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Best Way to Install this Sign Packaga

Renato Pinto

Graphics Manager
I have a customer who sent me the picture attached.

She is wanting to do the same layout except with (140) 8" by 10" Float-Mounted Signs.

I was thinking of using some sort of cleats so they float at least 1/2" off the wall.

However, my biggest concern is the installation. What would you do to make this go as smooth and fast as possible. I want to make a pattern but I'm just not sure on how to go about it.

Anything helps,
Thanks!
 

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bannertime

Active Member
If you've got a plotter and can put in a pen tool; then make a plotted pattern. Do a full size layout in your design software, mark your holes and plot it. Then go and tape up the whole panel and start transferring the marks to the wall or drilling.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
I have a customer who sent me the picture attached.

She is wanting to do the same layout except with (140) 8" by 10" Float-Mounted Signs.

I was thinking of using some sort of cleats so they float at least 1/2" off the wall.

However, my biggest concern is the installation. What would you do to make this go as smooth and fast as possible. I want to make a pattern but I'm just not sure on how to go about it.

Anything helps,
Thanks!

My idea would be to make a template out of wood. Start with the top layer and then adjust the template down. Use a block to get the spacing consistent. I duno, may be a dumb idea... I use a wood template when I have to do multiple signs at the same height like when did indoor hotel signs. Bannertime's idea is simpler and probable more exact.
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Hero Signs

If they let me make it, they will come
Just like painting and individual channel letters. Make a pattern for all drill holes and outline images. Tape the edges of your patterns to reinforce them so you are not tearing the pattern when adjusting.
 

Moze

Precision Sign Services
Guessing these are lightweight, I would just use 3M Command Strips to mount them and a level to install the bottom row of panels. In advance, cut whatever material to size to use as a spacer.
 

Evan Gillette

New Member
Either full template or spacer jig like moze said, one this to remember is to always check what you are measuring from. Ceiling to floor spacing can be pretty inconsistent even in new construction. Another little tip is to use a laser transit or laser line on a tripod if you have room. Mark your start and end and adjust the laser line, its easier to work around and no clean up.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
What substrate do you intend to use for your signs ?? That's the first question.
 

untitled

New Member
Cut a piece of 2x4 or scrape wood as a spacer. Then laser level with horizontal and vertical lines. I'd use VHB tape to mount them up.
 

JTBoh

I sell signage and signage accessories.
If they have 140x of these, customer will likely be swapping these out in the future. May want to try and sell a "quick-change" type system. I'd go cable/rod display system. Modern look, metal and glass, and customer can swap as needed.
 

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ddarlak

Go Bills!
Make your own cleats out of 1/2" Sintra, laser level, double sided tape.

i'd put a cleat on top and a flat bar on the bottom back of sign to keep the space from the wall.

vertical placement of cleats on wall is not super critical since you can place all the signs on and then take your 4' ruler and just line them all up at once.
 

Martin Denton

New Member
I would be inclined to use sign locator stand offs that you use for fixing stood off letters, make a template as per normal and just click the fixings into the cups, makes replacement easy as well, just ensure all substrates have the stand off fixings in identical place by using a template and then you can remove one and replace it with another...
 

FASTSIGNS

New Member
We mounted something similar. Used a vinyl template on the wall - something like etch or very close to wall color. Then just mounted a smaller shim on the back of the sign. Lined up with template and install went smooth.
 

kcollinsdesign

Old member
Design your gaps to be the same size as a plastic 4' level (side or edge - your choice). Calculate where your first one goes, then use your level to line up and space the rest of them. Use velcro so that you can move/re-position if needed. I would use black gator foam to mount my prints. Super simple and clean. I would hate to have to put up that cable and stand-off system (but I would if required, it's just going to cost a small fortune and put multiple holes in the wall).
 

visual800

Active Member
we would use a paper pattern for spacing. I would mount photos on 1/8" pvc and cut some 1/4" pvc spacers for the backs of them, maybe 1"x1" squares and use 4 per picture and use vhb. I would pvc glue the spacers onto the backs of the pvc for the pics. This would be the most economical way
 
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