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Cutting MDF
- Thread starter WB
- Start date
theskipman_98
New Member
We use a MDF Lite for making molds for vacuum formed faces. All I can say is keep it climate controlled, it seems moisture is the biggy. We keep ours outside under an awning, because warpage isn't as big of a deal for what we use it for. When stacking sheets (we use 60"x97" 1/2" and 3/4") keep them stacked tight and if you have them up on driers (lift boards for the forklift to get under), use no less than 4 pieces that run full width of the material, and of equal heights. When cutting on the router I put the crown of the material to the table, turn on the vacuum. usually after cutting the drop will bow but the usable cut area for us is fairly flat.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
Last edited:
What thickness? What grade? Sourced from....?
Don't buy mdf from DIY centres or builders merchants... these are retail suppliers who only stock the crappy standard grade material which you DO NOT want to be using.. ever.
You need to be using at LEAST moisture resistant grade mdf or better still exterior grade material. You want to be buying these from a specialist timber board supplier, someone who supplies MDF & MFC to the furniture industry is ideal. It doesn't matter if your client doesn't need moisture resistance or exterior grade performance.. you need it to make machining as easy as possible.
When buying mdf it's important to make sure it's been stored properly... specialist suppliers keep all their mdf in flat stacks on top of heavy duty, fully supported pallets. This is important because the combined weight helps to keep the sheets pressed flat. DIY sheds sometimes store sheets vertically which is asking for bowing & cupping.
If you want the best results pay a few extra quid for a branded MDF product from someone like Medite or Koronospan. These are a lot better quality than generic el cheapo mdf and make machining a lot easier.
If you're using MR grade material from a supplier who knows his onions you should never have a problem with mdf... we've cut mountains of the stuff and have yet to see a bowed sheet.
Don't buy mdf from DIY centres or builders merchants... these are retail suppliers who only stock the crappy standard grade material which you DO NOT want to be using.. ever.
You need to be using at LEAST moisture resistant grade mdf or better still exterior grade material. You want to be buying these from a specialist timber board supplier, someone who supplies MDF & MFC to the furniture industry is ideal. It doesn't matter if your client doesn't need moisture resistance or exterior grade performance.. you need it to make machining as easy as possible.
When buying mdf it's important to make sure it's been stored properly... specialist suppliers keep all their mdf in flat stacks on top of heavy duty, fully supported pallets. This is important because the combined weight helps to keep the sheets pressed flat. DIY sheds sometimes store sheets vertically which is asking for bowing & cupping.
If you want the best results pay a few extra quid for a branded MDF product from someone like Medite or Koronospan. These are a lot better quality than generic el cheapo mdf and make machining a lot easier.
If you're using MR grade material from a supplier who knows his onions you should never have a problem with mdf... we've cut mountains of the stuff and have yet to see a bowed sheet.
artbot
New Member
yes standard grade is awful. i've tried putting a deck sealant in a pinch on some material (the back of the material in that the front had aluminum mounted to it. what is happening is one expanding (the side exposed to moisture), thus making both sides "different sizes" enough to warp the material. if you take mdf and sit in water, it will expand over twice it's normal thickness. so mdf and moisture are a no-no.