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I don't know for sure, but I would think it's fine. I'm sure most vinyl reaches freezing temperatures during shipping, not a lot of semi trailers have heaters. I couldn't find Oracals recommended storage temp but 3M says between 4-38° C storage temperature, but that probably means months, not...

I opened up a 32" and 18" box of 4075RLA around October and didn't have any problems. Maybe you got some old stock that wasn't rotated properly..

Are you actually using the power button to shut it down, or letting it go to sleep by itself? If I'm not mistaken you're not supposed to shut them off completely for extended periods of time, but let them sleep as long as you want. Maybe it's turning itself on to clean the printheads/cycle ink...

We've had a DC 4 for a few years and I wouldn't recommend it. The consumables are expensive, it's extremely slow, very sensitive to the type of media you use and the slightest imperfections in it's surface, low resolution, it's very hard to get a decent looking CMYK print (virtually always...

Chrome is definitely hard to work with. There's very little stretch and once you stretch it too much it whitens and it's toast, you can't hit it with a heat gun and start over. I'm not sure that you'll be able to do the front bumper on a Sky in one piece, they're pretty damn rounded. Since...

Same way with Llumar. If I ever have an issue I can call my rep (who will answer day or night) and get it resolved the same day. I've used a fair amount of 8508 but never had any issues like this. Some shrinkage, sure, but never that amount. I hope you get it resolved.

This sounds like a terrible idea. How would you avoid getting bubbles in your laminate when you're trying to laminate on a textured surface? And how would you avoid popping said bubbles when you heated and rolled it? It sounds like the person you talked to was misinformed..

From what I've been told the rollers are expensive and hard to replace, so it's usually better to replace the entire machine (maybe not on a $15k Royal Sovereign, but most less-expensive machines).

With a cut that size it will leave an air channel, no doubt. Bubbles in the lam, just like installed vinyl, will eventually go away, but in my opinion it's not worth explaining to every customer that you swear it will go away over time. If that were the bottom roller you'd probably be able to...

We usually let the customer know the issue and, if they want to continue, that there is absolutely no warranty or guarantee that the film will stay down in that area. Then primer the hell out of it and hope for the best.

We started out as a tint and PPF shop and added vinyl and then later print graphics. Like many people have said it can be good money, but it's not really something you can pick up quickly or easily. PPF is definitely easier than tint to learn and generally more money. Like somebody mentioned...

We once had a customer who didn't want to pay for removal on the bed of his truck (the vinyl wasn't this bad, but bad) so he said he would "remove it himself". After getting frustrated trying to peel the vinyl off, he literally tried to burn it all off with a torch (ruining what was left of his...

I think it looks great. The only problem I see is that the font in the "Services Offered" page is a bit hard to read, it's really thin. If you switched it over to the font/size used in "About Us" I think it would read better. Or maybe my monitor just stucks..

We did a few vehicles and trailers with our DC4 when we were first getting into wraps. 1. We used IJ180cv3 with Scratchguard and no lam (unfortunately). 2. I would highly advise using lam and not Scratchguard. Scratchguard cracks and flakes off at the slightest stretch of the material...

I know our window film manufacturer (and many others) is pretty adamant on avoiding products that contain lanolin because it "will greatly reduce bond strength". Not sure if that pertains to all PS adhesive or just the specific adhesive used in window films.

Orajet 3954, looks like the film is even more expensive than 3Ms, but they say you can use 290 to laminate so it ends up a cheaper than 3M 8624/8524. I'm not sure I like the fact that they don't have a specific lam for it though...

In Onyx with my L26500 you can right click the printer>Configure Printer>Media>select media>Options (on the right)>uncheck Cutter. Can't remember if there's a way to disable it for all media or if you have to do it individually...

PM sent.

Can you just delete the invisible objects? Ctrl + F for the Find Wizard > go to the Fills tab > check the No Fills box > Next > Finish > Find All then delete? Edit: Or if other, needed objects have no fill then you can do the same with No Outline, or both.

If his windows already had factory tint on them then this would probably drop the light transmission down to somewhere around 12-14%, but still within the "enforcement tolerance of nine percent".