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I think it's safe to say that 60" wide is the largest common vinyl size.
Anything wider than that and you're looking at seams or going with some form of fabric/banner.
There are times where seams are inevitable and the customer just has to accept it.
Agreed. I've never understood laminating flatbed prints. If you want durable exterior prints, use vinyl and laminate.
Whatever's happening there is really odd, you can clearly see the reverse image. Were the double sided signs packed super tight and somehow transferred to the next sign?
That budget might rule out most quality brands.
Heat assist is nice to have, especially if you'll be laminating UV printed graphics.
Pressure/thickness etc I wouldn't really worry about as all laminators will essentially do the same thing. You'll probably be looking at manual pressure/gap...
Not the answer that you (or your client) want to hear, but if they don't take care of them, and techs can't be bothered to keep their dirty hands off the vinyl, I'd say that's on them.
Especially if you're using that material combo all the time and they're the only ones with issues.
Got any...
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
That all makes sense so far. For the pattern, just pen plot on paper? I guess as long as you're using the same file, all your hole locations will all correspond with the actual letters right?
Yep! It works really well. Instead of paying $5-10 a sqft for the mat rolls, we're paying under a dollar.
One thing I did find was that when routing PVC, the mdf dust gets embedded in the edges a bit and wasn't super ideal. Otherwise acrylic, ACM etc. all routes nicely on it. Just have to...
We've recently started using 3mm MDF for a spoil board and I'm really impressed with how well it works. Vacuum hold down is significantly higher than using the expensive cutting mats, and using sheets allows us to quickly get set up for routing and makes cleanup faster. (Using a Summa F1612)...
Love this trick and use it every day!
For the OP - sorry to answer your question with a question......... how do you make your patterns for those letters? When you're drilling 1/4" holes for studs, are you adding pads on those locations or tapping the holes manually after?
Been wanting to...
I'll take calendared removals any day... it's usually a breeze where as cast is an absolute nightmare. Recently stripped a tractor we did 10 years or so ago with 220 and it was a pain, even with a steamer.
We use 750 for a lot of things, but if I were doing exterior cut window graphics I'd go with Gerber 220. Not sure if you've dealt with ND Graphics out your way (or how close Dartmouth is to you for that matter) but they're great folks to deal with here in Winnipeg anyways. If you get a...
We don't use the cutting feature, at all. I ran away from Rasterlink as fast as I could as soon as I used it, we strictly use it as a printer and cut everything through Onyx cutserver on Summa cutters.
So they sent you the wrong ink? We have LUS-170 CMYKLcLm and LUS-200 WW, is that the set up...
Welcome from Winnipeg! Sounds like you've got a nice collection of equipment to start experimenting with.
Ask away - you'll find most members helpful with even the simplest questions as long as you put some effort into it, which you obviously have with your intro.
Best of luck with your...
1. What material (vinyl and laminate) did you use?
2. I wouldn't trust the average end user to install most decals properly, let alone a full rear windshield perforated decal. In the future I would make it clear (assuming you're actually using the right materials to begin with) that customer...
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