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CNC stud marks

I'm looking for a better way to mark a routed sin face for studs. Currently, I'm changing our tool on the CNC router to a regular brush you'd find for a Dremel tool. It makes good marks so we can shoot studs later with the stud gun but over time (and usually on the same sin face) the brushes will flatten out and won't mark the aluminum. Any suggestions would be great.
 

GaSouthpaw

Profane and profane accessories.
Just set your depth to score the back (.005" or so) and you can use the same bit you use for cutting. Run around the outside of the stud marks as a separate file before cutting out.
For PVC or acrylic, I use a 1/8" bit and drill the center of the stud marks anywhere from .09"-.50" deep, depending on the thickness of the material.
 

KSTrooper

Wrapper, designer, illustrator
I'm looking for a better way to mark a routed sin face for studs. Currently, I'm changing our tool on the CNC router to a regular brush you'd find for a Dremel tool. It makes good marks so we can shoot studs later with the stud gun but over time (and usually on the same sin face) the brushes will flatten out and won't mark the aluminum. Any suggestions would be great.

I just use an old swivel knife with a worn out blade in it and let the knife basically just score the aluminum slightly.
 

MikePro

New Member
+1 to scoring with a bit, I do it too. beats the heck out of the old-way, marking by-hand with a paper pattern and keeping track of letters 1-xxx. duplicate letters, always get duplicated stud targets, saves hours of effort/headache during final production/install.

.01" (i go .015") depth is plenty enough to retain your mark even after orbital sanding aluminum, but shallow enough that you don't ever see the mark through the face of the material.
 

bowtievega

Premium Subscriber
We use a 3/16" single flute up shear bit and engrave a .320" dia hole about .010" deep for each stud location. With that dia bit and the size of the hole you end up with a engraved stud mark that has a flat bottom. Just center up the weld stud and you are good to go. Seems to help with the welding as well since you are attaching the stud to a freshly machined piece of aluminum with no oxidation.
 
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