Print/cut gold leaf (Real Gold)

[Frontline Graphix]

I have a Mimaki CJV150-130 and trying to print/cut gold leaf material. Does not seem to want to read the registration marks correctly and cuts are way off. Anyone have any tips to get this right? Please help!! Thanks!!

 

[yukon]

I've had the same problem in the past but have figured out a solution that works well but requires an extra step:

On a typical Fire Dept Maltese cross for example... I don't print onto the gold. I cut the gold on the cutter (no need for crop marks) I print the Maltese Cross wording etc onto clear overlaminate (with crop marks). The laminate print is oversized by 0.2" to the gold. I then laminate the "laminate print" and then cut that. (using the crop marks) I install the gold to the vehicle first, then overlay the clear printed overlaminate. It will extend beyond the gold by the 0.2" giving the gold a nice edge seal. Here's some pics of ones we did this way...

 

[Frontline Graphix]

Thanks! I assume you do the same with lettering for the doors?

 

[bob]

I have a Mimaki CJV150-130 and trying to print/cut gold leaf material. Does not seem to want to read the registration marks correctly and cuts are way off. Anyone have any tips to get this right? Please help!! Thanks!!

Seeing as how you're herding Flexi and a fairly recent Graphtec just set the registration mark type to 4 point manual. It should be the first one on the list. This will print four little marks, two concentric circles and a cross, Print it and load the print into the plotter. Start the cut job and Production Manager will pause and and ask you, if memory serves, to choose between manual digitizing and bomb sight. Choose bomb sight. It will then ask you if you want to use the built in laser pointer. Say yes..It will then prompt you for each of the four marks. At each mark set the laser pointer as close to the center of the mark as you are able. Get close and look at it carefully. When you've located the fourth mark, you will be prompted to replace the blade holder, bog knows why but it does. Just press 'OK' or whatever it's labeled. The contour line will be cut. How close it is to right on will depend on precise your laser pointer to blade calibration is and how well you located each of the marks.

I use this method all of the time on metallic silver and it works flawlessly.

 

[Frontline Graphix]

Thanks Bob. That is how I would have probably did it, unfortunately my Graphtec did not arrive yet..Vender says Wednesday. I agree with your statement 100%! Thanks again.

 

[Milcha]

I've had the same problem in the past but have figured out a solution that works well but requires an extra step:

On a typical Fire Dept Maltese cross for example... I don't print onto the gold. I cut the gold on the cutter (no need for crop marks) I print the Maltese Cross wording etc onto clear overlaminate (with crop marks). The laminate print is oversized by 0.2" to the gold. I then laminate the "laminate print" and then cut that. (using the crop marks) I install the gold to the vehicle first, then overlay the clear printed overlaminate. It will extend beyond the gold by the 0.2" giving the gold a nice edge seal. Here's some pics of ones we did this way...

I wish I'd registered here earlier and read your answer! I printed all the artwork on white vinyl with crop marks, cut off the area inside the crop marks, applied white on gold, cut on Graphtec. It worked, but it was such a WASTE of gold!

 

[Gene@mpls]

Not sure what your reg marks look like but... for our Roland round marks I print/cut a strip of black dots with .5 white around them to use for different situations- easy to align over the existing and the cutter likes the white better. I have also moved the marks by a bit to get the reader to find the marks on long (20') cuts- which works if you have a lot of bleed. Gene

 

[Frontline Graphix]

Not sure what your reg marks look like but... for our Roland round marks I print/cut a strip of black dots with .5 white around them to use for different situations- easy to align over the existing and the cutter likes the white better. I have also moved the marks by a bit to get the reader to find the marks on long (20') cuts- which works if you have a lot of bleed. Gene

Hi Gene, yes the dots on the Roland work well for gold leaf. Unfortunately, I do not see an option for that with the Mimaki. It is only the corner lines from what I can see.

 

[letterman7]

I've had the same problem in the past but have figured out a solution that works well but requires an extra step:

On a typical Fire Dept Maltese cross for example... I don't print onto the gold. I cut the gold on the cutter (no need for crop marks) I print the Maltese Cross wording etc onto clear overlaminate (with crop marks). The laminate print is oversized by 0.2" to the gold. I then laminate the "laminate print" and then cut that. (using the crop marks) I install the gold to the vehicle first, then overlay the clear printed overlaminate. It will extend beyond the gold by the 0.2" giving the gold a nice edge seal. Here's some pics of ones we did this way...

What are you using to print on the laminate with that gives such a solid color fill? I've tried that with my Mutoh with not such good results.. the ink didn't want to stick to the laminate so well.

 

[Frontline Graphix]

What are you using to print on the laminate with that gives such a solid color fill? I've tried that with my Mutoh with not such good results.. the ink didn't want to stick to the laminate so well.

letterman...I used Oracal 290 lam for the print I just did. In my case the customer wanted "blue leaf" so there was no need for solid print. Not sure you can get a solid print with the exception of black unless you do thermal print? Maybe one of the experts can add to this and explain if there is a way with the solvent printers. Would be great to have that option if possible.

 

[GaSouthpaw]

No clue what the inkset is for that machine, but a white primer would make the printed design opaque.

 

[letterman7]

Your red looks pretty solid in that one photo, that's why I asked. I've never been able to accurately contour cut SignGold, I usually wind up hand cutting a fair bit of it. To be honest, I can usually hand cut faster and more accurately than time spent setting up my file to the plotter.

 

[yukon]

What are you using to print on the laminate with that gives such a solid color fill? I've tried that with my Mutoh with not such good results.. the ink didn't want to stick to the laminate so well.

I print onto either 3M 8548 or 8518 lam. Since the inks are somewhat transparent, I'm printing only the black. It covers very well but you may see a sparkle of the gold coming through at certain angles, very minimal. The red you see in my photo is Red reflective vinyl under the laminate, same with the burgundy in the 2nd photo. The grey drop shadow is printed onto the laminate. It works in this case because the truck is white.

I imagine I could print all the colors on the laminate if I use the white ink configuration on my printer. I'm set up CMYKLcLmLk so I don't use the white option.

Hope that helps...

Yukon

 

[letterman7]

'Tis interesting.. I have the 8518 and it didn't want to play well. Might have to revisit it and try to prep the surface a little just to see. Mutoh's Eco-solvents might have something to do with it, too.