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More of a long scraping noise. THANKS for all of the input, now I have some ideas of where to look.

Thanks, I'll look at that. No, this sounds like a metal to metal scraping sound, it has been intermittent but lately it has been more frequent and seems to be getting louder. Only when the carriage moves left and right.

I have an old Roland SP300. It has been a work horse for 16 years! Even tho it's been mostly part time and now semi retirement work it's still amazing. The issue that I'm have is when the print head carriage is moving left and right it is making an intermittent scraping noise. I have checked...

Thanks everyone! I printed a few and they seem fine. Now it will be back to the "Old School" of mounting without any air egress. Wrinkle city here I come!;)

I have some temporary outdoor 18 x 24 corr signs to do. Unfortunately I wasn't paying attention and don't have enough printable vinyl. Supplier is out of stock. Anyone's thoughts on using regular white vinyl ( ie Orical 651 ) to print on? These probably won't b up for more than a few weeks.

Thanks for the responses. I was planning on using the thinnest I can get for the red, maybe Orical 851 - 3M-? Not sure what would be best yet. I believe that 2 mil is the thinnest available. Correct me if I'm wrong. The gold from Real Gold in Fla is the thinnest Gold leaf I think.

I have a customer that wants to put SignGold with a red vinyl outline on a 28' custom Mahogany race boat. The normal procedure is to use real gold leaf with painted outline. The boat gets about 5-7 coats of varnish before the lettering is applied. Then it gets 6 - 8 more coats of varnish...

Aurora Print Craft 2 has gold leaf fills. Never heard of anyone printing holographic colors.

SO, back on topic. If you did several layouts for a customer and they didn't do the project with you do you charge for your time for doing layouts? I find it hard to charge "up front" before any work is done just in case someone blows you off after doing layouts. BUT many sign companies do...

That's too funny... maybe after a years work that thing might actually move.

Too funny...:roflmao:

Was the print a full bleed? You said it was laminated very soon after printing. I have had curling when doing a full bleed ( or close to full bleed ) and then contour cutting too soon. Typically I like to let the print dry 12 - 24 hours. The ink drying close to the edge of the print will...

One of the first things that we were taught in sign painting school was NEVER EVER use a level OR measure from the ground to letter a vehicle. Most commercial vehicles have heavy duty suspensions and are nowhere near level. I have always measured from body lines and looked at it by eye to...

It is possible to print one side cut it with a little extra material at the end, flip the banner and print the back. I do that all the time with my little 30" SP300. Just making sure that you start the banner from the same spot on both sides, I run the banner to the edge of the feed table for a...

I agree about reprinting on anything permanent. I would only touch up something temporary, like a one day event corrugated sign or banner that won't be seen too closely.

WOW. Hey Cleatus , I needs me a new sign, here u kin use my spankin new rubber ruler! :eek:

OK, thanks for the info. I ended up with a Signs 101 merchant who has helped me in the past. Solventinkjet had the 220 size that I needed at a few dollars less than I was paying. I decided long ago to stick with OEM inks to steer clear of any clogging issues.

I have also printed a square of the color I need to repair and cut a thin strip to cover a scratch. You can also use a Sharpie to color the white edge to make it less visible.

I recently lost my supplier for ink due to that they are only going to sell the 440 ml size of Eco-Sol inks for my Raland SP300. Due to space limitations the 440 size stick out way too far and I'm afraid that I'll hit them and damage something. I have to squeeze past them all the time to...

Cut, Cut, Cut, so easy to do, why wouldn't you do it?