I put these together a few months ago and thought some one else might benefit from the idea. Supplies needed: scrap pieces of 3/4" wood and two female trap adapters (used under a kitchen or bathroom sink). The plastic-nut end of the adapter is 1.25" and works perfectly because it is built to be tightened and loosened by hand and because the Mutoh scroller (or media holder rod) is 1.25". The other end of the adapter is 1.5". Any good hardware store will have these and cost about $2.50 each. The outside piece of wood should be around 5" in diameter. The inside piece of wood (which goes inside the core) should be exactly 3" in diameter. I used a belt sander and tapered this inside piece a little toward the inside, because some cores are a bit less than 3" in diameter. I used a circle cutter and a floor drill press to cut the wood into circles. You can also do this with a router, but you would have to make a template out of some thinner wood first. For a few bucks, most any cabinet shop can make them for you. I put everything together with Shoe Goo adhesive. Before you comment on the aesthetics, I know these are not pretty. I did say scrap wood. They work like a lucky charm. Not that I'm cheap or anything, but I just couldn't see paying $200 plus for a pair of plastic flanges from Mutoh.
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DIY media flange for less than $5
- Thread starter RG
- Start date
sfr table hockey
New Member
Nice idea.....
I have another new to me CJ500 that came without flanges. I was wondering about a way to make some.
Also I find that with a large full roll (of media) the plastic flanges don't stay on the roll and gradually work their way out till the roll would fall out of the flanges. I drilled a hole on both flanges through the center of the core holding part and I run a threaded rod through the width of the media roll. With some quick thread nut, its easy to thread both ends tight to the flange core and thus hold the flanges tightly to the media roll and not work their way out.
It would be easier to make a flange that would hold nice and tight to the media core and not slip out.
I have another new to me CJ500 that came without flanges. I was wondering about a way to make some.
Also I find that with a large full roll (of media) the plastic flanges don't stay on the roll and gradually work their way out till the roll would fall out of the flanges. I drilled a hole on both flanges through the center of the core holding part and I run a threaded rod through the width of the media roll. With some quick thread nut, its easy to thread both ends tight to the flange core and thus hold the flanges tightly to the media roll and not work their way out.
It would be easier to make a flange that would hold nice and tight to the media core and not slip out.
chrisphilipps
Merchant Member
Which Mutoh printer do you have? $200 sounds like the entire metal shaft on a VJ-1204/1304. The plastic flanges for the VJ-1204/1304 are about $10 and the 3" plastic adapter is about $6.
Tiogy
New Member
Nice little bit of work there on those flanges. I have been searching for a good option for these for quite a while now and refuse to pay that kind of price for new ones. I have found that there are a few other brands of printer that use the same system and shaft size, so now I am searching for a supplier.
VinylLabs.com
New Member
pardon my ignorance, but what exactly is a flange?
VinylLabs.com
New Member
Stealth Ryder
New Member
You can buy them most likely cheaper than the time you spent making those, they do look good though...
Thanks for your comments, Tiogy & Stealth Ryder. Like I said, I just used scrap wood and never intended for any body besides me to see them. Because I have gleamed so much good information from this forum, I like go try to give back a little info when I can. Stealth, you are 100% right, buying a set of flanges would be easier than making a set. But, my shop is in a really rural area and the sign work is a part-time job for me. Seems like I have a lot more time than money. Therefore, sometimes I like to sit and think. But, mostly I just like to sit. :ROFLMAO:
Tiogy
New Member
Actually, buying flanges is not as easy as it seems. I ordered new flanges (supposedly heavy duty) from GEI and they are the exact same ones as the original light weight junk. I am still searching for alternates but, without having part numbers - it's pretty tough to know what you are getting. No body seems to have any images of the parts they have and while other brands may use the same media systems, the flanges are proving difficult to track down.
Still searching . . .
Still searching . . .
Mainframe
New Member
Here they are on the roland site, these came with my printer & I really like them, I will probably buy an extra set mostly because I am spoiled, check them out,
http://www.rolanddgastore.com/product.aspx?zpid=670
http://www.rolanddgastore.com/product.aspx?zpid=670
Tiogy
New Member
Mainframe, those look like decent flanges but, they are not the same as the Mutoh style flange which slides on a 1-1/4" shaft. It appears that the Roland flanges outer ring rests on a pair of tubes with a collar.
I ordered a pair of flanges for the ValueJet @$17 each that look like they should work. They look miles better than the original Falcon flanges @$54 each which are non-returnable.
I ordered a pair of flanges for the ValueJet @$17 each that look like they should work. They look miles better than the original Falcon flanges @$54 each which are non-returnable.
Stealth Ryder
New Member
Tiogy
New Member
Okay - here is my set of home built flanges. Material cost is under $5 each but, the pipe thread tap cost me about $40 with shipping. I am pretty happy with the results but, I had a hard time tapping the Badger Plugs in a straight manor. I think that some kind of alignment jig would help tremendously. Let me know if anyone is interested in a more complete parts list or more info.
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Way to go, Tiogy! You have proven that old saying, "There's more than one way to skin a cat." (or a Mutoh) The female trap adapters that I used were not threaded, so I dodged having to buy a tap. You are right--some type of mechanical holder for the tap and plugs would give you a straighter tapping job. Either that, or a whole lot of practice.
SlightlyChilled
New Member
I could use a set