Maxx2 banding problem

[meltsner]

Hi folks--

We're having problems with the Maxx -- the picture below pretty well says it all. I've played around quite a bit with various halftone types/LPI's, but with a lower halftone, 40 lpi or lower, image is too coarse for something that will be viewed fairly close. With a higher (from 50 on up) lpi, it causes serious banding, and of course around 90 or so, color deterioration also.

Obviously we must specify a proper halftone because of the linear fill (it's a 45 deg. if you're wondering, thus the angled banding). I've tried both spot (burgundy & black) and process (which is definitely better) with various lpi's. I believe the one in the pic is 55 lpi. I am using Classical Dot by the way.

What is to be done?? I am at a loss as for what to do. We've printed photos on the Maxx that looked excellent at an 80lpi.

Thanks for any help anybody can give!!

 

[Tony Teveris]

I have not printed on a MAXX in ages but I would select a different halftone and from home here I can not remember the others (Gerber Tone MAXX and another)

 

[meltsner]

Classical Dot / GerberTone / GerberTone Fine / GerberTone Long / Spiral Dot / Stochastic and for images, GerberTone Photo / GerberTone STC Photo and GerberTone Artwork. There's a few of 'em!

After reading the maual and looking at some of Gerber's Fastfacts, my conclusion was that I should be using Classical Dot for this application (vehicle decal). At least with that I could edit the LPI.

I know a bunch of people print with the Edge (and yes, know the Maxx is outdated for the most part), but is there a big difference between the two? In the 2.6 manual, it gives more specific instructions for the Maxx concerning halftones, pretty well claiming you can't use higher than a 40 or 50 lpi. I don't get the banding part at 50 lpi though. Can't have much to do with the fountain steps (should be 50 steps or so). Perhaps the Maxx just doesn't do this. Thought of converting it to a TIFF or JPEG and adding a cutline, but it's a good bit of work.

Anyway, we'll keep playing with it and see what happens.

 

[Karen Souza]

Meltsner,
I've have never had alot of luck printed gradient fades with a higher LPI. Don't know if it's the software or machine (Edge or Maxx,have them both) I use alot of gradient fades so, I create my job in Omega including all fills, colors, fades etc. Export to photoshop as a .bmp (just my preference)and add "Noise" a filter in photoshopto any gradient fades in my job (range of 1-3) depending on the physical size if the gradient I'm doing. Smaller size, smaller number. What happens if you add to much "noise" it looks real grainy. But it will get around the banding. Straight out print w/ spot colors only are really trial & error, some work some don't. I hope this helps. If you have problems or need further help your welcome to call me at work 508-758-9692.
Karen Souza

 

[meltsner]

Thank you Karen, we've just left it for now -- and yes the decal's for us so it's not that big a deal -- we were just going to do it in vinyl (solid), but that is worth a try.

I tried adding noise in PhotoPaint, I can easily see your point there, it should help. We'll give that a try, see how it turns out. I just wasn't sure about adding a cutline, but it just comes to mind to just paste the existing cutline on top as best I can. Yeah, we're still learning all of this after 3 years of playing with Gerber!!!