mdo vs metal faced mdo

[infinitesign]

Recently, I had a customer that wanted a typical, flat painted sign, and I usually use regular MDO. I have had good luck with MDO, having signs out there that have yet to peel after 12 years. The ones that have been out there the longest were painted using my old method. Caulk the edges, latex primer, 2 coats of one shot for top coat.

This customer I speak of, was dead set on having metal faced MDO because she said hubby said it lasted longer. So, after cutting out this intricate shape, painting it the custom color that they requested, I realized that I had to caulk, prime and paint the edges anyway. It was way too much for trim cap. And now the question.... Does it last any longer in that case?

 

[Mosh]

I would say the metal is not going to rot ever. If you had used one of the pre-finished colors it would have lasted twice as long as painting it yourself. Hard to beat the baked on finish. So I would say they were right until you painted yourself now I don't see it lasting any longer that the MDO.

latex primer, 2 coats of one shot for top coat.

Latex primer and one shot top coat? Not a good combo. Water based under enamel, suprised it stays on.
When using Ronan we spray on two coats of Ronan primer, heat it and let it sit for at least 8 hours.
Then spray on 2-3 coats of Ronan, heat it and let it set overnight. Then spray on 2-3 coats of clear, heat it then
letter it the next day.

http://www.ronanpaints.com/primers.htm



Prefinished materials are way easier!

 

[Gino]

The faces will probably do well, but the edges are bound to de-laminate.

I would ponder a sealant that works well with both wood and metal properties due to expansion and contraction of totally different rates at the same time.... and that ain't caulk.

 

[wes70]

If you're going to paint it then I would go with mdo. I have had Lusterboard delaminate (nothing major) on the edges and the raw aluminum backside corrode... although the sign is close to saltwater.

 

[Pat Whatley]

I HATE the stuff with the metal face. It seems to trap moisture under the metal face and rot out the wood in no time. If you've got a screw in the face and water seeps under it the wood will separate from the metal, the metal with expand and contract until it stretches itself and looks like an ever-growing blister. It also seems to delaminate no matter what you do to the edges. We recently replaced 8 signs done by another company on the stuff. The face looked okay from the road but there were literally layers of rotted, delaminated plywood hanging out of the bottom and sides of the signs. The signs had edge banding applied with silicon on all 4 edges and still rotted out.

 

[Larry L]

I HATE the stuff with the metal face. It seems to trap moisture under the metal face and rot out the wood in no time. If you've got a screw in the face and water seeps under it the wood will separate from the metal, the metal with expand and contract until it stretches itself and looks like an ever-growing blister. It also seems to delaminate no matter what you do to the edges. We recently replaced 8 signs done by another company on the stuff. The face looked okay from the road but there were literally layers of rotted, delaminated plywood hanging out of the bottom and sides of the signs. The signs had edge banding applied with silicon on all 4 edges and still rotted out.

I use Gorrilla or Elmers equiv. glue and edge trim edges. Make sure you watch out for oozing. Sealing is critical especially if using treated lumber.

(See thread in tips)

 

[Larry L]

I would say the metal is not going to rot ever. If you had used one of the pre-finished colors it would have lasted twice as long as painting it yourself. Hard to beat the baked on finish. So I would say they were right until you painted yourself now I don't see it lasting any longer that the MDO.



Latex primer and one shot top coat? Not a good combo. Water based under enamel, suprised it stays on.
When using Ronan we spray on two coats of Ronan primer, heat it and let it sit for at least 8 hours.
Then spray on 2-3 coats of Ronan, heat it and let it set overnight. Then spray on 2-3 coats of clear, heat it then
letter it the next day.

http://www.ronanpaints.com/primers.htm



Prefinished materials are way easier!

That what "J Cook" primer recommends!

 

[Larry L]

I would say the metal is not going to rot ever. If you had used one of the pre-finished colors it would have lasted twice as long as painting it yourself. Hard to beat the baked on finish. So I would say they were right until you painted yourself now I don't see it lasting any longer that the MDO.



Latex primer and one shot top coat? Not a good combo. Water based under enamel, suprised it stays on.
When using Ronan we spray on two coats of Ronan primer, heat it and let it sit for at least 8 hours.
Then spray on 2-3 coats of Ronan, heat it and let it set overnight. Then spray on 2-3 coats of clear, heat it then
letter it the next day.

http://www.ronanpaints.com/primers.htm



Prefinished materials are way easier!

I have struggled using Luster for the mentioned reasons, plus it cost more. I have dampened and smeared Gorilla glue on the edges of MDO. Is there a better way of sealing them?

I started trying Benjamen Moor Super Spec pearl, latex, a high quality paint instead of the one shot bulletin because it was yellowing a lot and I wanted to get out of oil for large surfaces. Grimco sells pre painted white, but I was unsure about it's durability. The paint just looks thin.

 

[Wes Phifer]

Why not alumalite?

 

[Mosh]

Why not alumalite?

Last time I checked Alumalite is an aluminum faced panel. Again if you are using a standard color alumalite, or similar product, it will last longer. Custom color is up in the air.

 

[Wes Phifer]

Everything mentioned before was aluminum face on a wood panel. Alumalite is aluminum with a corrogated plastic core. That is why I brought it up.

 

[Mosh]

Sorry, I would not use the wood stuff, it will rot.

 

[Wes Phifer]

Indeed

 

[Checkers]

I agree with Pat's comments and I still prefer the better grades of MDO over most other substrates.

Checkers