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If you still need this, PM me and I can get you a copy. Took a bit, but found a copy for one I was fixing up.

Ok, time to knock these out. Gloss/Matte selectability is a great reason to add clear to color set. UV ink in general is good for metallics Losing Lc/Lm will result in a slight loss of color gamut, yes. Clear ink is ink without pigment, less likely to clog, especially compared to white ink. Not...

If you got room, snag a Mimaki jfx200 on the used market. Though, they have a bit of a footprint. For smaller, but still fast units, the UJF-6042 Mkii is pretty nice. 4 industrial 2 channel heads.

Yup, gonna need a keyboard for this one.

If you bought a Xante, I am sorry. Heads can last longer if treated well and probably to use fresh US made ink (less time in hot shipping environments, the better). Just make sure the ink is rated for an XP600 head. If getting heads, get them from Digiprint, they're WAY cheaper. Same with all of...

If I can ever find a dang JFX200 that is actually dead, I want to put a new set of controllers in it to try the Kyocera heads. But the stupid things keep being easy fixes.

CJV is a bit of a fossil these days and cut/print units are dog slow. If going for new, probably much better off going for the CJV330 instead. Still, I would highly recommend a standalone vinyl cutter if doing serious volume of cutting.

Ricoh Gen5/Gen6 heads are some of the best I have messed with when it comes to UV, followed by Kyocera and Toshiba.

Also, having your printer output type set to File means it just pretends the printer is there and generates print files. Needs to be USB or ethernet to actually do anything.

Keep the machine on (powered, can go to sleep) and in a good climate-controlled space. Essential for most printers to keep inks from going to hell and clogging up. Most issues I see related to ink are ink-related, but due to lack of maintenance.

The clients are the ones you're selling to, get their feedback. The heads on the UCJV300 are industrial heads, each channel is only 150DPI (since Mimaki uses a 4 channel Gen5 instead of the more common 2 channel 300DPI type). The higher DPI is done with scanning, so not as ideal as a newer type...

Section 4.2 will go through the calibration process/adjustments.

Head voltage is best left alone. Have a service manual to help check calibration? Might be a stagger issue.

Can also try tensioning the roll using the take-up roller to make it lie nice and flat. Either media is moving, or nozzles are missing if I were to guess.

Is your vacuum force set to high? If things start off good, the media might not be lying flat. On the quality page about 2/3 down is the setting to change vacuum.

Print a nozzle check? Clear ink can do weird things and get a bit foamy and fire weirdly. I think you can also try gloss at 1200x1200 DPI (that might not work, since I am using modded firmware, not sure if it is supported on regular firmware). Also, what firmware are you using?

If the board won't communicate, replacing the EPL3 is the recommendation. If swapping the board to a used printer of another model, it will need to be loaded with a generic firmware, moved to the printer to be repaired, and then have the parameters and model specific firmware transferred to it...

Will get an ink supply code that will stop printing if that is the case.

If things are clogged, will show up in nozzle check, worth checking of course. Since the printer uses subtanks, they are less prone to clogging/wearing out, but they can have other issues. Line issues mean you'd be getting errors on the printer as the subtanks have float level sensors in them.

What's your media compensation test look like and what head gap are you using?