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How did you bleed the line of air? The reason I ask is that if you took apart the head carriage, chances are the print head is now slanted and won't mate to the capping station. To check, pull the carriage away from the cap station, and look at it directly from the front. The bottom of the head...

Where do you get that from? I've seen latex (and SEPIAX) prints that were completely wet to the touch when they came off, and were completely cured a few days later just by sitting at ambient temperatures. I've also seen dripping wet solvent prints cure after sitting out for a while. Even...

Honestly, you could probably install a laminated vehicle wrap even if it hasn't fully cured under the laminate. The heat from the installation process would probably finish curing the ink as it's going on the vehicle.

You should post this as a new topic, not a reply to a completely different thread. Click the "New Topic" button at the top of the page...

Mutoh printers can sometimes throw the "wrong" error for the right reasons. It just depends what part of its internal programming the printer is running when the error condition occurs. Y encoder errors can be directly related to Y overcurrent (servo motor overload) errors. Sometimes either...

Just wondering what the general feedback on printing fabric has been with the larger HP Scitex latex printers such as the LX600, LX800 and LX850. My company has an LX850, and we ran some relatively low-coverage prints on a thin fabric that worked beautifully when backlit. However, when we...

A greasy feel means that the polymers in the ink haven't fully cured, as has basically been said before. Now, there are a few ways around this: - Slow the printer down / increase the cure temp - Laminate and wait (24-48 hours) for the ink to finish curing on its own - Try a different profile or...

You can still buy Epson 10000 heads from any Epson dealer, provided that you give them the serial number of your machine. I believe they will limit the total number of heads you can purchase in a given year, but even if you need to replace all the heads, there are only 3 in the machine. The part...

If you find a RIP that nobody will ever complain about (ever), I'll eat the hat that chihuahua is wearing.

Most Epson printers had the head ranks set using a special service utility. I'm not sure if the one for the Epson 10000 is still available, but you may be able to check with an independent Epson dealer to find out. I discovered there are only a limited number of head ranks for those heads...

Actually, that may be an original Mimaki part. The damper upgrade kit for the JV3-SP printers included tall style dampers with those fittings. You can actually get aftermarket dampers with the correct size fittings that eliminate the need for those extension pieces. Here's an example...

That's usually a profile issue. If the profile was created on a material with an off-white point, it may be trying to adjust the white point of the material by placing the dots you're seeing.

The best part of the L&P derived machines is their linear X-Y motion system. It's practically bulletproof. It will also try very hard to kill you when it gets out of control :P ACUV out of Florida is working on an upgrade kit for the older L&P machines that brings them up to current technology...

Chances are you're using a profile that runs in a resolution not supported by your printer. I hear that 1440x1440 usually does not run correctly on those machines; the maximum usable res is 720x1440 (or 1440x720, can't quite remember which).

I'd still hesitate about using Simple Green, but at least checking the MSDS sheet it doesn't have as much nasty crap as Windex. The ammonia and other solvents in Windex means all sorts of trouble for most water based inks.

Ouch. Who told you to use Windex? That's one of the worst things to soak an Epson head in.

Check your PF encoder scale (the clear plastic wheel located inside the left-hand end cover). Chances are there's either a large piece of dust, some ink, or a scratch on it. The scale can be cleaned using a lint-free polyester wipe and some rubbing alcohol, the same way you would clean the...

I didn't realize there was a VJ-1608 made without the heated air system. @JVR Do you see any white crystalline buildup on the nozzle plate? If you do, you will probably need a new head installed during the conversion. I would suggest having a tech do the conversion.

The printer will determine the media width, but you still have to manually set the width into Wasatch for the auto-center feature to work properly. The printer's design puts about a 5mm margin on the right edge of the media, and sometimes less than that on the other side.

Although the interface still leaves a little to be desired, I think Caldera's interface is far more intuitive than Onyx. Color management and ICC profiling is about on par with what I'm used to (I formerly used ProfileMaker and i1Profiler; Caldera is now using the i1Prism engine as of v9, which...