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CJV30-130 Printhead replacement now absolutely zero print
- Thread starter signlords
- Start date
SightLine
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Few important questions...
New OEM Mimaki print head with the green connector or generic Epson head with a black connector?
Did you unplug the printer and let it sit for 15 minutes before disconnecting the head or memory board cables?
Did you first gently flush the new head before installing it? If not the head is probably air locked.
Are the dampers all at least half full? They should actually be almost totally full.
Are you sure the capping top is getting a good seal against the head and is in good shape?
Are you sure the pump is good?
I assume no errors on starting up the printer.
New OEM Mimaki print head with the green connector or generic Epson head with a black connector?
Did you unplug the printer and let it sit for 15 minutes before disconnecting the head or memory board cables?
Did you first gently flush the new head before installing it? If not the head is probably air locked.
Are the dampers all at least half full? They should actually be almost totally full.
Are you sure the capping top is getting a good seal against the head and is in good shape?
Are you sure the pump is good?
I assume no errors on starting up the printer.
Printhead was Mimaki with green connector
Disconnected printer for half hour-ish to let everything discharge
Going to attempt the gentle flush next - will post update
All dampers are mostly full
Capping station and pump both seem good, and the old print head was working just not perfect on blue.
We even tried gentle flush followed by cleaning cycles on the old head and gained back some blue but not perfect. So that leads me to believe pump and capping station are good, although I know it does not rule them out completely.
NO errors on the interface at all it goes through all menus and functions properly.
Thanks for the reply! I will let you know after the headflush
Disconnected printer for half hour-ish to let everything discharge
Going to attempt the gentle flush next - will post update
All dampers are mostly full
Capping station and pump both seem good, and the old print head was working just not perfect on blue.
We even tried gentle flush followed by cleaning cycles on the old head and gained back some blue but not perfect. So that leads me to believe pump and capping station are good, although I know it does not rule them out completely.
NO errors on the interface at all it goes through all menus and functions properly.
Thanks for the reply! I will let you know after the headflush
SightLine
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Sounds like you did everything right! On flushing the head you need a syringe and an old style damper (like the ones used on the older DX4 head machines). They say to slowly inject about 3-4ml of your solvent cleaning/flush into each of the 8 damper nipples of the new print head. This should be done very slowly, taking
about a half a minute for each channel. Print heads can be damaged if fluid is injected too fast.
about a half a minute for each channel. Print heads can be damaged if fluid is injected too fast.
Just flushed them all and have color coming through on all sections!!! Just ordered some dampers because blue is struggling, which it was before too, maybe it was very clogged. I wonder if the guy I bought it from ordered a replacement print head and just needed dampers... We shall see
SightLine
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Awesome! 
- it could also be the ink joint valves which are the little pieces just above the dampers (those also have valves) or the cartridge slot needles clogging up, capping top not doing very well.... I've reverse flushed the cartridge slot needles before which helped at that time. Remove the damper from the line, then remove the ink joint valve, then in test menus open one cartridge slot valve then just push a little fluid into the line is how I did it.
Now for all the fun alignments..... Make sure to set the normal user feed compensation to zero (dot position will get reset when you run the service mode alignments). Then do the service mode slant, then the draft and fine Y, then the feed comp. Reboot the printer, then do the dot position correction for both fine and draft user modes. Then lastly verify the feed comp. I think that's all the steps if I remember right.
I always forget something and only discover it when we try to use some particular mode. Like running fine perfect and looks amazing then run a fast draft mode job and it looks awful. lol
- it could also be the ink joint valves which are the little pieces just above the dampers (those also have valves) or the cartridge slot needles clogging up, capping top not doing very well.... I've reverse flushed the cartridge slot needles before which helped at that time. Remove the damper from the line, then remove the ink joint valve, then in test menus open one cartridge slot valve then just push a little fluid into the line is how I did it.Now for all the fun alignments..... Make sure to set the normal user feed compensation to zero (dot position will get reset when you run the service mode alignments). Then do the service mode slant, then the draft and fine Y, then the feed comp. Reboot the printer, then do the dot position correction for both fine and draft user modes. Then lastly verify the feed comp. I think that's all the steps if I remember right.
I always forget something and only discover it when we try to use some particular mode. Like running fine perfect and looks amazing then run a fast draft mode job and it looks awful. lol