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10x40 foot banner....what matieral

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
I have to install hundreds of 10x40' banners and I really need to find the right matieral. The banners are fastened directly to r panel buildings. The existing banners are installed nearly perfectly flat. They feel like they are slightly stretchy. The scrim does not feel fine like a flex face and I'm wondering what type of matieral it is? I tried 13oz and 18oz regular banner matieral but it's pretty hard to get all the wrinkles out of. Is there a special banner matieral that is good for this type of install? Is there a good method to installing one of these behemoths? These are installed without banner frames and client does not want them... I'm just trying to reproduce what is already there.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
Is it a solid scrim material or mesh? Mush has a tiny bit of spring in it.

Do you have photos of the existing install?
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Is it a solid scrim material or mesh? Mush has a tiny bit of spring in it.

Do you have photos of the existing install?

It's solid..no mesh. Mesh would of been easy. Here is a photo. The entire banner is perfectly flat like a well stretched flex face... but the screws don't even look perfectly straight in a line on this install.

truck.jpg
 
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Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
We used 20oz double sided material. I have some here I can send you to look at.
All those holes in the panels for a banner! Painful
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Are you sure they were installed flat, or did the 'sun take out' the wrinkles over a couple of weeks? Definitely want to be certain it will work before ordering a couple hundred.
It's crazy, but even our billboards from Kramer shrink up a bit and take a lot of little sags and buckles out of the face. As long as a squirrel doesn't make it's home in one...

Honestly that is what I'm thinking. I did two of these banners last week at test stores but unfortunately both of them are 8 hours away. Might get one of the employees to take a picture of it next month.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
This is one I did... and there were no big poofy obvious wrinkles, but you can see from this side shot that there are real small ones that are visible from the side. The top image REALLY exaggerats the visibility of the wrinkles. The image below is how it looks normally.. You can't see the wrinkles until you are at an angle

print.jpg


From the front it's not bad...


Untitled.jpg
 
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CanuckSigns

Active Member
What if you used the Lind sign springs? You can purchase just the springs, screw them into the wall and hook them through the banner, it would make the install quick, easy and perfectly flat.
 

dale911

President
I have installed banners like this before. I start at the middle and tightly mount each grommet, stretching it as far as I could. Do the top first working out from the middle. Then start at the middle bottom and work outward, pulling down and out. When you get to the end, start at the middle and work out to the corners. You may have to go back across the bottom and move screws to get it right but usually, you will be fine. Glad I’m not doing installs anymore. These always took longer than I expected and were hard to deal with.

Also, when I installed them, I found center first, the measured out to the. Ext 2 grommet holes. I put hooks where the next grommets “should go” on each side and used them to hang the banner so I didn’t have to deal with the weight , I’m or it flapping in the wind. You can set the bottom center if you want to help it keep from moving. Keeping the weight off the space you are working with helps in stretching it.

There will still be a few little wrinkles in it but they will bake out with a little heat from the sun. This one was 12’x40’ on block. Has to drill holes and set anchors for each one.
97e9b1982eb4af6789dd31ab1d386b19.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Tha
I have installed banners like this before. I start at the middle and tightly mount each grommet, stretching it as far as I could. Do the top first working out from the middle. Then start at the middle bottom and work outward, pulling down and out. When you get to the end, start at the middle and work out to the corners. You may have to go back across the bottom and move screws to get it right but usually, you will be fine. Glad I’m not doing installs anymore. These always took longer than I expected and were hard to deal with.

Also, when I installed them, I found center first, the measured out to the. Ext 2 grommet holes. I put hooks where the next grommets “should go” on each side and used them to hang the banner so I didn’t have to deal with the weight , I’m or it flapping in the wind. You can set the bottom center if you want to help it keep from moving. Keeping the weight off the space you are working with helps in stretching it.

There will still be a few little wrinkles in it but they will bake out with a little heat from the sun. This one was 12’x40’ on block. Has to drill holes and set anchors for each one.
97e9b1982eb4af6789dd31ab1d386b19.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's about how mine looks when I install it. I start from the top corner and go along the top... then bottom middle and go outwards. Maybe I'll try top center first.
 

BALLPARK

New Member
I don't have any suggestions using a banner only or the media type to hit your goals.

But I would suggest to up sell the client on Ackland Media Frames. We just ordered some 4x40's and we will schedule the install shortly. I can send you some pics, if it would help.

Our 4x40s frames will be mounted to ACM panels. We have some smaller 2x10s that will also get ACM backers on an R type building face. The others will be mounted to concrete walls.

Once I explained the reduced cost in the future to quickly update the banners and make sure they all look great while displayed... the ballpark owner agreed. They had been using concrete wrap vinyls, coroplast, and banners with no frames. It's a bit more on the initial purchase but the advantages over time for this ballpark means they can update their prints now with our standard DPD 313 banner media. Our clients love it as it's white point is on point! It does well in our area for harsh winters and hot summers. We mainly use it for ballparks and race tracks.
 

BALLPARK

New Member
We also used the Ackland Media Frames on some Concrete R Type Wall facings. It worked like a charm on a basketball stadium and they were quite large. I'm a big fan of the product and love it when our clients want to use it. The change out is quick and the banners look very good when displayed!

Facebook example using the frame...
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Well, I'm not 100% sure this location has grommets because I didn't take it off yet.. but the other two did and were just as tight. As Robert says...maybe maybe not.. we shall see...
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Most R and PBR panel are 12" OC on the high rib so set your grommets to that. You could also probably fasten roof hat channel then screw the banner into that. Then if you have to change it, you're not making more holes in the panels.
 
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