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Need Help Neon color match

Anastasi55

New Member
My managers need new decals done. This would normally be easy, except it's of a product that's made with a day-glo chartreuse paint. While our staff photographer shot it and corrected it perfectly for web viewing, the test prints look like a banana yellow. I'm beating my head against the wall trying to add just enough green, but not too dark, but not too desaturated, etc. I'm looking at a Pantone book, but the matching color uses a specific ink mix, not CMYK. My Epson isn't hexachrome...

Any ideas?
 

Anastasi55

New Member
In the end, after having an expert from tech support and a co-worker who has worked with color issues back me up, they're going with the plain yellow...
 

JBurton

Signtologist
In the end, after having an expert from tech support and a co-worker who has worked with color issues back me up, they're going with the plain yellow...
Having a pantone process book helps. Every color has a representation of true tone next to CMYK equivalent. They pick a color, you thumb it up, and say "these 'color experts' say that this is the closest version of that color you will get from anybody with a sign printer"
 

Anastasi55

New Member
Having a pantone process book helps. Every color has a representation of true tone next to CMYK equivalent. They pick a color, you thumb it up, and say "these 'color experts' say that this is the closest version of that color you will get from anybody with a sign printer"
And even the Pantone chip had a breakdown for specific inks, not a CMYK
 

ColorCrest

All around shop helper.
And even the Pantone chip had a breakdown for specific inks, not a CMYK
A reason for the missing CMYK values is because Pantone doesn't know how your printer is calibrated and therefore cannot prescribe an ink recipe. Pantone's old CMYK values were for its in-house press, and its press only however using generally targeted aim points. Begs the question; anybody know what those aim points are? What are the CMYK values to produce a medium gray on your printer?
 

Anastasi55

New Member
A reason for the missing CMYK values is because Pantone doesn't know how your printer is calibrated and therefore cannot prescribe an ink recipe. Pantone's old CMYK values were for its in-house press, and its press only however using generally targeted aim points. Begs the question; anybody know what those aim points are? What are the CMYK values to produce a medium gray on your printer?
Good question... I remember working in a press room that still did ink mixes for spot colors... But that's gone the way of much print media... I just look forward to a day job back in a design studio where they understand what's possible and what's not...
 

ColorCrest

All around shop helper.
My Epson isn't hexachrome...
But know that your Epson might exceed the old hexachrome color gamut in many color areas even though it's only a 4/C machine. Try feeding your Epson RGB files just as the old Hex workflow asked. A question becomes; what RGB color space to send? Send Adobe RGB at least, if not ProPhoto RGB. (The Epson can print colors beyond that of sRGB.)
 

Anastasi55

New Member
But know that your Epson might exceed the old hexachrome color gamut in many color areas even though it's only a 4/C machine. Try feeding your Epson RGB files just as the old Hex workflow asked. A question becomes; what RGB color space to send? Send Adobe RGB at least, if not ProPhoto RGB. (The Epson can print colors beyond that of sRGB.)
Even though it's a moot point: I tried the RGB profile, and the Hex. It printed out too much of a dark green. I tried other on-screen color matches, but still not a printer match... Now, I'm on to cutting out the decals by hand, at least it gives me an excuse to listen to a favorite podcast...
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Not the coated book we have... Still, a moot point as I've finished cutting and put them on the Sales Manager's chair
Just in the future, get you hands on one, make sure the sales folks use it to demonstrate to the customer that if they want a print vs cast colored vinyl, this is the closest you can get with said print.
It's also nearly a necessity to have something as a starting point for color correction, often times the printed values are different than the exported spot colors, and an average between the two is the best result.
 

neon benders

New Member
Also the "light" you view the color(s) in will make a difference. Indoor, outdoor, etc. you want to color check in the light the final product will be displayed. We used to do a lot of press work, and had a special "light box" for approving/leaving all proofs for the pressman.
 

White Haus

Not a Newbie
Also the "light" you view the color(s) in will make a difference. Indoor, outdoor, etc. you want to color check in the light the final product will be displayed. We used to do a lot of press work, and had a special "light box" for approving/leaving all proofs for the pressman.

THIS. I still remember the day we realized just how much printed colors shift from the back of our shop to being outside in the real world.

Referring to the daylight swatch reference page in Pantone book is great for this. (For those who don't have a light box)

It's shocking to see greys go from purple to greenish as we bring swatches from the back to the front of the shop.
 

neon benders

New Member
THIS. I still remember the day we realized just how much printed colors shift from the back of our shop to being outside in the real world.

Referring to the daylight swatch reference page in Pantone book is great for this. (For those who don't have a light box)

It's shocking to see greys go from purple to greenish as we bring swatches from the back to the front of the shop.
Yes you are correct! A great secret I learned back in the day.
 
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