Search results

Just thought I'd follow up with this. The problem we're seeing is colors starting to shift when the ink cartridges get down to around 200mL. Replaced the ink and calibrated and everything was fine. Just sucks that I end up throwing out around 30% of a cartridge.

3500-4500!!!? Damn, I wish I was even getting 10% of that. These printheads have a little over 200 ml put through them.

I've been having this exact same issue with my 315. I've been through hours of diagnostics with HP and have printheads on the way, though they are now backordered, so who knows when I'll get them. This issue I've been having is yellow is printing at about 30%. Ran all kinds of tests and every...

Doesn't that, technically, implicate all vehicles, everywhere? That is, unless you've removed badges/markings advertising the make/model of the vehicle. There must be more to the code.

It depends on the size you are laminating. I've been using a manual 39" eBay laminator for a year and have put quite a bit of material through it and never had a problem. I would think something similar would be just fine, especially for a one off job.

SignWarehouse has a desktop solvent printer with fluorescent inks. PrismJet VJ 24x. No idea on quality, but I looked at this as an option when I was looking for a printer for heat transfer vinyl.

Why not just do a perforation cut after the contour cut?

I've been running Dell Ultrasharp 24 monitors (U2415) for over a year now and love them. They are 16:10 and come pre-calibrated. You can get them for around $250, so they're tough to beat from a bang for the buck standpoint.

I wouldn't recommend using latex. Yes, you can physically print on it. The prints come out thick and very plastic feeling. I would stick with solvent or ecosolvent as the print penetrates the vinyl and doesn't simply lay on top like with latex.

Looks like it is a custom logo. The "E's" look close to Trajan Pro, but the middle is modified. The T's look the same. The R looks similar, but is modified. Trajan Pro - Desktop font « MyFonts

Figured it out after playing around for a while. You have to select "User" for style on the cutter. I set up custom style called "User 1" and was able to dial in the settings from there.

So, I've been contour cutting and perf cutting some new prints. Everything cuts fine until I get to the perf cut. Within Cutting Master 3, I select "Software Perforation" and "Style 7". As soon as I send the job, the software switches it to "Style 5". No matter what style I select in the...

Have you found that using a 60* blade is better for perf cutting as well, or would the 45* work fine?

So, quick background. I've been making small cut decals using Oracal 751. I really like how thin and weedable the material is. I often make customized window decals with letters around 1" tall. I have a HP L315 and have been playing around with a 3M IJ180 / 8518 combination and really do not...