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Lobby sign I thought turned out nice.

jkdbjj

New Member
3_custom9_4.jpg
This was one of our first standoff projects. Gotta start somewhere I suppose. Since then we sell them a lot to interior designers etc...
 

MikePro

New Member
nice work! I'da just gone 4 corners with it, but that could just be me nit-picking other ppl's work :)
do you use the "Stand-Off systems" brand? just curious.
 

jkdbjj

New Member
As I said it was my first trip around the block on standoffs, so it was a little overkill! Yeah those were standoff brand.

Currently I use a type that Displays2go sells, cause if I order so many I get a nice discount compared to other places, and they are always stocked up.

What do you use?
 

MikePro

New Member
thanks for the link, CO! i've always used displays2go but your site seems to be less cluttered with junk displays/pop stuff.

i only ask, because stand-off systems' brand are like 800% more expensive than most other brands I can find. stopped buying them a LONG time ago :)
 

gnemmas

New Member
Nice job!

I noticed the glare from the ceiling lights, may try to use non-glare clear acrylic for that purpose.
 

HulkSmash

New Member
thanks for the link, CO! i've always used displays2go but your site seems to be less cluttered with junk displays/pop stuff.

i only ask, because stand-off systems' brand are like 800% more expensive than most other brands I can find. stopped buying them a LONG time ago :)

I pay about 70 bucks for 50 offsets. when i was paying like 35 for 4....
 

10sacer

New Member
Depends on size and material, too.

I get 1" x 1" brushed aluminum from Outwater for $2.68 ea. with mounting hardware
 

GP

New Member
Nice sign. How are you cutting and drilling the acrylic?

crackin' boards and wasting dollars,

GP
 

jkdbjj

New Member
Nice sign. How are you cutting and drilling the acrylic?

crackin' boards and wasting dollars,

GP
I don't have an CNC or anything like that. So on this project the letters went to Gemini. The back piece is lexan so I just drilled the holes into that. The orange shape we hand cut with manual router.

The job just opened more doors for us when we were starting up, in that it forced us to try something new.
 

10sacer

New Member
Sunbelt Sign Supply will custom rout anyting you want. Might be good if you bought the material from them, though.

PM me, I have a local resource that I use if you need cutting/routing again.
 

jkdbjj

New Member
Sunbelt Sign Supply will custom rout anyting you want. Might be good if you bought the material from them, though.

PM me, I have a local resource that I use if you need cutting/routing again.
I actually used Sunbelt for a Carowinds job I did. They are great guys over there.
I'll let you know if anything comes up. Thanks!
 

JTBoh

I sell signage and signage accessories.
cutting acrylic for us =
4-5 drill bits

start small, work your way up.
usually 1 small, 1 medium, 2 larges with small differenences.

I'll get to the last bit, and this may sound crazy... but run it backwards for a bit and it'll clear the burs you get from bigger bits. i usually let the drill rotate about 1/2 of a revolution (gives you like 1-8" to 1-4" long strip of acrylic) on TorQ1 before reversing and clearing the bur... and then rinse/repeating.
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
cutting acrylic for us =
4-5 drill bits

start small, work your way up.
usually 1 small, 1 medium, 2 larges with small differenences.

I'll get to the last bit, and this may sound crazy... but run it backwards for a bit and it'll clear the burs you get from bigger bits. i usually let the drill rotate about 1/2 of a revolution (gives you like 1-8" to 1-4" long strip of acrylic) on TorQ1 before reversing and clearing the bur... and then rinse/repeating.

too many chances for error that way. i just put a piece of wood/or sintra under the sign and one on top, clamp it down and drill away!
 

2B

Active Member
we use 2 bits
1 small for pilot hole then the needed sizes.

make sure the bits are SHARP, the drill speed is slow and the driller does not put a lot of pressure let the machine do the work.
 

Mike Paul

Super Active Member
too many chances for error that way. i just put a piece of wood/or sintra under the sign and one on top, clamp it down and drill away!

This; and start with a small pilot hole mark in case it walks.

+ A quality drill bit and light pressure.
 

Rick

Certified Enneadecagon Designer
Nice for one of your first ones...

I'm over stand-offs but when I do use them, I like using frosted vinyl, translucent acrylics, or backspray panels like this... an eager janitor with a bottle of windex will make that sign look like crap in no time if that cleaner get's on the backside...or instruct the client to spray the towel then wipe the panel. And like Gnemmas, glare can blow out the letters/logo.
 
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