Need feedback to improve cut performance. Just finished 2,000 of these. Best practice input requested

MGB_LE

New Member
This is the eucaboard material from Home Depot, in 48x96" sheets: Eucaboard Info. We are simply cutting out 52 6" x 11" boards. Most do OK, but the last row sees some boards start to lose suction and move around. Then they aren't cut square. We have used Colex bits T00498 and T00535, and the boards are fuzzy and require sanding to get clean edges. Normally we do 52 at a time, but the client ordered 2,000 and we weren't really ready to scale up.
We're running CCC8 on our 60x120" Colex. I've attached photos of the during and after, and the finished product. We used a belt sander to clean up the edges. What can we do to keep the boards still and square? Tabs might significantly increase the final finishing time. Please educate us.
 

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MGB_LE

New Member
It's evident that some cut out square, while others near the edge of the board, sometimes move around during the cut.
Bits we tried:
The T00498 Upcut Router Bit is universal and meant for cutting soft plastic, hard wood, soft wood, and gator board. The bit has a 1” Cut Length.
The T00535 Upcut Router Bit is a universal bit that is used for cutting soft platic, hard plastic, acrylic, and Di Bond. 5/16” cut length.
What feedback do you have for us to improve the results?
 

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jfiscus

Map Wraster
Use clamps, screws or another fixture to hold the project piece to the spoilboard so that it doesn't move while cutting. We experience a lot of movement of ABS board on our router and always have to fight with it. Resurfacing your spoilboard and sealing the side edges should also help improve vacuum performance.
 

Raum Divarco

Application Specialist CUTWORX / Amcad & Graphics
This is the eucaboard material from Home Depot, in 48x96" sheets: Eucaboard Info. We are simply cutting out 52 6" x 11" boards. Most do OK, but the last row sees some boards start to lose suction and move around. Then they aren't cut square. We have used Colex bits T00498 and T00535, and the boards are fuzzy and require sanding to get clean edges. Normally we do 52 at a time, but the client ordered 2,000 and we weren't really ready to scale up.
We're running CCC8 on our 60x120" Colex. I've attached photos of the during and after, and the finished product. We used a belt sander to clean up the edges. What can we do to keep the boards still and square? Tabs might significantly increase the final finishing time. Please educate us.
this type of material, like masonite is a pain.
it is rather messy and can eat up tooling.

if a clean smooth edge is not required i would consider a larger diameter down bit and increase the gutter spacing between pieces.
down bit will knock don some of the fuzzy aspects of the cuts.
i would not consider a compression bit as it wont last.

while there are many instances i would avoid using tabs or bridges, this is a good candidate for that process.
if the edge isnt key you can always pull off the tabbed mostly cut sheets and strip out on a table to allow machine time to resume on the next sheet.

with the above 2 ideas in mind i wouldnt try to change cut sequence.
you do not have a mdf spoilboard to drill into.
but if you wanted to, you could take the router mat off and find pegboard or similar for airflow for hold down and screw to that piece to prevent moving.

or you could also leave 3 pieces in each corners to cut last to have solid pieces to help hold the sheet in place on the router mat.
 

MGB_LE

New Member
I didn't think about splitting the cut layers to maybe have 3 or 4 boards be the last ones that cut, to help hold the sheet in place.
 

Raum Divarco

Application Specialist CUTWORX / Amcad & Graphics
I didn't think about splitting the cut layers to maybe have 3 or 4 boards be the last ones that cut, to help hold the sheet in place.
before moving to technical services i was an operator for a while.
For those pieces in the corners, sometimes i dont cut them all the way thru or use tape for some select high spots on the cutting mat to give myself some spots the better strip from.
it is usually better to manually sand a handful to save the rest of the sheet.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
So those lasts 3 turned sideways to fit on the sheet, toss them, it's not worth the hassle to save that little material. Depending on vacuum performance, either center the parts within the sheet, or have them justified left and screw that side of the sheet down.
I once ran a mess of license plates on my old router which had no vacuum power. So I set up the parts to share edges, then placed screw holes in all of the ninja start looking parts that I was left with. Put a screw in all of the holes, and never worry about it moving. If you don't have MDF to screw down to, go pick up a sheet of 3/4", and just drop that on the table, then screw to it. It should be heavy enough to not get shifted.

What are these used for? This material is the worst, but evidently environmentally friendly, so unless this is a driving reason for the material selection, I'd push the client to something like pvc or acm, the savings on labor might even offset the cost...
 

JBurton

Signtologist
You'd be surprised, we used one of our sticky mats for cutting 50 sheets of MDF with no issues. BTW, the "Sticky" mats aren't really sticky, they are just a porous cellular foam that has a lot of air pockets to create additional points of suction and grip.
Well there ya go! I am surprised!
 

Print1

New Member
It's evident that some cut out square, while others near the edge of the board, sometimes move around during the cut.
Bits we tried:
The T00498 Upcut Router Bit is universal and meant for cutting soft plastic, hard wood, soft wood, and gator board. The bit has a 1” Cut Length.
The T00535 Upcut Router Bit is a universal bit that is used for cutting soft platic, hard plastic, acrylic, and Di Bond. 5/16” cut length.
What feedback do you have for us to improve the results?
You would greatly benefit from splitting your cut into a 2 part pass, Depending on the software version you have you can also lead in vertically to reduce your lateral friction from side to side. Enter your material thickness IE .500
then your depth per pass : .250
final depth: .00
you have now created a two pass job, There are many variations to this method but you will not need to use bridges. If you have more questions please let me know.
 

Print1

New Member
You'd be surprised, we used one of our sticky mats for cutting 50 sheets of MDF with no issues. BTW, the "Sticky" mats aren't really sticky, they are just a porous cellular foam that has a lot of air pockets to create additional points of suction and grip.
Funny Fact, You can use MDF as your spoiler table.. Simply get the MDF, mill .020 off the top to level it out, And boom, vac still works and you can cut into it. Great for Reverse bullnose and other advanced routing.
 

Josh Martinez

X-Edge Products Excellent Speed, Excellent Quality
It's evident that some cut out square, while others near the edge of the board, sometimes move around during the cut.
Bits we tried:
The T00498 Upcut Router Bit is universal and meant for cutting soft plastic, hard wood, soft wood, and gator board. The bit has a 1” Cut Length.
The T00535 Upcut Router Bit is a universal bit that is used for cutting soft platic, hard plastic, acrylic, and Di Bond. 5/16” cut length.
What feedback do you have for us to improve the results?

We have a 2 customers that cut this material that I know off. First customer has great vacuum and stack 4 sheets at a time and use our 2 flute compression 3/8" tool XC2023-M. 20,000 RPM at 500 IPM https://www.xedgetools.com/product-...mpression-series/cobra-mortising-compression/

Second customer uses our low helix 3 flute tool 1/4" Razor tool XR2062-CB 17,000 RPM at 600 IPM. https://www.xedgetools.com/product/xr2062-cb-1-4/

If your parts are still moving we do offer a vacuum hold down mat that may help you. https://www.xedgetools.com/product-category/accessories/vacuum-hold-down-enhancers/

Hope this helps you, good luck and let it rip!

Josh
 

MGB_LE

New Member
Would these do better being laser cut? We're also looking at a way to produce 300, 500 qty without needing to do the cleanup. This material is formaldehyde-free so it wouldn't release toxic fumes during laser-cutting. Just not sure who to farm out to in the Dallas, TX area and what it would cost.
 

James Burke

Being a grandpa is more fun than working
Would these do better being laser cut? We're also looking at a way to produce 300, 500 qty without needing to do the cleanup. This material is formaldehyde-free so it wouldn't release toxic fumes during laser-cutting. Just not sure who to farm out to in the Dallas, TX area and what it would cost.
100% agree.


JB
 
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