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Go for the Mimaki, I don't own one but a close friend I trust has it, it's a work horse. I run 3 Mutoh 1624 they are awesome. I do also have a latex 26500, I prefer the Mutoh over the Latex, lot of time wasted heating up and cooling down, too much electricity and maintenace cost

Hi Tom, we use NATURA for best quality as well as other backlit PET film from a Chinese supplier for short term.

It works fine as an entry level, I used one for than 5 years and it was great for short runs and not for full roll to roll, also the pressure applied isn't good enough, some silvering occurs. Now I switched to a reconditioned Orca3.

We use 3 printers HP Z6100, much much more better quality than our Latex L26500 and Mutoh 1624, outstanding quality very fast and the durability of pigmented ink is excellent indoors and outdoors.

It seems that printhead is missing allot of nozzels, run one or two cleaning cycles then print a test nozzle

JFX500-2131 Capsule Filter - MAC-C-A100-7 - Spare Parts

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I'm using Wasatch for my Mutoh 1624 (4C) (which is almost like the GS) and HP Z6100 (8C) and Caldera for Latex26500 (6C) I made some custom profiles for the Z to use only 4 colors instead of 8, that is very easy on Wasatch as long as you have Xrite i1 spectrophotometer. Theoritically and RIP is...

I get all my spare parts from www.digiprintsupplies.com from Belgium

I did and they never sent the printhead and never replied to my mails. I have even filed a complain with Indonesian commerce authoroties and they did nothing. I should have known better that it's too good to be true.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I never expecpet it to be printhead.

Increasing passes will definitely enhance banding present in Black text. Since ink isn’t laid down correctly, it’s a problem with media (moisture), fine ink droplets are gathered together to form larger dots which makes it look that way because the media doesn’t have the ability to hold that...

I think profiles for 1624 would work well or with some fine tuning on 1624x ICC profiles - Graphic Innovations

You are correct, the ink didn't dry out mostly because of media contamination, assuming that drying and curing temperature are ok. You can overcome banding by switching to unidirectional printing or increase the number of passes.

I do have original Mutoh smart cards that I get with UMS ink, I have lots of extra crads, what's your model ?

www.digiprintsupplies.com I have been dealing with them for long.

I totally agree with Roto, it is very common when using standard media feed system, we switched to swing arm feeder and take up to apply uniform tension on the media which hepls much in reducing tunneling specially on long print runs.

Remove ink carts and check for ink leakage, it might have leaked and caused a short circuit.

This is very common with Flexi, it doesn't render vectors well. Better switch to another solid RIP like Wasatach. For the time being your only solution is to rasterize the file using photoshop and print as TIFF

Don't buy any Chinese Eco Solvent printer, I made this mistake once with a very well know Chinese brand and it wasn't reliable at all, any used Mutoh, Roland or Mimaki is much much more better