CJ-500 converted - Big thanks to sfr hockey table

[CropMarks]

Thanks for the responses! I appreciate it. I think that sfr table hockey's response is probably right on... the better job you do to get out both the aqueous ink and solution, the better chance I stand of them holding up longer. In some posts I've seen people have really good luck with 3rd party inks and other folks have had issues. I think I'll spend a little extra for the Roland brand, it's definitely cheaper than the $100 per 220ml I'm paying now.

By the way sfr table hockey... I love all things hockey! rod/table hockey, real hockey... I can't wait until late fall when rink construction begins in my front yard. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbMAgbR4DvU&feature=channel

 

[darren46]

heater help!!!

J-500 converted - Big thanks to sfr hockey table
Well I finally got around to converting my Roland CJ 500 to Eco-Sol Max inks. It was kind of a fun project & good getting to know my machine a little more intimately

I flushed the ink lines, replaced the pump, capping station, print heads, wiper, dampers AND added heaters, thermocouples & PID controllers.

Here she is in action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boMmX3BCdG4

Still have a lot of playing around to get everything right, messing with color profiles and what not, but it's not too bad.

Again, a big thanks to sfr hockey table
he has been very generous with his time, answering questions, etc.



If I can pass along anything I learned during the solvent conversion, I will do my best.[/QUOTE]

I hope you can pass on what you've learn't 2 me!
the heater parts and installation would be FANTASTIC!!!!!

 

[boggiom72]

Hi,
I'm getting a FJ740 for real cheap..
I'm looking to convert, but here and there I heard converting to sepiax ink it would be easier for the printheads... Since it is in the end a water based (resin) ink... The issue is that the heater must reach 130 instead 110...
You guys who installed the heater... Is this a possible temperature to reach withou major issues?

Thx
m

 

[sfr table hockey]

Hi,
I'm getting a FJ740 for real cheap..
I'm looking to convert, but here and there I heard converting to sepiax ink it would be easier for the printheads... Since it is in the end a water based (resin) ink... The issue is that the heater must reach 130 instead 110...
You guys who installed the heater... Is this a possible temperature to reach withou major issues?

Thx
m

I used infloor heat cable to make my heat strips and the other day I left the heat on and forgot to turn it off. Several hours later it was showing 131 F but I use a cooking probe for my temp reading so this may not be surface temp but the temp inside under the platten. This would be max for me but I tend to run it at 110 F for most things.

I would think the ones the guys are using in this thread would go higher.

I would be interested if you do install the latex inks to hear what you find for results.

 

[AUTO-FX]

i think somebody was talking about this just the other day. there was a youtube with a guy using halogen lamps to heat the vinyl- they even had a lamp mounted on the carriage.
Artbot was talking about a hot air system - some kind of plenum/tube idea.

 

[CustomRide]

Hi,
I'm getting a FJ740 for real cheap..
I'm looking to convert, but here and there I heard converting to sepiax ink it would be easier for the printheads... Since it is in the end a water based (resin) ink... The issue is that the heater must reach 130 instead 110...
You guys who installed the heater... Is this a possible temperature to reach withou major issues?

Thx
m

Be careful with that FJ740 last I checked half the print heads were not printing properly. If your looking at the one Vinny has had up for sale for months.

 

[boggiom72]

thanks for replay! I dint see it until now... I'm new to this forum and I was expecting email-alert if somebody was replaying to my post!
Thx
m

 

[boggiom72]

I used infloor heat cable to make my heat strips and the other day I left the heat on and forgot to turn it off. Several hours later it was showing 131 F but I use a cooking probe for my temp reading so this may not be surface temp but the temp inside under the platten. This would be max for me but I tend to run it at 110 F for most things.

I would think the ones the guys are using in this thread would go higher.

I would be interested if you do install the latex inks to hear what you find for results.

Thanks a lot Table Hickey!!!

I will try to do this project. I heard very good things about sepiax....

So you think I could just put my silicon tape under the front platen, and if too many holes get stuck, maybe I just drill a few more?

 

[AUTO-FX]

if you're going to try to use sepiax, the platen under the printhead carriage is the most important to heat. The media needs to be 130 at the point where the ink hits the media. I would think the media will be markedly buckling at that temperature, so you'll need all the vacuum holes to be operable.

 

[boggiom72]

Thx!
I just opened...
It seems there is enough space for closing just one line of holes... I still have to see this silicon tape, but probably I should add some holes in the plate?
You are saying those holes basically suck the media down? What media at 130 will start buckling? It doesn't seems terribly hot... And I'm afraid if it start doing that.. no holes will hold it down...
Aaaah... It's scaring me a bit this project... Anybody did it already?
THX!

 

[boggiom72]

Perfect! I found an heating cord!!!
It seems somehow more flexible then a heating tape and I can pass it around the vacuum's holes without closing them!!!!

http://www.briskheat.com/p-389-new-hwc-high-temperature-heating-cords.aspx

thanks a lot again!

 

[stix]

Conversion

Just purchased a Fj-52 and plan on converting from waterbased to solvent, but I'm searching for suggestions.

Thanks in advance

 

[stix]

Just a way to give back because people have helped me here.

www.lightobject.com JLD612 controller

Silicone Heaters www.omega.com

 

[beppe34]

Does anyone have any input to my converting project?

http://signs101.com/forums/showpost.php?p=882600&postcount=11

best regards
/beppe34

 

[sfr table hockey]

Does anyone have any input to my converting project?

http://signs101.com/forums/showpost.php?p=882600&postcount=11

best regards
/beppe34

Are you on skype? That may be the best way to go over a project like this. There would be too much to do in emails and to phone may be a bit $$. If you had a web cam that could be close to the printer, that would be a bonus. I made my own heat strips from infloor heat cable so I would think your setup from Dave would be a lot easier to install. It really is not that bad once you get going.

Time zone may be an issue.

 

[Tone-Mark Creative]

CJ-500 Conversion-tiptoe-ing through process

Greetings from California. Congratulations on getting your conversion done! Got everything needed for conversion except heaters. That's down the road a piece...and have doven in. Lucked out that the printer was already using pigmented inks, so have moved on to changing pump and capping station. The service manual shows a top view but there are obstructions to say the least. Obviously being very careful I want to make all the right moves. Soventprinterconversions.com is pretty vague and a lot of their instructions point to using the service manual blowing off giving any kind of detailed instructions, but it appears much has to be removed before accessing pump and capping station. I am going to try to handle this all in the next 4-5 days. What would you recommend doing next?

Sincerely,
Taking it Slow

Well I finally got around to converting my Roland CJ 500 to Eco-Sol Max inks. It was kind of a fun project & good getting to know my machine a little more intimately

I flushed the ink lines, replaced the pump, capping station, print heads, wiper, dampers AND added heaters, thermocouples & PID controllers.

Here she is in action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boMmX3BCdG4

Still have a lot of playing around to get everything right, messing with color profiles and what not, but it's not too bad.

Again, a big thanks to sfr hockey table
he has been very generous with his time, answering questions, etc.

If I can pass along anything I learned during the solvent conversion, I will do my best.

 

[Tone-Mark Creative]

CJ-500 Conversion-tiptoe-ing through process

Greetings all. Have been putting my conversion of a CJ-500 on hold until I had all data and parts together. Other than heater, will now be proceeding. Upon opening the pump and capping station cover, there seems to be no way of getting those items out. Printerconversions.com just says remove/ replace capping station and pump following Roland Service manual, but fail to mention how I get to those items. I can follow instructions to the letter, but when a whole block of information is left out its like someone putting an instruction that says: now remove nuclear warhead. Though all tolled I'm sitting at about $3500.00 invested, I don't want to make any false moves with the goal line now so close, so if I seem a bit timid, it's just I'm not rich and want to do it right. I would like to move forward with this process and get to flushing the system in the next day or so, so any info that would move me from point a to point b would be appreciated.

 

[Tone-Mark Creative]

Strip Tape Heaters/ Controller

Hi there. Looked at both the Heater tape with controller and the JLD612 Dual Display PID Temperature Controllermeter. Did you rig these together/ and how ? Also the tape ...how is that adhered to platen? Is there adhesive and is it heat resistant? Seems like a no-brainer, but I wouldn't ask if I knew. This would save me so much money over printerconversions hot box!

Just a way to give back because people have helped me here.

www.lightobject.com JLD612 controller

Silicone Heaters www.omega.com

 

[lodcomm]

Hi there. Looked at both the Heater tape with controller and the JLD612 Dual Display PID Temperature Controllermeter. Did you rig these together/ and how ? Also the tape ...how is that adhered to platen? Is there adhesive and is it heat resistant? Seems like a no-brainer, but I wouldn't ask if I knew. This would save me so much money over printerconversions hot box!

Hello,

You can use high temp metallic flue tape - it will easily hold up with the temps you are working with:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-High-Temperature-Flue-15-Foot/dp/B00004Z4DS

You can probably find it at your local hardware store as well.



-cheers

-todd