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Paint mask stencil vinyl and latex paint sheen recommendation

nolanola

https://manhattansignshop.nyc/
Hello forum!
We are working on a project that requires some letters painted on a wall.
What would be the best combination of vinyl and paint? I assume gloss paint would work better with vinyl? We use Sherwin Williams super paint and can choose a sheen.

We finished a big job this summer using Oramask 810 and had to cut everything with a brush. We used a sponge to apply paint to prevent it from leaking.

Thank you.
image.jpg

stencil 1.jpg


stencil 2.jpg
 

rossmosh

New Member
Latex from Nova Paint in California would be my recommendation. It's a matte finish.

Big picture, sheen shouldn't matter. You want two main characteristics in the paint you choose. First, good adhession. The second, dries hard. Some paints remain a bit soft and elastic, which can create havoc when you go to remove the masking.
 

visual800

Active Member
if you are doing interior never use gloss, we keep everything satin, interior and exterior. sheen does not matter when using mask as we always pull our mask off wet and always use foam rollers
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Sorry, I think it looks hideous. Sorry. The quotations look wa-a-a-ay outta place and the fuzziness on your edges are terrible. Not to mention the kerning looks bad. Question, if the kids will pick at the letters, what makes you think they won't pick at the picture. Your reasoning is not consistent. And why you'd put copy a foot and a half from the floor is beyond me.

Now lastly, you did this in paint. How did you fix the misspelling of believer ??
 

nolanola

https://manhattansignshop.nyc/
Sorry, I think it looks hideous. Sorry. The quotations look wa-a-a-ay outta place and the fuzziness on your edges are terrible. Not to mention the kerning looks bad. Question, if the kids will pick at the letters, what makes you think they won't pick at the picture. Your reasoning is not consistent. And why you'd put copy a foot and a half from the floor is beyond me.

Now lastly, you did this in paint. How did you fix the misspelling of believer ??
Thank you for your reply.
All edges were cut with a brush, as stated above.
We fixed all the misspelled words. With paint.
The layout was approved by the client.

Anyway, the question was about what masking vinyl to use. Or if there's anything better than Oramask 810 for this application.

IMG_20211012_100408_564.jpg
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Why not use a 4x8 of clear acrylic and apply vinyl second surface. Get some cheap standoffs, slap it on the wall and be done. It'd look slick and in the end be cheaper than all that masking and site time.
 

nolanola

https://manhattansignshop.nyc/
Why not use a 4x8 of clear acrylic and apply vinyl second surface. Get some cheap standoffs, slap it on the wall and be done. It'd look slick and in the end be cheaper than all that masking and site time.
Because the walls are way bigger than 4x8.
Twenty 4x8 sheets of acrylic won't look slick.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Thank you for your reply.
All edges were cut with a brush, as stated above.
We fixed all the misspelled words. With paint.
The layout was approved by the client.

Anyway, the question was about what masking vinyl to use. Or if there's anything better than Oramask 810 for this application.

View attachment 155821



I understand the original question was different from my comments, but now, so is the photograph and the copy from your initial opening post. What gives ??

If you're gonna cut all your edges in with a brush, then why not skip that stupidiness of putting all that vinyl down and patting your paint in with a sponge ?? This isn't a craft class, is it ?? Make yourself a pattern, cut your edges in the right way and then fill in the insides. It'll create better coverage and be done properly and less time and money involved. And how in the world do you use standoffs ?? And why on God's green earth didn't you use non-glare ??

Anyway, copy/proof being approved by the client does not give you the right to spell words wrong and blame them, especially easy words. Names or foreign words are a different condition.
 

nolanola

https://manhattansignshop.nyc/
I understand the original question was different from my comments, but now, so is the photograph and the copy from your initial opening post. What gives ??

If you're gonna cut all your edges in with a brush, then why not skip that stupidiness of putting all that vinyl down and patting your paint in with a sponge ?? This isn't a craft class, is it ?? Make yourself a pattern, cut your edges in the right way and then fill in the insides. It'll create better coverage and be done properly and less time and money involved. And how in the world do you use standoffs ?? And why on God's green earth didn't you use non-glare ??

Anyway, copy/proof being approved by the client does not give you the right to spell words wrong and blame them, especially easy words. Names or foreign words are a different condition.
Thank you.
I appreciate your help.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
You're quite welcome.... I guess, but can you now tell me why you are using different pictures and different scenarios for the same question ??

Honestly, I'd like to know why people go to great lengths to do this kinda stuff ?? To me, it doesn't make sense. None whatsoever. Therefore, when, or if someone else comes here with questions like this, I would have more insight to the original thinking process. You want answers. So do I. What makes something like this take place, that's all. It is not a jab at your capabilities, just trying to understand what happened and why the mixed signals to boot.
 

Damnitgabe

New Member
I always go with Montana 94 spray paint when doing my stencil work. Good adhesion, good coverage, dries fast, these cans (94’s) are low, pressure matte. As well as good quality paint. They don’t smell like regular spray paint either but they do smell for a few days like any other spraypaint would. That’s what I’d go with. Just prep for overspray thou!
 

nolanola

https://manhattansignshop.nyc/
I always go with Montana 94 spray paint when doing my stencil work. Good adhesion, good coverage, dries fast, these cans (94’s) are low, pressure matte. As well as good quality paint. They don’t smell like regular spray paint either but they do smell for a few days like any other spraypaint would. That’s what I’d go with. Just prep for overspray thou!
What vinyl do you use for stencils?
Thank you
 

Mike Paul

Super Active Member
Pounce pattern and hand lettered if it has to be paint. That would be quite a bit more money thought…
Actually a lot more. I would use cut vinyl.
If a snotty kids pulls of a letter just replace it.
Service call charge of course…
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
I used to make a ton of wood signs using stencils and paint. I use Oracal stencil mask and dabbed with a sponge brush or used spray paint. You just have to make sure the edges are down good which means some surfaces you might have to press a few letters edges at a time, spray or dab lightly until the edge is sealed then you can go back on the entire thing with a final coat. I always remove the mask when the paint is still wet - that's for wood, I'm not sure about your surface. There were instances when the stencil mask did not adhere well enough so I used whatever old intermediate vinyl I had laying around, of course testing first to make sure it didn't pull off the paint/stain underneath. I do like the idea of spray paint for this or hand lettering. I'm not sure I would dab paint on for this, it's very tedious. Oh well, you have some good ideas on here now for next time. You have to start somewhere!

And satin finish - never use gloss on an interior wall. The next guy who paints over it will hate you.
 
Years ago Glantz used to sell a product simply called Paint Frisket. It came smooth or crinkly. I'm not sure if they still sell it but I have quite a bit on hand to this day. You can get it so that a plotter can cut it or you can cut it by hand. Once it's down you won't have any seepage. You can peel it when the paint is wet or dry but I prefer somewhat tacky. Guaranteed no weeping will take place. I also use a brush. A sponge is not really good in my opinion. Paint needs to be brushed, not dabbed. Otherwise it won't create any tooth to hold on properly.

Something such as your project here though I would not tackle with a huge mask. Seems much too involved and looks too expensive. Someone mentioned getting a real sign painter in there to do it correctly and I think I agree with that assessment. What you have pictured would take roughly 15 minutes to place the pounce and pounce it. About 2 hours to hand paint it and then while it's drying you could hang the picture. I'd say the whole job from setup to walking away all cleaned up about 3.5 hours. Charge about $650 or so and only have about $15 in materials invested.
 
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