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From bad to worse.

I

Impact Image

New Member
Arrived this morning after and overnight soak. I noticed that the yellow tube had wicked some magenta into it. I syringed it clean and then replaced the yellow damper (yes I keep spares now).

Back to test print.....NO BLACK OR CYAN....none....I can pull it through the cap tops but it's not firing anything...nothing. Yellow and magenta are good. I thought I'd damaged one of the flat cables running to the head. I swapped them with the M & Y and got the same results.

This wasn't a gradual clogging, this is a full on stop. Like no communication to the head. Anybody seen this before?


Now I have to go buy some banners from someone in another thread.
 
Gabriel

Gabriel

New Member
Check out the F2 fuse on the main board. If there are no nozzles on the test print, that's the cause for sure. It;s a small ceramic fuse 3,15 mA value. You can put another one there instead of that with a similar value (not too big - arround 4mA) and this should do the trick.
Regards
 
I

Impact Image

New Member
AAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA!!!.....Triumphant scream.


It was the F3 fuse that controls that side. They seem to run in parallel for some reason but the one was definitely bad. I don't stock 1.6amp ceramic fuses but I do have some tiny wire, a work bench, and a True Value near by. Hell, I may replace the other one too.


We're back in business. Nozzles on test prints are cleaning up too.
 

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Gabriel

Gabriel

New Member
It's not a standard fuse from glass. It's a small white ceramic fuse and it meassures less or 1 cm I suppose. It is placed on the main board.The one made of glass belongs to the power supply board.
 
I

Impact Image

New Member
Robert M said:
I there a standard glass tube fuse in that black holder? I have not seen one of those
Click to expand...

The black that you see is 5/8 shrink wrap around a fuse holder that the wires are soldered to. There is a standard glass fuse in there.

And ummmm.....you probably wouldn't have seen one of those before. :smile:


And we're not out of the woods yet. My test prints still aren't up to par but I'm not in complete panic mode like I was when I thought my new slogan was going to be "Let us print pink and yellow things for you".

I guess the good news is that the dropouts and deflections are changing. I'd like to think that there are tiny globules in there that are being sloshed around waiting to be dissolved and expelled. I don't want to think that I need new heads.

Question...why would I need to clamp the cap top hoses for a head soak? I keep seeing that suggested but the closed pump system should hold it right? I keep going back to check the levels (I'm soaking again) and they don't seem to be dropping.


Again, I'm a one man shop and it gets really lonely when s&!t is broken. It is nice to have someone to talk to. Thanks for the tips. Now I'm off to the member section to praise Mike at Insignia signs. He saved my tail today.
 
sfr table hockey

sfr table hockey

New Member
All that is inside a pump is tubing and a roller that moves and rolls against the tube causing a draw and if that roller happens to stop on the tube it would block that line but the other one may have stopped just off the tube and it may drain right through to the drain bottle. I'm sure most all pumps are like that...... are they not?
 
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