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Mutoh 628 error ID-85

Racegrafix

New Member
Old printhead gave this error. Replaced head, tried many cleanings, couldnt get two channels to work on new printhead. Replaced cables. Error 85. replaced cables again error 85.
 

unmateria

New Member
Hi! Check all mainboard fuses first. If all ok, check resistance in pin1 from every flat cable from the mainboard to the cr board (where u connect printhead cables) just to check they are correctly aligned. If all ok, check from the cr board to the printhead pins (ser photo) with the cable connected to see if they are aligned too. If all ok, im sorry but surely printheads were damaged, usually for reusing the same cable after a printhead replace or connected in reverse (have seen both sometimes).
Do everything always with printer off (without current at all) IMG_20221022_120103.jpg
 

unmateria

New Member
Thats very good. With a little luck no transistors death. Replace the fuses with the same ones, and be sure cables are perfectly aligned with the pins this time. Be sure with the position in the printhead too... They are not swappable. Be extremely carefull with those cables... Are the worst I ever seen on this kind of machines and is very easy to not align them correcly in the pins.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Thats very good. With a little luck no transistors death. Replace the fuses with the same ones, and be sure cables are perfectly aligned with the pins this time. Be sure with the position in the printhead too... They are not swappable. Be extremely carefull with those cables... Are the worst I ever seen on this kind of machines and is very easy to not align them correcly in the pins.
The cables are horrible. The official rating is that they can be installed 3 times before failing.
 

Racegrafix

New Member
Ive replaced fuses, and that cleared error. Still no ink flowing at printhead though. The only thing I havent replaced I think are the boards, the case, and the stand.

the cables are new
 

unmateria

New Member
Charge the printhead manually with ink (suck slowly with a siringe from both tubes with an Y connector until you have some ml in the syringe) and try to print without doing a cleaning after that. If it prints absolutely nothing... The normal cause is those 8 big transistors in the black cooler are fried... Its very typical. Try to replace all 8 (its not easy but you dont loose but some dollars and some time). Be carefull because there are 2 kind of transistors (a1746 and c4131 usually on rolands and mutohs) If it doesnt work, i suggest changing both, motherboard and printhead at the same time. I had that problem in a 1204 and the old printhead keeped to blow the fuses (and thanks it was only the fuses) until I replaced it. If you want to test the printhead you can buy a cheap Epson 4880 or r2400 (and swapping the printhead cap top with a ecosolvent one)... I tell you because dx5 now are expensive. I only did that once with a 4880 and printhead lasted like 9 months (but it was a really old 4880 we bought on earlys 2000)

At least you learn one thing... Always you mess with that cables, replace them. Every time you replace printhead, replace those devil cables
 

Racegrafix

New Member
Charge the printhead manually with ink (suck slowly with a siringe from both tubes with an Y connector until you have some ml in the syringe) and try to print without doing a cleaning after that. If it prints absolutely nothing... The normal cause is those 8 big transistors in the black cooler are fried... Its very typical. Try to replace all 8 (its not easy but you dont loose but some dollars and some time). Be carefull because there are 2 kind of transistors (a1746 and c4131 usually on rolands and mutohs) If it doesnt work, i suggest changing both, motherboard and printhead at the same time. I had that problem in a 1204 and the old printhead keeped to blow the fuses (and thanks it was only the fuses) until I replaced it. If you want to test the printhead you can buy a cheap Epson 4880 or r2400 (and swapping the printhead cap top with a ecosolvent one)... I tell you because dx5 now are expensive. I only did that once with a 4880 and printhead lasted like 9 months (but it was a really old 4880 we bought on earlys 2000)

At least you learn one thing... Always you mess with that cables, replace them. Every time you replace printhead, replace those devil cables
Ive already replaced dampers, cap top, pump, printhead, cartridges, fuses, cables, and primed the dampers, tried pulling ink manually, etc.
Ive tried many cleanings, and it just wont pull ink. Its not blowing fuses now, I think the old printhead caused that.

Which transistors would cause that issue? picture by any chance? I will replace them for the hell of it.
 
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Racegrafix

New Member
I have in the past, but I just tried it and nothing but air. Seal looks perfectly lined up. Looks like good pressure against cap. tried wetting cap. Nothing but air.
 

unmateria

New Member
I tell you because ink is not going to go to the printhead from the dampers if cap is bad and of course is not going to print anything! The pump has to spot ink, little, but you have to see it spitting all black
 

Racegrafix

New Member
When I pull ink manually, its just air.

printer only has cleaning fluid in it, its never had actual ink since ive been fighting this issue. So printhead has never seen actual ink.

printhead is new, cap is new (oem).
I pulled printhead back out to make sure it was hitting correct spot, and yes, it was centered perfectly.
 

Racegrafix

New Member
maybe more downward force? I think only lowering printhead would do that, but no idea if thats a thing or how to do it.
 

unmateria

New Member
You are sucking from both pump tubes at the same time?

If not, do you see cleaning liquid spitting of the pump while doing a "little charge" or a "complete "charge"? (Or some long cleanings, but is better to do a " little charge")

No, dont lower the printhead yet. Just look if its between 1.2 and 2mm from the bed (not the cap), its above 2 mm, you can lower it a little by moving the white excentric nuts on the carriage.

Look first those 3 things and we will see what to do
 

Racegrafix

New Member
I was having syringe issue, so I was pulling from one, with closed syringe on the other and the 3rd blocked. I can clearly hear and feel the air moving at the cap with printhead moved out of the way. I stuck a card over the cap to test seal, and pulled suction. It really didnt do much, and didnt stop the air flow. The seal looks perfect. It did previously work, because it would move cleaner through it and print cleaning fluid onto material...but only two channels.

where would I see fluid spitting from the pump?
 

Racegrafix

New Member
I bought another cap top to try, non oem. I know everyone hates non oem, but I am not a fan of oem parts that dont work either. I bought the oem and it hasnt printed a single thing and Im pretty sure its bad. It absolutely wont seal to pull suction.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
I bought another cap top to try, non oem. I know everyone hates non oem, but I am not a fan of oem parts that dont work either. I bought the oem and it hasnt printed a single thing and Im pretty sure its bad. It absolutely wont seal to pull suction.
In my experience the DX5/DX7 aftermarket cap tops tend to be good quality as long as they look similar to the OEM ones. The ones that have plastic screens in them instead of metal tend to be the worst. But compared to other aftermarket cap tops most of them are legit.
 

unmateria

New Member
Put ink with a syringe in cap borders just to test if its the cap or the complete station. I usually dissasemble all station because sometimes tubes get broken inside since are silicon instead of teflon. Anyway I usually replace full station (not original) instead of only the cap.
 
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