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Ya ya the good gloss lam with 180c for long term and we use 40c with 8509 for cheap shorter term golf course signs...I can never remember the lam numbers, thank god I can tell the rolls apart...

This place does Dye-Sub Trade Show backgrounds or by the sq/ft...but ive seen others https://www.backdropsource.ca/products/dye-sub-fabric-printing-12?variant=42543755657431 Looks like they can sew pole pockets etc. Ive seen others custom fabric ads on Instagram lately. Can also get Dye-Sub...

Can never get acp to a nice edge I like so I would leave 1/4" bleed, maybe try to get black acp for classy back side and/or wrap the vinyl neatly around/over the edges so I am less likely to cut myself. Lately I get most of my outdoor signs custom laser cut in 1/8" aluminum or 1/16" stainless...

On my VG3 I ditched Light Cyan/Magenta and went CMMYKkOG to get the Orange and Green but keep the Light k for nice neutral greys...Works great I need bright vibrant colors and non-tinted greys, I don't notice any lack of subtle tones without Light c/m....

I think mine might have been mak tac...was pretty cheap for 53" roll... Works fine. The only problem I had is it clung to the underside of my media clamps, accordioned and I just paused before it head struck... I have to print it on high headsetting with no media clamps, but it works fine.

I wont do magnets for vehicles anymore, they usually fall off or mess up the paint and always look tacky. I would do an interior "baby on board" style suction cup sign on the window or just print them a couple copies on something easily removable like 3M 40C vinyl before I use magnets.

Instead of making it a gradient blend you could try to make a blend of shapes all using their own RVW color... 24I looks purple but you get the idea, could be massaged a bit to work in a pinch if all else fails...

Guy called Doug Green is doing short Corel videos on Youtube... mostly for engraving but would help anyone trying to learn

Last Corel version fixed all little stability/speed problems I had with last couple ver, very happy at moment, we have used it for 99% of design with full custom hotkey setup since x7... have Adobe subscription to open Illustrator files and use photoshops new Generative Edit features...select...

With Roland Eco-sol I have laminated after 20-30 mins dry time or even had to help it dry with a heat gun then laminate to get something out the door and had no problems... The vinyl is still noticeably "gooier" with solvent in dark patches so its trickier to weed lettering but sometime you got...

Had a couple Royal Sovereign and they were ok but are very deep and had a second sets of rollers that could be a pain... This is our current Chinese "AUTO LAMINATOR" it works great...63" pneumatic roller pressure (came with compressor)...its set more vertical, takes up less space and has a...

On the VG2 with CMYKlclmlkO we just use "Generic Vinyl 1" to get the brightest reds but its not the same on VG3... I went with CMMYKlkOG inkset on my VG3 which I like but find it has the fewest available profiles... I found a 3M profile but it had problems printing nice black, then used Arlon...

I find Styrene or sintra get brittle and/or turns yellow over time in the sun and shatters on impact in the cold. Needs to be installed in a frame or with VHB tape as drilled holes usually crack after some heating and cooling. Not sure which would actually last longer outside...I find coro will...

Get a 54" Roland or other solvent printer...solvent inks only need laminate for long term out door or applying gloss/matte finishes.. Lots of cheap solvent compatible art canvas (and cheap used 54" printers) out there that needs no lam... First time Ive heard of laminating canvas with anything...

Its one of those things...kind of a PITA job that I could have finished in the time it took me trying to find a way around doing the job.

I would start to look at your profile and then check your Rendering Intent in Versaworks and try a few different ones and print small samples...see if you can get one that prints less saturated...one of the rendering intents might actually be called Saturation so you def dont want that one on...

I am pretty sure 3M does not recommend any graphics below the waterline...I believe this is something you/they would have to test on your own with no warranty...I have done plenty of boats in 3M 180 but usually stay pretty much above the line...some dip in a bit at the back but no real...

If money is no object you could install a 6mm sheet of ACM or outdoor plywood with lots of countersunk screws/bolts on each side as structure then VHB a nice sheet of 3mm ACM overtop with your graphics showing no visible screws at all. Note: assuing the VHB sign stays in place it will likely...

The only things helped by applying wet are stoneguard and translucent. Use air release vinyl for everything else...it is easier and saves more money being fast to install than other vinyls save being cheap. If you plan to keep your customers you might also want to use removable vinyl. It helps...

Why not?