Concrete counter top..Has anyone here created their own?

[Andy D]

This is something I'm looking to do as a home project, just wondering if anyone here has
any experience doing this at home or even as part of a job.
I know you really need to get concrete made specifically for counter tops,
any recommendation of which brand would be appreciated.

 

[2B]

Have not made a counter from concrete before. we have made stencils for them when it is polished or full graphics stuck to the concrete and then pour clear resin over it.

either way the concrete is always very smooth and minimal pours are found

 

[Fred Weiss]

I knew a guy years ago who made concrete items for yards. His trick was to use a vibrating table as soon as he poured which ultimately resulted in a near glass smooth surface.

 

[BranEnt]

Here is a article .....

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how...s-and-templates-for-concrete-countertops.aspx

 

[Andy D]

I knew a guy years ago who made concrete items for yards. His trick was to use a vibrating table as soon as he poured which ultimately resulted in a near glass smooth surface.

This is what I thought I would create to vibrate , about three of these and put the mold on top of it, except I would mount old or cheap vibrating hand sanders to the bottom....

[video=youtube;QRYIfUxfSb4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRYIfUxfSb4[/video]

 

[Andy D]

Have not made a counter from concrete before. we have made stencils for them when it is polished or full graphics stuck to the concrete and then pour clear resin over it.

either way the concrete is always very smooth and minimal pours are found

I would love to see picture, do you have any?
Thanks

 

[GypsyGraphics]

here's a great resource for concrete products and techniques (and a nice brochure to boot)
https://issuu.com/digitalpublish/do...sionGuid=b2381f40-edb1-4a56-bea5-b81a60c7d906

 

[Cross Signs]

I used to cut designs out of sandblast mask for a client who would mold them into a concrete counter top. And then he would remove the mask, and pour in another colored substance. And have kind of an inlay-ed look.

 

[Andy D]

here's a great resource for concrete products and techniques (and a nice brochure to boot)
https://issuu.com/digitalpublish/do...sionGuid=b2381f40-edb1-4a56-bea5-b81a60c7d906

Killer source, Thanks Gypsy!

 

[skyhigh]

My Son-in-Law got involved in making concrete kitchen counter tops a couple years ago. At first I thought he was nuts (really....concrete?????)......That was, until I saw a few jobs that he had done. Very nice

The only thing better than making your own concrete counter tops, is having a SIL to make them for ya.

 

[John L]

Here's one I did at home several years ago. It's held up very well actually. Just regular 4000 psi concrete with stain mixed in. 3/8" rebar welded up into a grid of about 8" x 8". I felt that was necessary for the big overhangs. I am about 10 years into it with no cracks.. PA winters.

I have a pretty decent concrete vibrator but even if didn't regularly need one, I'd buy the harbor freight one. Your savings in doing it yourself will easily pay for it. I clamped the vibrating head to one of our work benches... shakes the whole table just the right amount during the pour.

I did the bullhose edge forms by pushing strips of blue foam insulation through a table saw on a diagonal to let the blade kind of "scallop" the profile out. BE CAREFUL with the table saw stuff... method was a little unorthodox but the effect was a big hit.

 

[Happyprinter]

I did my own concrete countertops about 5 years ago. They turned out great. Didn't use a vibrator, just need a hammer to gently tap the forms a few times to get the cement to settle. I used rebar and fiber in the mix. If you have any concrete experience it isn't difficult. I was able to pour mine in place so I did not have to do anything after the pour other than remove the side forms and trim it out. I used a rough rock type of finish on the outer edges. Good Luck

 

[Andy D]

Here's one I did at home several years ago. It's held up very well actually. Just regular 4000 psi concrete with stain mixed in. 3/8" rebar welded up into a grid of about 8" x 8". I felt that was necessary for the big overhangs. I am about 10 years into it with no cracks.. PA winters.

I have a pretty decent concrete vibrator but even if didn't regularly need one, I'd buy the harbor freight one. Your savings in doing it yourself will easily pay for it. I clamped the vibrating head to one of our work benches... shakes the whole table just the right amount during the pour.

I did the bullhose edge forms by pushing strips of blue foam insulation through a table saw on a diagonal to let the blade kind of "scallop" the profile out. BE CAREFUL with the table saw stuff... method was a little unorthodox but the effect was a big hit.

Nice! Did you do it via a female mold? I would think you would have to had to with the sink.

 

[John L]

Yes, I poured it into a form made from 3/4" Melamine sheet (with the foam put in the edges). Poured upside down to take advantage of the smooth melamine sheet face. You have to let it cure a couple days at least before taking the form off of it and flipping it over when doing it this way but I never polished anything after it was done... that smoothness was from the form. The sink and faucet holes were just multiple layers of melamine with thin shipping foam wrapped around it so it would release.

You have lots of edge options nowadays... no need to wing it like I did.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321541450497?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true