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Yes L26500. Sorry, probably should have mentioned that. Yes using onboard i1. I've been pushing for a separate unit, but they don't want to drop the $1,200 for it. (Although one decent job would more than pay for it..) I don't think it's a printhead. I just replaced a black and the other...

I haven't created very many profiles, but I've never had this happen. The other swatches printed just fine, not sure why this one seems to be overprinted with grey..

I had the same problem with a roll of static cling from Summa, called them up and they said it needs to be used in 6 months or less. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and a micro fiber and it worked just fine. Just make sure you clean the entire print area.

I'm sure this has been posted somewhere here before, but I didn't see it in this thread: http://nojpeg.org/

Like everyone said, use a lubricant (foaming glass cleaner, windex, soapy water, etc.) and a stainless steel razor blade. Make sure to clean the glass before you scrape it, the stainless steel blade won't scratch the glass but dirt sure will. 99% of the time the tint will be on the inside of...

What Chicago said, ONLY use Stainless Steel blades on glass. Carbon steel blades WILL scratch/cut the glass. If you have a heavy hand or hold your knife at a steep angle then Stainless Steel can scratch/cut the glass (just keep knife below 30° and take it easy on the pressure). What do you...

To me it looks very much like an offset issue. The only time I've seen a dragknife cutter leave those little tabs on corners and not finish cuts like on that O is when the offset is incorrect for the blade. What degree blade did you replace it with? The latest Summa Cutter Blade Guide says...

+1 for magnets and a heat gun. I like the Geek Wraps Power Slam magnets, but they're expensive. I would recommend something like this instead of a pair of scissors though. It fits in your pocket and won't gouge the paint if you accidentally rub against it when cutting the backing.

Exactly what Crabby said. Tangential is better for small stuff, you'll get less hangups on corners and such, but you'll probably never notice a difference on anything bigger than a few inches. They are quite a bit slower than drag knife, but worth the extra time in my opinion.

Correct, you'll need to hook up two cables. One goes to your mobo the other from your power supply.

Hopefully someone can help me, this is driving me nuts and taking a lot of cutter time. I'm trying to print and cut 10,000 1.5"x3" stickers (L26500 print and Summa S140T cut) in batches of 500. Print is fine, sending file to cutter is fine, but cutting is slow going. It feeds out 6 or 7 feet...

The Summa DC5sx is another option. CMYK + White + about 25 spot color options. Although if you're doing mostly/all process prints then it's not a great option (low DPI, banding, very slow when doing process colors, very expensive ribbons).

I'll see if I have a spot color print around here somewhere and I'll try to take some good pics of the pass lines.

Exactly. And I've read stories of people sending samples like this to Summa and they respond with something like "these pass lines are considered acceptable, stand back 10 feet and you can't even see them."

If you plan to only use the Summa for decals using spot colors I would highly recommend it. The pass line on spot colors is barely noticeable (usually). But if you plan on doing large prints with process colors I would steer clear. It is incredibly hard to get a good, multi-pass, process...

Be careful what kind of scraper you get. Some of those 4" scrapers have thicker, harder blades that can scratch the glass. If they're floor to ceiling business windows then they're probably tempered so you should be ok, but if they just regular annealed glass then I'd recommend something like...

FrankW gave a very good explanation of it's capabilities. Just keep in mind that , as you said, the consumables are very expensive. One ribbon (according to Summa) will print 369 square feet, 100% coverage (White spot a bit less) and run from $159 to $249 ($349 for the Rose Holographic) +...

Could give automotive tint and paint protection (clear bra) a shot. It's also slower in the winter time, but maybe both together will keep you busy.

Yes it can be done, but depending on what type of film you're using it can be tricky/impossible. If you're using a film with Pressure Sensitive adhesive you can do it much like a wet vinyl install. Transfer tape it (paper), add a few drops of baby soap or Dawn in a 32 oz squirt bottle...

You're my hero. Couldn't for the life of me find this.