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We never use a rubber wheel except as last resort on an old truck that already had bad paint...found the friction always messed with the finish of anything we tried it on... once we switched to 3M 180 it became less of a problem as it removes so well with just a heat gun. Use mostly varsol for...

Didnt say it didnt work well...its works too well so you cant leave it on too long...old school pinstripers use it all the time for taking One Shot painted pinstripes/graphics off truck and car paint...you basically just need gloves or it will burn your hands... mask off around the area, spray...

I doubt they would actually match...isn't the Real Gold one way more expensive?

"I can't tell you what I want but I know what I don't like if I see it, give me a few drawings..."

I have a pretty good knack for pulling cool shit off at the last minute but after 25+ years its running a bit thin. Be better soon when the golf course opens up...run my own mostly online shop so last couple years I work steady/late all winter and get up early to walk a round of golf with some...

Two words...Astral Projection, lol When time to do a quote my spirit leaves my body and flys around doing the job in another dimension while I watch from my mind palace and estimate how long it takes that fatass to complete the job. When done I return to my mortal coil with a gasp like the tail...

Try adding cleaner solution to your capping stations with syringe to see if they drain properly...should drain in a couple seconds...helps to give the sponges a gentle scrub with swab as well to get rid of any crust... Also if they are clogged or dirty the capping station wont be able to seal...

Blue dots have always meant I needed to clean the head...those dropped out jets might only be partially clogged or deflecting so they pool and drip rather than hitting the material like they are supposed to...the lines through the drip might even be a hair stuck to the head dragging through the...

Depends if the customer gave the tip freely...I have taken a surprise tip from a customer on a nice job but also seen an installer not so slyly suggest he could "take care" of a customer request if they "took care of him" for doing something he should have done anyway as part of his job...

The roll of material that typically comes with a new printer is only good for the tech to print tests while setting up the machine...it is super cheap, our tech even told us not to bother using it because it was so bad...I only kept it for them to use if they come back for service, it shrinks...

If those Epson prices are correct for the comparable 64" printers it would be a no brainer...but when I check the Epson Site it shows SureColor S40600 Print Cut Edition at $28,000+ and the SureColor S60600 at $31,000+ which makes it much different math...I have always used Rolands from Pro2 up...

Not sure what you mean by scratches....are you talking about the spotty white dots in the black section or the banding in the green? I had trouble getting a good black at first with some profiles...had small white spots in the black until I changed to one of Rolands own media profiles on good...

Yep Airmask works great...if left masked for a long time it can get a little hard to peel but it rolls and ships better than anything in paper premask without tenting. Will stretch a lil bit if required so its easy to conform/install on vehicles. Actually cheaper than the 3M premask where I get...

Depending on size I would cut that logo all in the grey and then replace the green and teal on the table and mask the whole thing...I dont want to be measuring and assembling complex graphics up a ladder or in the wind if possible...if you are not the installer its easy to think saving a little...

Honestly I don't put much stock in 3M warranties as it only covers the material if they can't find a way to get out of it. Using funky material like color change wrap material not specifically designed for printing is one way. I only trust materials and processes I have worked with myself and...

Injection molded plastics typically have some residue of the mold release chemical they use in manufacturing on the surfaces...it can usually be removed by quickly flame treating the surface with a torch to burn off the coating then using you typical thinners/prep solution. Should install fine...

Pretty sure Solvent is known to be better/longer lasting for vehicle graphics. We typically get 7+ year road life with Roland VG2 and VG3 on 3M 180 with gloss lam on trucks/cars/buses. Almost no smell but we still run a small exhaust fan right above machine. Always been interested in white ink...

Depends if the trailer has rivets and how long you want it to last...if it has rivets you need good cast vinyl...if it is perfectly flat and temporary you can get away with a good cheaper vinyl.

Yep, no way those get wrapped properly without seams and inlays...even the bodylines on a Sprinter van will come back up if you just heat/stretch the inner bends and those panels you show have much sharper bends. The guy in the ATV wrap video is doing it pretty well but I think I could get away...

I will not use Avery SW. I find it too thin and brittle. Also got to watch a nearby competitor replace the graphics on a 100 trailers worth of Red Reflective and black Avery graphics a few years ago. We use 3M 1080, 2080 or 180 on everything...its thicker, more conformable, easier to install and...