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Countertop Laminate on acrylic
- Thread starter Billct2
- Start date
The problem I can see with silicone is getting a thin enough spread of gunge without the raised beads which WILL show through onto the display side of the laminate.
When we use laminates we stick em on with a heavy duty contact adhesive which we apply using a special applicator which cost us silly money... you can create the same effect by using an old comb which you scrape through the adhesive giving it the correct thin coverage and even peak height... just don't forget to apply adhesive to both surfaces.
I don't like the idea of using acrylic... first off it doesn't have much load bearing tolerance... if someone drops a heavy parcel on the counter it'll snap the acrylic under sheet. The second problem is bonding... the only way to get contact adhesive to bind to acrylic is by sanding the nuts out of the acrylic sheet to give the glue something to bite onto.
The best results are achieved when you use a plywood or MDF board; contact adhesive penetrates into this stuff and gets a better grip by doing so.
If you are going to use silicone I'd use the same comb technique to try and get a nice even thin spread of silicone so you don't get the raised lines.
When we use laminates we stick em on with a heavy duty contact adhesive which we apply using a special applicator which cost us silly money... you can create the same effect by using an old comb which you scrape through the adhesive giving it the correct thin coverage and even peak height... just don't forget to apply adhesive to both surfaces.
I don't like the idea of using acrylic... first off it doesn't have much load bearing tolerance... if someone drops a heavy parcel on the counter it'll snap the acrylic under sheet. The second problem is bonding... the only way to get contact adhesive to bind to acrylic is by sanding the nuts out of the acrylic sheet to give the glue something to bite onto.
The best results are achieved when you use a plywood or MDF board; contact adhesive penetrates into this stuff and gets a better grip by doing so.
If you are going to use silicone I'd use the same comb technique to try and get a nice even thin spread of silicone so you don't get the raised lines.
natedawg9640
New Member
yes... why this material choice? what's the application?
Yes, we do it alot for interior signs. We use a film adhesive and it works fine. No special prep to the acrylic or laminate. Never had one delaminate yet. We have used contact cement in the past with good results as well. The film adhesive is a lot cleaner and faster though.
Todd
Todd
Billct2
Active Member
It's for a directory sign.
Black acrylic background panel with oak frame, then it will have a .25" panel mounted to the acrylic which is the panel which will have the laminate on it (the laminate matches some existing wall panels). Then there wil be black acrylic name plates mounted on top of the laminated panel with plastic velcro.
I want to use the acrylic for a few reasons...
I have the cut off
I can bond it to the background acrylic with resin bond
It will have a nice black edge that matches the rest of the material and won't need finishing
I also am considering 3M spray adhesive #90.
Black acrylic background panel with oak frame, then it will have a .25" panel mounted to the acrylic which is the panel which will have the laminate on it (the laminate matches some existing wall panels). Then there wil be black acrylic name plates mounted on top of the laminated panel with plastic velcro.
I want to use the acrylic for a few reasons...
I have the cut off
I can bond it to the background acrylic with resin bond
It will have a nice black edge that matches the rest of the material and won't need finishing
I also am considering 3M spray adhesive #90.
J Hill Designs
New Member
give mactac IB2107 laminating sheets a try...fairly cheap, comes 17x22 or something, high high tac
We use either 3M 467MP or Adheso Graphics FS-25