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A lot of poly is aqueous printable and it’s that coating that makes it so easy to scuff. Look for one that is specifically made for latex and not aq.
For thick + waterproof maybe a synthetic display film? Aren’t those usually PE/PP/PET and latex/solvent specific? I just got a sample roll of Sihl...
I hate static cling and not just as a manufacturer but a consumer. Those stupid gym parking decals never stick. iDot or something like glass apeel/viziprint impress are what we use instead.
Side note running a variable data/numbering script through Photoshop will probably create a stupidly...
Just a fun project that I came across this morning while I was waiting for a long print run to finish.
Happy hump day ~
https://www.designboom.com/design/shiny-movie-ticket-punctured-seat-03-03-2020/
Every printer dreads files with rgb transparencies because they’re meant for screen view, not printed output. Usually the better route is to use a tint of a color instead.
Either save a rasterized version of the file to print from or export as a pdf x4 and run the “flatten transparencies”...
When we have small label jobs that need high resolution we print them digitally.
Digital cut sheet vinyl isn’t cheap (costs us about $1.50 per 12x18 sheet with a min order of 600 sheets) but considering how quickly you can print on a production copier as opposed to a wf printer (esp running at...
FatCat is right, the only way to do a custom perf is either with a flatbed or a die. It’s tricky to do on a flatbed on small jobs especially close to the edge like that but not impossible.
They also make “pre-converted” materials for digital printing depending on exactly what you’re looking...
That's what I usually do, and luckily Photoshop has gotten pretty good at enlarging images without too much tonal distortion.
I just didn't want to take the time to do that with all these images and then find out there was a much easier way to be going about things.
When enlarging files and maintaining resolution, is it best to do it with say, Photoshop, before moving the file into the RIP?
Or during the RIP printing process (i.e. while the file itself might be 100dpi I could print at 600dpi)?
In this particular case I have a bunch of 8x10in's @ 300dpi...
"i try to be professional but my inner mother fucker keeps slipping out"
saw it on one of my favorite illustrator/comic artists instagram and they've got a lot of other great stuff.
instagram.com/zeppelinmoon
Check out lexjet.com. They specialize in aqueous materials and equipment and while they might not always be the cheapest vendor they can be a great resource for figuring out out to use the equipment you already have.
For the price you paid for your current printer it’s probably worth the time...
We use some of their products for soft signage frames but I had no idea they made so much other stuff.
I just gave them a call and they were super helpful, Im glad you mentioned them because they're clearly an amazing resource.
Ha, truth, that's what Im trying to avoid.
We're right off the interstate so Im imagining a sheet of ACM flying into a car like a carving knife.
Im also using a matte lam specifically so we don't create a giant solar beam ray (Sid from Toy Story, anyone?).
So let's say I just give up on the...
Oh definitely unrealistic with numbers, no doubt about that haha.
This is whole thing is very...under the radar so to speak, at least until we get to the point where we have the money and time to put into redoing it correctly.
Before everyone comes out of the woodwork with replies about how absurd it is that people know so little about the industry their in etc etc, let me start off by saying that this is an internal project that we're trying to do ourselves because of a perfect storm of budget, timing, and a moronic...
We print on unmagnetized sheets all the time on our digital presses and one of our vendors, Lindenmeyr Munroe, has a commercial magnetizer at their local branch that we use to magnetize the finished pieces. They aren’t cheap or else we would buy one ourselves.
MagnumMagnetics sells a few...
I’ve bought that wrapping paper before and was confused why it was so easy to mar the printed image. Can i ask what printer/profile settings you’re using and if you encountered the same thing? Even the printed samples I’ve gotten can be easily scuffed with a light brush of your fingernail.
I’ve printed on HP universal bond on our 560 and it’s a pain in the ass. The paper is so thin that the vacuum pulls the paper into the ridges on the platten and you end up with noticeable lines of graininess on the finished print from where the paper was further away from the print head.
If...
It kind of is – it's a university. We've just never done something of this nature for them so Im trying to be careful with this bid so I can get more of their signage orders.
Right now Im planning on Drytac's SilkScape PP with their WindowTac adhesive...I haven't had great luck with papers on...
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