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What can I say, it works, and it's consistent. on that printer anyway. From the Roland to the Epson - that's another story. 20 passes?! just HOW is that better than using a generic profile? Just point me in the direction of that ice cave - triple digits all week here, it's fricken hot.

This idea had me so fascinated I had to try it. Printing on a couple of sheets of 1/16" polycarbonate, after cleaning the first sheet, I went to move it over to the printer input table, and got shocked all to hell. Then I remembered the magnet trick, went and grabbed a couple of wrap magnets...

Just to get the ball rolling - so others will chime in and tell you how wrong I am ( :p )... We have an XR 640, and since I've been here (7 years) we always use the same profile for everything on that printer (RIP is VersaWorks). The profile we use is MPP-SG Photo SemiGloss Paper - Regardless of...

Everything is on the internet :supersmilie:

This one? https://usscfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/USSCF-Sign-Legibility-Impact-of-Color-Illumination-2018.pdf

is it this? https://files.secure.website/wscfus/7691102/uploads/USSC_Sign_Legibility_Rules_of_Thumb.pdf

Is the goal to make the letters thicker? Edit - or just 6mm thick period? if this is the Case - then what The Vector Dr. suggested. ...when I first read the OP, I thought you wanted them thicker than what they currently are.

yes, that's why I suggested adding a 6mm stroke to the graphic (assuming it's already vector), and expanding it. Well, depending on your illustrating and drawing skills :) The Doctor could probably do it in about 3 minutes :p

Or... change the stroke units to mm, add an stroke of 6mm set to the outside of the object, and then expand it so it's not a stroke anymore then unite so it's all the same object.

Did they come get it?

Fancy electro anti static gadgets don't seem to work for me. I get static electrocuted on a regular basis. My nemesis is sheets of HIPS, polystyrene. On a day when I have to print a lot, like 20+ sheets... Static shock all day long. doesn't help when the tables are metal... But I adjust.

I'll give you 3 guesses....

I always used 4imprints. They would send me a goody box of stuff every month. I still have dozens of tote bags and other random things with the 4imprint logo.

in my past life... working for a wholesale mail order company... we used to always put tootsie rolls & jolly ranchers in orders. New customers would get a little packet which included a branded bic pen, a 6" ruler and some tootsie rolls and jolly ranchers. I ordered the supplies, and at least 3...

Hmm, we have a summa, I have no issue cutting clear vinyl. Not sure why it would make a difference if the liner is white. Sounds like a different issue, like a glitch. I realize this sounds basic, but have you tried turning it off for a beat? Our summa occasionally gets "stupid" and power off...

I find they are slow when the project is outside their wheelhouse. Fine with smaller signs, like A-frames etc, but when it comes to vehicle graphics, or window graphics.... they don't know what they are doing and they take forever to supply the creative.

I knew what you meant.

....revisiting the print the fine light circle/outline plan. If the OP is using onyx, I understand the conundrum with the registration marks. So, just print, Measure from edge to edge of that fine circle to find the center.

A little like dealing with the post office. except... there is no alternative.