coastalsign
New Member
Like the title says. Seeing which latex machine to go with. We have a HP L25500 already but are looking to sell it. It has some trouble with color consistency. Any insight you guys can give will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Like the title says. Seeing which latex machine to go with. We have a HP L25500 already but are looking to sell it. It has some trouble with color consistency. Any insight you guys can give will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Like the title says. Seeing which latex machine to go with. We have a HP L25500 already but are looking to sell it. It has some trouble with color consistency. Any insight you guys can give will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
This is not even a real choice, there might be 2-3 people in the whole country who have a Mimaki Latex machine. The support is horrible and the machine is slow, slow, slow! It does do white ink though, not many people actually utilize that so its kinda a waste. The cost of the Mimaki machine is much higher also, send a file to your local latex dealer and let them show you what the new models can do.
The 360 is pretty notorious for color inconsistency issues and I haven't seen any improvements that would lead me to believe newer versions have gotten any better.
@GSG Mark. Minor correction.. The spectro wasnt added later. It was original to the the z6100 models that HP based their entire latex line off of. Mine had it. The Z6100 is the forerunner of the entire HP latex family. Add heaters and change inks and a Z6100 is latex capable..This is the reason that the built in i1 was added to the L360. The L365, 560, and 570 will all have significant improvements in color consistency due to this added feature. Also bear in mind a good bit of color inconsistency (on older units) was due to the user changeable printheads being in various states from brand new to 3 months old (i.e. as they age the color shifts) The 365,560,and 570 can correct that with automated color calibrations.
The z6100s were difficult for color consistency with dye based inks even with the colorimeter.
My guess is that the disposable heads and bubble jet technology isn't capable of the rigors of industrial print.
Question about "laminating within an hour".. are you basing that on your nose and a dry to touch surface, or on some manufacturer supplied data? To my knowledge none of the manufacturers of print substrates would advise this on any solvent prints except latex and uv cure.If you are set on latex, go HP, there is no other option, mamiki latex is pretty much non existent, so parts and service would be hard to get.
But if you are not sold on latex, take a look at some of the eco solvent machines, we got a new Roland VG 640 about 6 months ago and it has been pretty awesome, the colours with the new tru vis ink are very vibrant, I haven't noticed any smell, and prints are ready to laminate after an hour, also I only need 1 standard 110 volt outlet instead of 2 dedicated 220v outlets.
Question about "laminating within an hour".. are you basing that on your nose and a dry to touch surface, or on some manufacturer supplied data? To my knowledge none of the manufacturers of print substrates would advise this on any solvent prints except latex and uv cure.
If by nose and touch... Eco solvent inks use a low odor solvent. Usually a glycol. The dry time on this is terribly slow. Even with a post print dryer it takes hours for the solvent to evaporate. On true solvent prints you can't laminate for 6 hours and that's really "hot" MEK based ink. On traditional EcoSol the ink doesn't dry for up to 20 days.. latex polymerizes into a solid film so it really is more like a cure than drying.
Laminating just seals any solvents in. If you laminate any solvent print too early you risk long term leaching of colors into the adhesive layers. Very very bad for wraps. It will literally stain the vehicles paint job in as little as two years and cause premature laminate failure.
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I would not trust the printer tech to know much about inks and media. Follow the guidelines from the vinyl manufacturer. Dry to touch isn't the same as fully dried when it comes to eco solvent inks.I was told this by the tech who installed the printer, and I believe it, on our old Roland when a print accendently touched ink to ink it almost always caused ink to pull off, now it doesn't happen at all, even on heavy coverage.
We don't do wraps so I can't comment on that, but I've had no issues so far.
Thank you for the input everyone. We've been very happy with the L25500 since we switched to latex. Staying with HP seems the way to go for us. We're currently looking at the 365 and 560 models.
We are in the same boat at the moment. Is it better to spend the extra on the 560 or other equipment in the shop??? Am liking the media loading on the 560.Thank you for the input everyone. We've been very happy with the L25500 since we switched to latex. Staying with HP seems the way to go for us. We're currently looking at the 365 and 560 models.