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I use Postershop.

not necessarily, you can name it whatever you want as long as you also change the setting in the RIP. I've got my white set as epsonWHITE in illustrator, and I just told onyx that Spot1 corresponded to epsonWHITE.

follow the epson guide to the letter, and it should work fine. At least, it did for me. Granted, I'm using onyx postershop, so I don't know what differences there are between the two packages. http://download.epson-europe.com/pub/download/6029/epson602962eu.pdf

Glad to know it's not just me! I tried connecting direct to USB, but couldn't get my computer to even recognize the printer. That was a couple months ago, haven't had the time to try again recently.

you and me both. I've got an S80600 that I'd prefer to always print at 1440x1440, overkill or not. I know our customers, and if they can see any evidence it was printed they'll throw a fit! Thankfully, it's been an amazing machine so far, and blows our old Rolands out of the water.

I never get shocks with the tack cloths as I'm laminating, but I'd assume they create a little static since anything moving on a surface will create static to an extent. I used to get shocked like crazy using microfiber cloths on materials on our table that's got a self healing mat on it...

If the ink is dry enough to laminate, it's dry enough to wipe a tack cloth over. They're not abrasive at all.

that looks like it has potential. It's a pretty flat surface.

indoor. Not too worried about lifespan, it'll almost certainly be on for less than a year.

Extra laminating is something I'm trying to avoid. I experimented with laminating some SV480 to 1080, and it works, but isn't worth the time and labor.

It's got to go around buttons and and switches and junk, so the holes have to be completely open. And the client has to apply them, not me, or I'd go a totally different route.

Removable with heat, no chemicals. Ideally with no residue left behind.

I'm looking for a removable material that's eco-sol printable, similar to like 3M ij180mc-UR, but it needs to be way more rigid. I've got a job where I need to print full color graphics, cut a honeycomb type pattern out of it, and apply to a part. The standard vinyls I've got are way too...

Gerson tack cloths from the body shop. We use them in our paint shop, so there's always a plentiful supply of them. They seem to do a pretty good job of getting almost everything out. I wipe them across right in front of the rollers as I'm running material through.

Not at all true. The Summa tangential knives can create flawless circles, that's the whole point of tangential knives. I've got 2 T75's here, and they cut great. It takes a little playing to find the right speed and cut pressure for the materials, and trying out different angled blades can...

We do a lot of customized consumer electronics. Sometimes directly on parts, sometimes on our paint and under a clearcoat, and sometimes directly on top of that clearcoat. Many of our clients are extremely picky about the quality of the prints on those products, to the point that they've...

I'm looking for suggestions on the best UV printer on the market to replace our Roland LEF-12. Speed isn't an issue for us, so don't base suggestions on that, we want the absolute best image quality possible, with the widest gamut possible. I've started looking at the Mimaki UJF6042 Mk ii, but...

It's definitely printing white. Just not as much as I need. I'm sure it's possible the printer+software combo can't put down that much white the way I need it to. I'm basically getting 2 layers of white (I think), when I need about 4. On our rolands I would have set it to print white, let it...

I hadn't, no. Going through those settings still doesn't give me enough white to keep the color of the part from shifting the print.

I suppose I should have clarified that response. Multi strike in the settings on the printer hits every color that number of times, correct? How can I just have it do the white extra times so the color doesn't shift?