I've been asked to quote my first flex face. I've never done one before but want to learn how. I've attached pictures of the current sign. Customer is asking us to replace both faces. It looks to me like I have to take the aluminum panels of the sides, top and bottom to be able to get access to all the tensioning hardware. Does that seem correct? Looks like we'll have to drill out all the rivets(aluminum so not too bad) and reinstall with rivets or screws. Does anyone recognize this tensioning system so I can look it up and gather more information. The current panels are blue/purple and red translucent vinyl. Is the same kind of vinyl used for face as a normal translucent? I was kind of surprised how nicely the vinyl was shaped over the corners but maybe that's just because it was tensioned well. I'm sure there will be a little bit of learning curve but any help or tips would be appreciated.
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Flex Face Install
- Thread starter AKProbeGT
- Start date
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TonyC
Guest
I would....
I haven't seen or replaced a flex face with a system like that which tensioned on the inside. I believe you are correct; you will have to remove all the panels to replace the faces using the current system. Tensioning that system appears that it may be a nightmare to me.
I would probably try to sell them a retrofit face consisting of a frame and 4" retainers. Cut out the existing face and remove existing hardware (should not require the panel removal as far as I can see). Install new face to retrofit frame on the ground, lift and attach to cabinet, finish tensioning and install new retainers.
Just my opinion.
I haven't seen or replaced a flex face with a system like that which tensioned on the inside. I believe you are correct; you will have to remove all the panels to replace the faces using the current system. Tensioning that system appears that it may be a nightmare to me.
I would probably try to sell them a retrofit face consisting of a frame and 4" retainers. Cut out the existing face and remove existing hardware (should not require the panel removal as far as I can see). Install new face to retrofit frame on the ground, lift and attach to cabinet, finish tensioning and install new retainers.
Just my opinion.
Do you have an example of such a retrofit system? I'm not opposed to trying to sell something like that. The only good thing about this system is that there are no retainers. The reason the customer wants new faces is to add more info to the sign. Any retainer is going to make the area we have to letter even smaller. Customer can't make the sign larger due to township regulations.
DigiPrinter
New Member
It's been a long time since I've done a flex face but for that system it looks like you will have to remove all of the panels. I would remove an existing face with the clips on, layout on the ground and measure for your new faces so you know where the folds go and clips (clips can slide once back on the frame if need be to remove some minor wrinkles). Remember, you'll need 4"-5" of border material to wrap the clips around.
I'm not removing anything till I know I've got the job. The faces are attached to the angle that makes up the structure. There is no removing this face without a lot of work. I was able to measure that there is 4.5" of material beyond what I measure from the face.
DigiPrinter
New Member
I didn't expect you to.....
Just saying, when you get the job, use the old faces and clip placements to measure out your new faces to speed the install up.
3m wedgeclamp system. it is actually the most popular system out there for the Very large flexface signs you see. Such as all the large hotel chains and highway signs. Reason being they are extremely cheap to produce( all 2x2' steel angle perimeter frame). these just hook around the angle and you tighten the 1/4' bolt with a 7/16" socket on an impact. You are correct, you need to remove all the top bottom and side panels to do this. Sometimes the builder will screw the next guy who has to reface these in place because they can sometimes sandwhich the bottom panel between the plate of the pole and the angle frame. making the bottom very difficult to tension. You need to do a great survey of the bottom of that sign as i see it has a pole dressing on it. make sure you do not have to remove the dressing to remove the bottom sign cover! They look scary but after doing one or two you wont sweat it.
Thank you. That makes feel more comfortable with this. Maybe it's late and I should be sleeping but would I be crazy to suggest installing polycarbonate faces by screwing them to the angle and then making trim pieces to go around the edge and cover the screws? I would have to paint the trim pieces to match the box, maybe reprint the whole cabinet but it seems a little easier to me and would make servicing the sign in the future much easier.
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TonyC
Guest
I wouldn't
The sign appears easy enough for servicing through the side access panels.I wouldn't go the pan face route with that sign; but if you do, do not screw the face to the cabinet. Get some 2" aluminum angle to make your retainers and paint to match.I would contact Milliken dist. and price a retrofit kit with them supplying the faces with vinyl overlay. Easy 1/2 day install and money in the bank. Using the existing system I could see an all day job for 2 men and lifts, a lot of cussin, drinking and smoking.
The sign appears easy enough for servicing through the side access panels.I wouldn't go the pan face route with that sign; but if you do, do not screw the face to the cabinet. Get some 2" aluminum angle to make your retainers and paint to match.I would contact Milliken dist. and price a retrofit kit with them supplying the faces with vinyl overlay. Easy 1/2 day install and money in the bank. Using the existing system I could see an all day job for 2 men and lifts, a lot of cussin, drinking and smoking.
I'll look into a retrofit. Unless I'm missing something there is no way to reach the center bulbs without taking the top off which is riveted. There are access doors on each end but they are only about 18" x 24".
I was thinking what you were, 2 guys all day to replace the existing faces with the same system. It's not that we can't do that, I'm just always looking to do things most efficiently.
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TonyC
Guest
Climb in
Just put on your big girl panties and climb in to change bulbs or ballasts.Don't use a lanyard. You don't wanna limp away from the fall.
Just put on your big girl panties and climb in to change bulbs or ballasts.Don't use a lanyard. You don't wanna limp away from the fall.
I'm 5'7", 160 lbs and I don't think I'm fitting through these access doors. I'm kind of getting off topic as it's replacing the faces that I'm really concerned about. I'm just keeping servicing in mind.
about how big is the face? Just re stretch a new face on there and service it while its apart. When it comes time to service you can take the panels off. If the customer has money to spend you could make retro frames with top hinges. Jump in and get wet they are not that difficult to change out. Where are you located
It's not real big, about 42" x 138", about 10' off the ground. I'm in Hanover. Sign is in Gettysburg. I'm just going to stick with the flex faces.
MikePro
New Member
FlexClamp system by SignComp.
Install instructions are most likely available via their website or a few emails, I haven't had to look in quite a while.
they're pretty straight-forward. I wouldn't sweat it. Look into UltraLon IV for the material and make sure you save every-single piece removed...or you'll have to buy a box of like 250pieces to replace just a couple.
Excess flexface material wraps around a metal bar, that slides into the tensioning clip, and is tightened by the nut you see on the back-end.
when it comes-down to actually tightening the faces, make sure you tighten opposing clips as you work your way around the sign face. Snug at first, and then dial-in the tension on the second go-around to pull-out all the ripples.
...also, never ever attempt to pop bubbles in your graphic with a blade, as piercing the flex face WILL lead to failure. If not immediately, then definitely over-time when wind/weather beats on it.
Install instructions are most likely available via their website or a few emails, I haven't had to look in quite a while.
they're pretty straight-forward. I wouldn't sweat it. Look into UltraLon IV for the material and make sure you save every-single piece removed...or you'll have to buy a box of like 250pieces to replace just a couple.
Excess flexface material wraps around a metal bar, that slides into the tensioning clip, and is tightened by the nut you see on the back-end.
when it comes-down to actually tightening the faces, make sure you tighten opposing clips as you work your way around the sign face. Snug at first, and then dial-in the tension on the second go-around to pull-out all the ripples.
...also, never ever attempt to pop bubbles in your graphic with a blade, as piercing the flex face WILL lead to failure. If not immediately, then definitely over-time when wind/weather beats on it.