Amplis Urth Pure G solvent canvas issue

[sfr table hockey]

This was their Archival canvas. Tried their sample size roll and loved it, I thought.

Is anyone using this right now or had issues. Just got the new full roll and I thought my printer was going haywire. The print on the canvas has fade lines running the scan direction as if the heads were starving and always at different parts of the print. Some right off the bat and then next was half way in.

Tried new dampers and put in some banner media to test the heads and a perfect print. Went back to the canvas and crap all over.

Thinking the media is bad and just seeing if anyone else heard or had issues.

 

[sfr table hockey]

Update:

Just wanted to update this post for others as it was not bad media nor dampers or ink issues or heat. Seems that the roll is just that heavy that when it had to feed media (even with flanges in the core) it caused the drop out look and fade lines. Just never noticed it happened when the roll got tight. Test prints were done with partial pieces or a smaller roll of media.

SO.... if you have a heavy roll of media and notice drop out it may be that you just need to feed out some media and keep and eye so it does not need to pull the weight of the roll. Never thought a feed issue would create a look of what you get with ink starvation or drop out for a 1/4 inch or so.

This was on a Roland CJ 500.

 

[noregrets]

Hi,

Very glad to read your post and see that someone else is having the same issues as me.

I am using a variation of that canvas (pretty much the same thing) and am getting exactly the same problem as you.

I have tried everything under the sun, including pre feeding as you suggested, but with me it is also happening at the end of the roll, when there is very little weight.

Will keep you posted if I find out more, but I have pulled a lot of hair out over this one, as I have over 100 rolls of the stuff in stock!

 

[prosigner]

Interesting.. we are looking at Urth Pure G for their high quality archival canvas, but this is a bit worrisome. At what point in the roll did you notice this normally?

Are you guys still running into these issues? Was it worth it for the quality of the media? This looks to be the best canvas I have found for solvent printers so far.

 

[noregrets]

My solution was the same as sfr's above. Just had to prefeed the roll. Wish I had come across his post earlier, but I was at the point of giving up when I found it. Had no problems since, and have printed rolls and rolls of the stuff.

The only time I have had the issue is when I forget to prefeed...... So it does need a bit of supervision, but have had no other problems. Mine is a GS6000

Hope that helps

 

[prosigner]

Hey noregrets,

Thanks for the reply! How do you find the quality compared to other non-archival quality solvent canvas if you have anything to compare it to?

 

[sfr table hockey]

I have since replaced heads in that printer, as they were due for a change, but have not printed too many larger canvas on that media as of late. I tend to use the waterbased printer for most of the canvas art stuff and the solvent for the photo stuff. I have one to do now so I will test it out again. Seems that had done the trick for me, however I have sampled some Sihl Picasso canvas and that seemed to be quite close in look and cheaper. I do like the fact that you don't need to varnish with that media (at least I don't) it is quite good for scratch resistance that way, however the cost on that stuff is as much as good waterbased canvas so there is no big savings other than time on varnish. We also have to take their word about being the first archival solvent as none else claim that and no one has tried it for over 50 years.

Again ink choice may differ for scratching, as I now use the Roland Eco Sol Max ink.

 

[prosigner]

Thanks for the insight table hockey,

We are using Eco Sol Max 2 so it should be similar. Still trying to decide if it is worth the price jump over Fredrix Matte Canvas (almost double the price!) so I appreciate it! Not needing to coat is definitely a plus and would save on some of the costs so that is good. With the 22mil thickness do you sheet cut it? Or do you cut it by hand?

 

[noregrets]

I have been using Breathing Color for years, primarily with my aqueous printers, but I trust the brand and am happy with the quality and their service. To be honest I havent really tried anything else on the solvent printer, mainly because what I have works really well

 

[sfr table hockey]

Thanks for the insight table hockey,

Not needing to coat is definitely a plus and would save on some of the costs so that is good. With the 22mil thickness do you sheet cut it? Or do you cut it by hand?

Not having to apply a clear is not so much saving the small cost of the clear but more its the time saved that I find a benifit. I do use the sheet cut but I find I need to grab the left edge of the media (where the blade starts the cut off) and pull it tight for the start of the blade cut and then from there it goes ok, however you still might have a few spots to use a blade to separate. I'm sure a newer sharper blade would help as well.