Need feedback to improve cut performance. Just finished 2,000 of these. Best practice input requested

[MGB_LE]

This is the eucaboard material from Home Depot, in 48x96" sheets: Eucaboard Info. We are simply cutting out 52 6" x 11" boards. Most do OK, but the last row sees some boards start to lose suction and move around. Then they aren't cut square. We have used Colex bits T00498 and T00535, and the boards are fuzzy and require sanding to get clean edges. Normally we do 52 at a time, but the client ordered 2,000 and we weren't really ready to scale up.
We're running CCC8 on our 60x120" Colex. I've attached photos of the during and after, and the finished product. We used a belt sander to clean up the edges. What can we do to keep the boards still and square? Tabs might significantly increase the final finishing time. Please educate us.

 

[MGB_LE]

It's evident that some cut out square, while others near the edge of the board, sometimes move around during the cut.
Bits we tried:
The T00498 Upcut Router Bit is universal and meant for cutting soft plastic, hard wood, soft wood, and gator board. The bit has a 1” Cut Length.
The T00535 Upcut Router Bit is a universal bit that is used for cutting soft platic, hard plastic, acrylic, and Di Bond. 5/16” cut length.
What feedback do you have for us to improve the results?

 

[jfiscus]

Use clamps, screws or another fixture to hold the project piece to the spoilboard so that it doesn't move while cutting. We experience a lot of movement of ABS board on our router and always have to fight with it. Resurfacing your spoilboard and sealing the side edges should also help improve vacuum performance.

 

[Raum Divarco]

This is the eucaboard material from Home Depot, in 48x96" sheets: Eucaboard Info. We are simply cutting out 52 6" x 11" boards. Most do OK, but the last row sees some boards start to lose suction and move around. Then they aren't cut square. We have used Colex bits T00498 and T00535, and the boards are fuzzy and require sanding to get clean edges. Normally we do 52 at a time, but the client ordered 2,000 and we weren't really ready to scale up.
We're running CCC8 on our 60x120" Colex. I've attached photos of the during and after, and the finished product. We used a belt sander to clean up the edges. What can we do to keep the boards still and square? Tabs might significantly increase the final finishing time. Please educate us.

this type of material, like masonite is a pain.
it is rather messy and can eat up tooling.

if a clean smooth edge is not required i would consider a larger diameter down bit and increase the gutter spacing between pieces.
down bit will knock don some of the fuzzy aspects of the cuts.
i would not consider a compression bit as it wont last.

while there are many instances i would avoid using tabs or bridges, this is a good candidate for that process.
if the edge isnt key you can always pull off the tabbed mostly cut sheets and strip out on a table to allow machine time to resume on the next sheet.

with the above 2 ideas in mind i wouldnt try to change cut sequence.
you do not have a mdf spoilboard to drill into.
but if you wanted to, you could take the router mat off and find pegboard or similar for airflow for hold down and screw to that piece to prevent moving.

or you could also leave 3 pieces in each corners to cut last to have solid pieces to help hold the sheet in place on the router mat.

 

[MGB_LE]

I didn't think about splitting the cut layers to maybe have 3 or 4 boards be the last ones that cut, to help hold the sheet in place.

 

[Raum Divarco]

I didn't think about splitting the cut layers to maybe have 3 or 4 boards be the last ones that cut, to help hold the sheet in place.

before moving to technical services i was an operator for a while.
For those pieces in the corners, sometimes i dont cut them all the way thru or use tape for some select high spots on the cutting mat to give myself some spots the better strip from.
it is usually better to manually sand a handful to save the rest of the sheet.

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

Have you tried a foam mat also known as sticky mats? This will help prevent the parts from moving around.

 

[MGB_LE]

Have you tried a foam mat also known as sticky mats? This will help prevent the parts from moving around.

I haven't heard of sticky mats. I'll look into that.

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

I doubt a mat will adhere for long with the amount of dust that comes off this stuff...

You'd be surprised, we used one of our sticky mats for cutting 50 sheets of MDF with no issues. BTW, the "Sticky" mats aren't really sticky, they are just a porous cellular foam that has a lot of air pockets to create additional points of suction and grip.

 

[bear essentials]

You might try a downcut bit like the T00501.

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[Print1]

It's evident that some cut out square, while others near the edge of the board, sometimes move around during the cut.
Bits we tried:
The T00498 Upcut Router Bit is universal and meant for cutting soft plastic, hard wood, soft wood, and gator board. The bit has a 1” Cut Length.
The T00535 Upcut Router Bit is a universal bit that is used for cutting soft platic, hard plastic, acrylic, and Di Bond. 5/16” cut length.
What feedback do you have for us to improve the results?

You would greatly benefit from splitting your cut into a 2 part pass, Depending on the software version you have you can also lead in vertically to reduce your lateral friction from side to side. Enter your material thickness IE .500
then your depth per pass : .250
final depth: .00
you have now created a two pass job, There are many variations to this method but you will not need to use bridges. If you have more questions please let me know.

 

[Print1]

You'd be surprised, we used one of our sticky mats for cutting 50 sheets of MDF with no issues. BTW, the "Sticky" mats aren't really sticky, they are just a porous cellular foam that has a lot of air pockets to create additional points of suction and grip.

Funny Fact, You can use MDF as your spoiler table.. Simply get the MDF, mill .020 off the top to level it out, And boom, vac still works and you can cut into it. Great for Reverse bullnose and other advanced routing.

 

[Josh Martinez]

It's evident that some cut out square, while others near the edge of the board, sometimes move around during the cut.
Bits we tried:
The T00498 Upcut Router Bit is universal and meant for cutting soft plastic, hard wood, soft wood, and gator board. The bit has a 1” Cut Length.
The T00535 Upcut Router Bit is a universal bit that is used for cutting soft platic, hard plastic, acrylic, and Di Bond. 5/16” cut length.
What feedback do you have for us to improve the results?

We have a 2 customers that cut this material that I know off. First customer has great vacuum and stack 4 sheets at a time and use our 2 flute compression 3/8" tool XC2023-M. 20,000 RPM at 500 IPM https://www.xedgetools.com/product-...mpression-series/cobra-mortising-compression/

Second customer uses our low helix 3 flute tool 1/4" Razor tool XR2062-CB 17,000 RPM at 600 IPM. https://www.xedgetools.com/product/xr2062-cb-1-4/

If your parts are still moving we do offer a vacuum hold down mat that may help you. https://www.xedgetools.com/product-category/accessories/vacuum-hold-down-enhancers/

Hope this helps you, good luck and let it rip!

Josh

 

[MGB_LE]

You'd be surprised, we used one of our sticky mats for cutting 50 sheets of MDF with no issues. BTW, the "Sticky" mats aren't really sticky, they are just a porous cellular foam that has a lot of air pockets to create additional points of suction and grip.

Do you have a link for this mat?

 

[Josh Martinez]

Do you have a link for this mat?

Vacuum Hold Down Enhancers Archives - X-Edge

X-Edge MatriX Mat created for significantly enhancing the hold down of smaller CNC routed parts, or where underperforming vacuum pumps are utilized.

www.xedgetools.com

 

[MGB_LE]

Would these do better being laser cut? We're also looking at a way to produce 300, 500 qty without needing to do the cleanup. This material is formaldehyde-free so it wouldn't release toxic fumes during laser-cutting. Just not sure who to farm out to in the Dallas, TX area and what it would cost.

 

[James Burke]

Would these do better being laser cut? We're also looking at a way to produce 300, 500 qty without needing to do the cleanup. This material is formaldehyde-free so it wouldn't release toxic fumes during laser-cutting. Just not sure who to farm out to in the Dallas, TX area and what it would cost.

100% agree.


JB

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

Laser would work well as long as burnt edges are acceptable.

Here is our favorite stick mat so far, haven't tried many others up to this point though: https://superiorcarbide.com/superior-grip-roll-100-feet

 

[squaregoco]

I have run this type of job many times. Material is too thin to use a compression bit so I go with a two bit setup. Do you have atc on your machine? First pass on the whole sheet with a down cut spiral at 1/4 material depth, second pass at full depth plus .003 with a upcut spiral. More machine time but zero cleanup. I will adjust the first pass depth deeper as the edge of the bit wears. For tricky areas that move I will just mist a little 3M Spray 77 on the soil board. You could also consider making a dedicated gasket board of some type, more info on that here SPOIL BOARD GASKETING

 

[Print1]

You can always use the lead in lead out function, that would allow you to change the forces on the end of the cuts.