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Most of the time no, they can request a specific material and we'll try to get it even if it is outside of our usual stock but for vinyl I don't think we've ever let someone bring in media aside from our contract installers who know what they need to bring. The rare times we do accept it from...

We have a different mimaki so I'm not positive if yours will let you do this, but what you are trying to do is "composite printing". If you save multiple copies of your file (one with all the colors, then one with just the orange) you can composite the files together into one print within...

I'd say the business name is the highest priority, even with "Count on Us!" the majority are just going to look up it up online, not call directly - millennial (don't worry though, we'll never be able to afford houses either)

Could also be the print itself. we've had this issue on hardhat decals before (lots of little circles tiled up on a sheet) take a ruler and measure the exact distance between the registration marks on your print, then compare to the file. Sometimes the printer will skew/stretch the print and...

reflective vinyl can mess with the way the sensor reads registration marks, if it is only happening on that material it might be worth printing some extra reg marks on plain white stock and applying them to your print before trying to register it.

Inclined to agree with others than the cleaner looks are better, but if they are set on a full wrap rather than cut vinyl maybe try to incorporate one of the colors from their logo and knock the trees into the background a bit so there is more focus on the roof itself? (pls forgive the very bad...

What letter bending system do you have? Is it all custom coil or are you using a specific brand? CA glue works if you're bonding plastic to plastic but it's not a good idea for plastic to aluminum because the materials expand/contrast at different rates. I mentioned Lord adhesive on your other...

We use Lord adhesive for bonding acrylic to aluminum but I'm not sure how clean the application would be in this case. Side note - with your previous fabrication method, if you wanted opaque sides and an illuminated face, you could just paint the returns (black to block the light, then whatever...

looks like Yellowtail

On the one hand, we rarely get good photos of our work once it leaves the shop - and Photoshop's Ai tools have been an amazing help to speed up edits. But at least right now, you still need a designer (or someone who gives a shit) to be using it. It's a tool, like anything else there are limits...

How large are the prints? for smaller things - Vinyl method as StarSign mentioned above for larger prints you can back-paint them white, but if you are outsourcing your print this is more risky because some inks react to some paints If it is really large we laminate with ACM and stud-mount / use...

Wait you get good quality off your boss? Ours is the worst machine we've ever bought, and their support is non existent, every time we've asked for help they quoted us the initial training and travel fee again.

good god this one was a pain to match Zenaida

Illustrator for 95% of layout + Flexidesign for braille & automated sign content. We use Photoshop and Indesign as well depending on the project but most of our work is very custom so we need the freedom & vector graphics that Illustrator provides.

We've used the George & Willy blade sign blanks before on a job (client already planned to buy from them, just asked us to add the vinyl & install) These were unlit blade blanks, and the product is nice honestly. I'm on the design side so, of course, I have a bias towards custom builds, but for...

Most situations it's the building owner that would be held responsible, not the sign company that produced the product. The owner could turn around and come after the sign vendor, but you can cover yourself pretty easily by having proof in writing that they agreed to non-compliant signage. We do...

Cool, I'll have to get a test run with clear to compare the pros/cons. We've had similar issues with thicker white acrylic (used 1" white for a push through earlier this year, looked great in daylight but the light definitely had issues getting all the way through on narrower sections)

I've seen a few signs built like that in the wild but haven't gotten to see the inside guts to figure out how they work (I had thought it was just translucent white vinyl on the inside of the clear) Are you gluing the clear push through letters to the poly carb or are they just stacked inside...

Yeah that's honestly why I'm curious - we use 7328 universally but we do have some light drop off on the front edges for push-through (though that might be unavoidable)

Cool, we've always use 7328 as our default for lit signs, if you happen to have any comparison images I'd love to see them (just genuinely curious if there is a better option)