Mimaki Converted to Chinese Printer

Parissan_Print

New Member
Hello,

My name is Fajar. First of all, sorry for my bad English and bad writings.

I like to share about my experience and hope you guys would like to share your knowledges so I can learn more. I have no experience in the printing industry but love to learn.

It all start when my wife wants to make personalized waterproof, dishwasher-proof sticker for kids. and I learned that to be able to make that sticker I need Eco-Solvent printer and print on a vinyl sticker. But the cheapest desktop Eco Solvent printer is still beyond our budget. I tried to convert normal desktop printer into eco solvent printer but no success. Even though the printer can print with eco solvent ink, still cannot print on vinyl. Perhaps because there is no heater.

Later, I found this company from China who sell a Printer Conversion Kit using XP600 printhead.

839999ad-62a9-4866-9987-f8382da08bcc.JPG

Lucky I found someone who wants to sell a broken MIMAKI JV3-130SPII for a very cheap price. All original printheads already gone. Then I strip it all, throw the original boards and things that doesn't need and put the conversion kit.

IMG_2272.JPG PHOTO-2020-10-30-22-00-52.jpg

It was a big job and took me several months to finish it (as I also have a job). The printer now can print. But, even though I still not satisfy with the result. I ask for advise to a guy who work in the printing and signage industry for over 30 years. He told me that the result was good but not best, and he said it because the RIP. The company who sold the system said their kit can only work with Maintop or Photoprint.

Here are some of the printing (scanned with EPSON WF-7725 scanner)

img20210331_21020458.jpg img20210331_21045799.jpg

I know the price speak it self. But I'm hoping members here would share their knowledge and experience to guide me to bring the best result from this printer. I'm not expecting to beat HP, MIMAKI, ROLAND or other big brand. I just sure that there is still room for improvement.

As I said before, I have no experience in printing equipment. When I did this project I was like someone who bake a pizza but never eats pizza :)

Thanks in advance.

Best regards..
 

romeo-blue

New Member
How are you doing until today with the color settings with MAINTOP, all right? I have one of these machines running.
The XP600 head is extremely cheap, it does the job 100%.
 

Parissan_Print

New Member
How are you doing until today with the color settings with MAINTOP, all right? I have one of these machines running.
The XP600 head is extremely cheap, it does the job 100%.
Hi romeo-blue,

Doing good. the machine is making money :)

not the best but do the job. setting color to match customer request still hard to do. any advise to set color to match color on screen? thanks
 

romeo-blue

New Member
Hi Parissan_Print, Use this setting in MAINTOP, and use the black color as follows: C: 85 / M: 85 / Y: 85 / K: 85
It works very well for me. You give your client a good impression with a durability of one year. This without transparent protection.

I hope you hear!
 

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Parissan_Print

New Member
Hi Parissan_Print, Use this setting in MAINTOP, and use the black color as follows: C: 85 / M: 85 / Y: 85 / K: 85
It works very well for me. You give your client a good impression with a durability of one year. This without transparent protection.

I hope you hear!
Hi Romeo-blue,
Thanks for sharing your setup. Have you try printing some small stickers? Thanks
 

romeo-blue

New Member
Hey Mr. Parissan_Print.
Could you share your printhead CMYK print test with me? Seeing that could tell you if your head is working at 100% to print small.

Now, for small printing use another configuration. Could you show me that you want to print.
 

Parissan_Print

New Member
Hi romeo-blue,

I have attached picture of stickers that i print. Is you can see I cannot get solid blue. It seems broken and grainy even though I have set to highest resolution. Do you also get same pattern like this?

I have also attached picture of my nozzle test.

thank you
 

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MikePro

Member
nozzles appear to all be firing but the Cyan & Magenta appear to have a haze of ink around the pattern that could be causing your graininess.
 

AlsEU

New Member
When did you check the head calibrations for the last time? Maybe this file is not good to judge this, but seems that you have something wrong with the colour-2-colour calibration, could you check this?
 

Parissan_Print

New Member
When did you check the head calibrations for the last time? Maybe this file is not good to judge this, but seems that you have something wrong with the colour-2-colour calibration, could you check this?
Hi AlsEu,

Thank you for replying this thread. I really appreciate it

Can you explain me how to colour-2-clour calibration? I did Angle Check and Vertical Check, I did X and Y alignment.
 

MikePro

Member
I'm only experienced with the original machine you converted, and the original Epson printheads that were built-into it.
whenever I had that level of haze on a printhead, I replaced it and the problem went away.

i would be inquiring with the printhead/conversion supplier as to why these "brand new" printheads aren't firing 100% clean. The printheads might be fine, but some other setting/connection may be to blame.... but honestly, there's too many unknowns for me to attempt to diagnose.

i just merely noticed that the nozzle check had the same haze issue you have in your print file, which are supposed to be perfectly-clean straight lines of nozzles firing with no ink between them. Profiles or print files would have no effect, so your issue is within the printhead up through its electrical components and into the printer.
 
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AlsEU

New Member
Hi AlsEu,

Thank you for replying this thread. I really appreciate it

Can you explain me how to colour-2-clour calibration? I did Angle Check and Vertical Check, I did X and Y alignment.
First of all - is the problem similar in each print mode? Maybe you should check tests hidden in the service #ADJUST/PRNadjust2 menu. I'm not a Mimaki specialist, but for me it looks like a calibration problem (and not necessarily hardware calibration, maybe just the print calibration for separate colours).
 
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