Need Help Large Depth for Signs

SamP

New Member
Hello!
I have to install a flat sign on a wall with the width of 4 ft. high and a width of 8 ft. wide of 1/8"thick aluminum composite material.
As we know when we install a flat rectangular sign on a wall without much thickness even with a nicer graphics, it does not seem to give a great feel for the sign. I have seen signs having a depth of about 1" or 1 1/2" with a nice black core. Then a flat sign installed on top of that core. That just makes the same thin sign look so much better. What is the best way to add such a depth? Any ideas will be highly appreciated.
 

2B

Member
It will depend on your construction capabilities.

We call this time of installation a "hidden frame" where the frame kept inside the dimension of the sign.

you can weld a metal frame up with square tubing, mount to the wall with hidden anchors, and then attach the substrate to the frame.
wood will also work for a frame. the installation will be the same
 

eahicks

Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
It will depend on your construction capabilities.

We call this time of installation a "hidden frame" where the frame kept inside the dimension of the sign.

you can weld a metal frame up with square tubing, mount to the wall with hidden anchors, and then attach the substrate to the frame.
wood will also work for a frame. the installation will be the same
This, or just make a pan sign.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Pan sign can be made of aluminum. If you dont have a brake long enough consider getting a larger sign shop to wholesale you a blank sign. It's called a pan or shoebox sign. Use aluminum angle brackets to mount to the wall and "rest" the sign on it and fasten it from the top and bottom.
 

GAC05

Very Active Member
Find a shop that does windows and doors. Make friends. Have them whip you up a 4x8 frame at whatever depth you need. They will have tons of anodized (black, silver, gold, or clear) extrusions that have screw races built in making it easy to build framing with clean corners and hidden hangers. They can also add a race to hold the face if you want to go that route. If you find a good one the prices will be reasonable and they will save you time and money on projects like this.
 

Michael Colella

New Member
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Colex Finishing Solutions Inc. is hosting a live webinar series every day at 3:30 PM EST. from October 26th to November 12th. Stop by to learn more about our wide format finishing equipment and how it can benefit the production of your shop. We are gifting all attendees an acrylic phone holder that is great for everyday use at your desk or work area! During the webinar please send the organizer a private message including your name, company, email and address and we will ship it to you. We hope to see you there!
https://www.colex.com
 

unclebun

Active Member
The cheapest/easiest way is to mount three 2"x4" treated lumber stringers to the wall. Cut them to 92" long. Mount them so the top of the top one is 44" from the bottom of the bottom one. Screw the 4'x8' panel to those. The stringers will be 2" in from the edge, making the panel float 1.5" away from the wall. It won't have edges visible, but it still casts a shadow and looks way better than a sheet screwed right to the metal.
 

Johnny Best

Very Active Member
I paint the pt 2x4 black and tapcon to wall vertically. If installed horizontally the rain water will hang on top and rot and cause mold on the 2x4 quicker than mounting vertical on wall for 4x8 panel, #4 42" long 2x4s spaced evenly, Buy a flat black spray can and just paint edges and top and bottom.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I paint the pt 2x4 black and tapcon to wall vertically. If installed horizontally the rain water will hang on top and rot and cause mold on the 2x4 quicker than mounting vertical on wall for 4x8 panel, #4 42" long 2x4s spaced evenly, Buy a flat black spray can and just paint edges and top and bottom.


Same here. Also, if bees or any other pests or animals decide to build a nest, you don't hafta go up there and deal with it. Just hit it from below with a power washer and 'bingo'..... they're gone in a jiffy.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I've never had rainwater collect on the 2x4 when mounted on a corrugated metal building.


So, where did that come from ?? Not all buildings/walls/installations are on corrugated structures. Anyway, your method will promote more birds nests and bees/wasps nest even more doing it that way. Granted, it's an easier instal, but what is the goal here ?? Easy instal or a good job ??
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
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Colex Finishing Solutions Inc. is hosting a live webinar series every day at 3:30 PM EST. from October 26th to November 12th. Stop by to learn more about our wide format finishing equipment and how it can benefit the production of your shop. We are gifting all attendees an acrylic phone holder that is great for everyday use at your desk or work area! During the webinar please send the organizer a private message including your name, company, email and address and we will ship it to you. We hope to see you there!
https://www.colex.com

Can you find an appropriate thread to post your stuff in? You are posting the same thing over and over in threads that have nothing to do with what you're saying.
 

unclebun

Active Member
Maybe where you live there are buildings made of things other than corrugated metal...around here when someone wants a flat sign mounted on the wall, it's almost invariably a corrugated metal building. And when we come across other kinds of buildings they almost never ask for a piece of ACM as their sign. Except for that glass on brick building we're doing this week. Maybe if I'd been to that live webinar about wide format finishing I'd care more about wasp nests.
 
I have seen signs having a depth of about 1" or 1 1/2" with a nice black core. Then a flat sign installed on top of that core. That just makes the same thin sign look so much better. What is the best way to add such a depth? Any ideas will be highly appreciated.
I suppose there is a 50/50 chance the installation is a sign for an interior wall.

InteriorRecessedMountRearView.jpg
 

Andy D

Active Member
I may be waaaaay off but... have you thought about using stand-offs?
I have backlit acrylic displays in my showroom with stand-offs & bought some
perforated aluminum corner guards, to box it in and hide the wires, but still allow halo lighting & they turned out great.

upload_2020-10-28_20-53-2.png
 

signbrad

Member
If you don't have a brake but want to make a pan, just attach angle aluminum to the back perimeter.

Brad in Kansas City.
 

SamP

New Member
I suppose there is a 50/50 chance the installation is a sign for an interior wall.

View attachment 149964
It is for an exterior wall. I am sorry. I did not say it earlier. Most of the responders seem to have assumed it that way. I am just curious about this black frame shown above. Can this be used outdoors? What are the sizes does this come in? Where do you get this? I suppose you can mount a flat sign onto it.
 
I am just curious about this black frame shown above. Can this be used outdoors? What are the sizes does this come in? Where do you get this? I suppose you can mount a flat sign onto it.
These frame types come from the likes of Nielsen. 96 inch aluminum sticks cut to length. I *think* the photo might show profile #95. Be aware, many sources of many sorts are in the state of flux and not just due to the current pandemic. Mergers, acquisitions, trimming operations / products, etc.
 
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