• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Applying computer-cut graphics onto acrylic faces by hand

dzign

New Member
I'd like some advice for applying cut vinyl onto acrylic. The graphics have transfer tape applied to them. My thought is to use Rapid Tac, but am concerned about the vinyl not completely laying flat once the transfer tape is removed after it's dried out. What's the best way to apply these graphics by hand?
 

dzign

New Member
Can someone please suggest their methods here. I'm looking to see what other experienced pros are doing. I've tried to follow 3M's recommendations, and I've not been too thrilled. I've had a few times where I've done this type of sign, but mostly it's been digitally printed panels which I apply with soapy water and a silkscreen squeegie. So refresh my memory of how it's done when the graphics are individually cut with transfer tape applied.

Here's how I've done it: I clean the surfaces including the back of the liner of the graphic, tape it into position, pull back the liner and spray Rapid Tac onto the decal and the acrylic. Then I lay it down and start squeegeeing from the tape hinge, center up, then center down overlaying them halfway and work across the graphic. Then I'd pull the transfer tape off and respray to work out any fluid still retained. Here's where I usually have problems and and can't get everything down perfect and I'm fighting it trying to get it smooth, poking holes to release the fluid. Any suggestions?
 

Scott Reynolds

New Member
I'm confused. I don't know what this thread is about. I re-read the Op's post's and I'm still confused. Whats the problem? Wet or dry, laying vinyl is laying vinyl. I mostly apply dry, but even wet, whats the problem?

What really threw me for a loop is this.

"but am concerned about the vinyl not completely laying flat once the transfer tape is removed after it's dried out."

Dont remove the transfer before the graphic is down. If you having trouble removing the transfer tape, spray it with some Rapid tac and let in set for a few sec. before removing it.

Since your location is top secret, I cant help with any tips concerning applying in the hot, cold, dry or wet...
 

S'N'S

New Member
Applying cut vinyl to acrylic light box panels I always do dry and the flood coat backing of white as well (I use Trans Vinyl for light boxes) I alway apply to the inside, outside looks cheap and crap.
If doing vinyl wet on the panel, squeegee hard to get all the app fluid out before you remove the app tape. Let it dry for a while, wet app tape and remove, there should be no need to go back over it again. If its a nice day, throw it out in the sun for an hour or two will help dry and get rid of small bubbles.
 

dzign

New Member
Applying cut vinyl to acrylic light box panels I always do dry and the flood coat backing of white as well (I use Trans Vinyl for light boxes) I alway apply to the inside, outside looks cheap and crap.
If doing vinyl wet on the panel, squeegee hard to get all the app fluid out before you remove the app tape. Let it dry for a while, wet app tape and remove, there should be no need to go back over it again. If its a nice day, throw it out in the sun for an hour or two will help dry and get rid of small bubbles.

Ok, Thanks! This was very helpful. I'm applying cast vinyl on a translucent white high-impact acrylic face that oddly, won't be illuminated. I do like your method of using clear faces, backing up the reverse graphic with trans white vinyl. I guess the air line around the graphics adds a nice touch huh? I'm curious how you can put the graphics down dry on the back and not see some considerable noise in the adhesive layer, especially black. Please suggest your method of applying graphics this way in more detail. I'd like to do the graphics dry also, especially as I'm doing them on the front of white faces. Or perhaps since you do them on the reverse side, bubbles and irregularities in the application don't show up.
 

dzign

New Member
I'm confused. I don't know what this thread is about. I re-read the Op's post's and I'm still confused. Whats the problem? Wet or dry, laying vinyl is laying vinyl. I mostly apply dry, but even wet, whats the problem?

What really threw me for a loop is this.

"but am concerned about the vinyl not completely laying flat once the transfer tape is removed after it's dried out."

Dont remove the transfer before the graphic is down. If you having trouble removing the transfer tape, spray it with some Rapid tac and let in set for a few sec. before removing it.

Since your location is top secret, I cant help with any tips concerning applying in the hot, cold, dry or wet...

Thanks Scott, I'm applying these graphics onto 5' x 10' faces either Monday or Tuesday inside a shop with the faces laying flat on a table. You understood correctly about my concerns of working out fluid bubbles once the graphic had dried out and it was time to remove the transfer tape. I usually remove the tape before it's set too long and your suggestion to wet the transfer tape first is much appreciated. Sorry about the confusion of the title of this post, any suggestion as to a better title next time?
 

edgette

New Member
I'd ditch the fluid. As long as your transfer tape goes on bubble free to your vinyl you should be able to lay it down without the fluid and the hassle you're having. On a face that large (depending on how large each graphic is) I would tape it on like you have been doing and break it up into a few more manageable chunks. I just put on a 21' set of text graphics on a concession trailer (it was cut and transfer taped as one piece) but once set it place I broke it into 4 smaller pieces.
 

dzign

New Member
edgette and Scott, the graphics set include 14.5" x 120" rectangle with reversed lettering. Also 6' x 20" lettering only. Lastly, an 8' x 20" nike-like swath. I contemplated using my laminator, but opted for a table install of the transfer tape. It's on straight and bubble free. Could go wet or dry with most of this. Will be center hinging the long rectange as it has to be parallel with the sign or it'll look off if it drifts. Probably cut up the larger lettering cut and try one dry first. Swath will be wet applied most likely. By the way, Los Angeles here.
 
Top