Cutting down stickers

[Thejaydogg]

Hi everyone!
just wondering everyone's technics on cutting down square and rectangle stickers. Right now I use a blade and ruler. Is there any machines that can cut down printed stickers into squares or rectangles?

Thanks

 

[Mr. Sign Pro]

http://www.royalsovereign.com/roll-...film-electric-trimmers/electric-trimmers.html

 

[Tizz]

Have been using a Neolt Trimmer for many years now. It's been a valuable addition to my setup. Takes the pain out of manually cutting labels which I did for some years!

http://neoltusa.com/products/manual_rotary_trimmers.php

 

[AaronSSsignsKC]

If you are cutting them on a plotter you should be able to set them up to perf cut where each decal is kiss cut to shape then perf cut out so all you have to do is pop each decal out of the backing. All the same size all done at one time on the machine. We never hand cut decal jobs unless it is a small run.

 

[Ultimate13]

If you are cutting them on a plotter you should be able to set them up to perf cut where each decal is kiss cut to shape then perf cut out so all you have to do is pop each decal out of the backing. All the same size all done at one time on the machine. We never hand cut decal jobs unless it is a small run.

I have been wanting to try this, but am curious doesn't it tear up the teflon strip and blade? Thank you in advance for any advice. (Roland XC-540)

 

[myront]

If you are cutting them on a plotter you should be able to set them up to perf cut where each decal is kiss cut to shape then perf cut out so all you have to do is pop each decal out of the backing. All the same size all done at one time on the machine. We never hand cut decal jobs unless it is a small run.

Yep, that's the way we roll. Except we call it "punch cut" technical term by our plotter is "Half cut". Under 10 decals and square/rectangle, blade and straight edge is most accurate as well as cleanest.

p.s. absolutely hate those rulers with the cork on the back. One sure way to get you fired!

 

[Tim Aucoin]

Depends on how they are printed.
HP 360 printed... strips get trimmed on Royal Sovereign electric trimmer, then either trimmed by hand with a guillotine or put in our hydraulic guillotine cutter.
Gerber Edge FX printed... ALWAYS get back-cut with back-slit for easy crack'n'peel feature.

 

[ShirtBurt]

This is how I do it, hope it helps someone else....

This may sound like it is in the wrong thread but it gets to the point.... I promise! lol

When I built my layout table (12'x6'), I used 4'x8 sheets of MDO plywood with a white melamine skin. On the edges of the plywood, I used a router set to a depth of appx 1/8" and put 12 gauge stainless steel angle on the edges. This allowed the stainless angle to be flush with the rest of the sheet. I butted the panels up but left appx. 1/16" between the panels for a knife blade. On the bottom side of the table, I mounted a strip of bright white LED's. This allows light to shine through this small gap and shows a nice sharp bright line through your material. This gap is so handy for cutting material and eliminates about 90% of any reason to be cutting material on your table top. (since melamine is pretty vulnerable to blades). I also made a sliding straight edge with a ruler glued to the top of it and a simple clamp.

With this setup, I am able to, very quickly and accurately, cut stickers to a consistent size with nice professional looking straight, square edges. Also very nice for cutting banners down to the hem lines and the light even shines through 18oz banner stock (without blockout)

There are cutters, guillotine shears and all kinds of other fancy equipment designed for this but sometimes the simplest setups are just as good as anything.

I attached the plans I put together for my carpenter that built my table. Like I said, I hope it is something that helps someone even if it is just a starting point to something that fits your needs specifically.

 

[bigben]

This may sound like it is in the wrong thread but it gets to the point.... I promise! lol

When I built my layout table (12'x6'), I used 4'x8 sheets of MDO plywood with a white melamine skin. On the edges of the plywood, I used a router set to a depth of appx 1/8" and put 12 gauge stainless steel angle on the edges. This allowed the stainless angle to be flush with the rest of the sheet. I butted the panels up but left appx. 1/16" between the panels for a knife blade. On the bottom side of the table, I mounted a strip of bright white LED's. This allows light to shine through this small gap and shows a nice sharp bright line through your material. This gap is so handy for cutting material and eliminates about 90% of any reason to be cutting material on your table top. (since melamine is pretty vulnerable to blades). I also made a sliding straight edge with a ruler glued to the top of it and a simple clamp.

With this setup, I am able to, very quickly and accurately, cut stickers to a consistent size with nice professional looking straight, square edges. Also very nice for cutting banners down to the hem lines and the light even shines through 18oz banner stock (without blockout)

There are cutters, guillotine shears and all kinds of other fancy equipment designed for this but sometimes the simplest setups are just as good as anything.

I attached the plans I put together for my carpenter that built my table. Like I said, I hope it is something that helps someone even if it is just a starting point to something that fits your needs specifically.

Very clever. I'll remember this when I will built my new table.

 

[jfiscus]

We have one of these; it is WONDERFUL for making straight cuts.
http://go-foster.com/products/cutterstrimmers/precisioncutterbars/evolutione2series/

 

[myront]

We have one of these; it is WONDERFUL for making straight cuts.
http://go-foster.com/products/cutterstrimmers/precisioncutterbars/evolutione2series/

We have something similar but only use it for rough cuts like banners and such. Cut can be as much as 1/8" off. When cutting small decals by hand and accuracy is a must I haven't found a more accurate way than a very flat straight edge and x-acto knife. Perfect example is applying decals to 1mm pvc to fit into slider tracks (nameplates). The cut has to be pretty precise. But if it's a significant amount I'd seek other avenues.

 

[DropZoneSpec]

I have been wanting to try this, but am curious doesn't it tear up the teflon strip and blade? Thank you in advance for any advice. (Roland XC-540)

I'm with ya. I hand cut everything with a guillotine or straight edge and Olfa knife. I have tried Half Cut repeatedly with little success on my Mimaki. I always get the material bunching or pulling...if not, the half cut isn't substantial enough to remove the sticker...
Ugh

 

[SignMeUpGraphics]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Fotoba range.
Some excellent (albeit pricey) equipment for precisely this task.
http://www.fotoba.com

 

[mike monte]

Perf cut works great for us

In reading your post we try to avoid manual labor whenever we can, especially when we have the machines that are capable of doing the task. Setting up perf cut initially may take a few minutes, but we stick with default length of cut and simply adjust pressure. We have used it for years and still have the same cutting strips in some of our machines. Yes it will wear greater on them over time but for the $29.00 to replace them, or whatever yours would cost, look at the labor time you would save. Not to mention the clean professional look of a nice clean stack all the same exact size!

 

[IND Digital Dept.]

Perf cut works great for us

In reading your post we try to avoid manual labor whenever we can, especially when we have the machines that are capable of doing the task. Setting up perf cut initially may take a few minutes, but we stick with default length of cut and simply adjust pressure. We have used it for years and still have the same cutting strips in some of our machines. Yes it will wear greater on them over time but for the $29.00 to replace them, or whatever yours would cost, look at the labor time you would save. Not to mention the clean professional look of a nice clean stack all the same exact size!

We are all about the contour-cut/perf-cut combo as well. You need to dial in your settings for different media, but once you do, you're set.

 

[Bradley Signs]

Hi everyone!
just wondering everyone's technics on cutting down square and rectangle stickers. Right now I use a blade and ruler. Is there any machines that can cut down printed stickers into squares or rectangles?

Thanks

If they have release paper on them, like ours do, we just use a paper cutter! If it's a bigger sheet of them,
we do cut one edge with a metal rule and a utility knife, just so we have one edge that is straight, to get started with... they come in all sizes. We can do up to a 12" x 12" with this one.

 

[Bugley1]

Perf Cut/ Half Cut on my Mimaki or my Graphtec is the way i go if you're having issues it's all in the settings. I was ready to throw my Graphtec in the street when i got it now its Awesome. Maybe sometimes i use a Rototrim if the decals need to be in sets

 

[TomK]

Perf Cut/ Half Cut on my Mimaki or my Graphtec is the way i go if you're having issues it's all in the settings. I was ready to throw my Graphtec in the street when i got it now its Awesome. Maybe sometimes i use a Rototrim if the decals need to be in sets

Hey Bugley1 what Mimaki are you using? A print/cut or their cutters?

Is the half-cut/perf cut done on the same job, or do you have to do contour cuts, move the blade, and then half-cut, like you do on the Graphtec? On my Summa, it does it all on one job (contour/perf cut) which is what I dislike about the Graphtec. As you know on the Graphtec, you have to do your contour cuts, move the blade to the other position, and then send the job again - which slows things down big time for me.

I'm asking because I am considering a CJV150 from Mimaki, and curious how they do the perf cuts.

Thanks!

 

[ikarasu]

Hey Bugley1 what Mimaki are you using? A print/cut or their cutters?

Is the half-cut/perf cut done on the same job, or do you have to do contour cuts, move the blade, and then half-cut, like you do on the Graphtec? On my Summa, it does it all on one job (contour/perf cut) which is what I dislike about the Graphtec. As you know on the Graphtec, you have to do your contour cuts, move the blade to the other position, and then send the job again - which slows things down big time for me.

I'm asking because I am considering a CJV150 from Mimaki, and curious how they do the perf cuts.

Thanks!

On your summa... Doesn't it cut the blade strip up a lot doing full cuts on it?

We change our graphtec cutting strip maybe once every 2-3 years. And that's perf cutting thousands of decals per month... 20-30,00 in some months.

A sales rep tried to sell us on the summa, when we voiced our concern about the strip getting chewed up since there's no channel... His reply was the strips are cheap. Which may be the case... But I dread changing the graphtec strip.

Do you require changing yours much?

 

[TomK]

On your summa... Doesn't it cut the blade strip up a lot doing full cuts on it?

We change our graphtec cutting strip maybe once every 2-3 years. And that's perf cutting thousands of decals per month... 20-30,00 in some months.

A sales rep tried to sell us on the summa, when we voiced our concern about the strip getting chewed up since there's no channel... His reply was the strips are cheap. Which may be the case... But I dread changing the graphtec strip.

Do you require changing yours much?

I perf cut on my Summa S2T every day and have not had to change the cutting strip yet, going on 1.5 years or so.

I used to like my Graphtec, until I got my Summa. On the Graphtec, having to send each job twice (one contour, move blade cartridge, then resend job to perf cut, move blade cartridge back) drove me crazy.

I have a FC8600-130 I use once a month of I'm lucky, and normally just to contour cut some square scrap stickers used for packaging. Once you go Summa, you never go back.

 

[ikarasu]

You can actually buy a second blade holder so you can do kiss/perf cuts all in 1 sweep. Of course it's like $600... I was considering getting one, but I really want a Summa for the Tangential option, and roll to roll. I have an older FC8000 at work... been waiting for it to die so I can talk them into getting a Summa.

Most of our stuff is 5-10 sets of the exact same thing, like 20 different sets. So I run everything through as kiss cut, then just re-run everything through as perf cut... makes it so you don't have to change the blade.

I mean, technically you could do a perf cut in the first slot like Summa does on the graphtec... If it doesn't mess up the summa strip much, it shouldn't mess up the graphtecs much... but I've never tried it.

We've been doing more and more perf cuts though, most orders end up being a couple rolls of material...usually takes me a week to kiss/perf cut and peel them out. I imagine with Summas roll to roll option I could cut that time in half... So next cutter we buy will be a Summa!