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Suggestions re-installing stud mounted acrylic lettering

MikePro

New Member
we stud weld and hand-tap studs into 1/4" aluminum all the time.
however, the fact that they are already painted leads me to think the latter would be the best option of the two.

bonus points for the suggestion to simply mount to a panel and then mount that panel to the brick. less fuss at time of install.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
Everything Burton said is spot on. Get a battery powered SDS drill. Brick isn't bad. The ACM backer idea sounds good... It would be easier to install and gives contrast when letters are against brick.
 

gnubler

Active Member
If it's painted drywall, the wall is going to need patch and paint regardless. If they're stud-mounted, it's going to leave holes. If they're tape-mounted, it's going to pull paint and likely some of the drywall facing. It's extremely rare that tape-mounted letters are just going to come off and not damage the wall. Your customer should plan on patch and paint after removal.

I carry a few putty knives and scrapers. One is super thin and flexible. One is a bit thicker and stiffer. One is even thicker and isn't flexible at all. If letters are stud-mounted, I usually use the middle one since it gets behind the letters easier. But if they're stubborn (studs went through metal wall studs, etc.), I use the thickest one and just pry them out. If letters are tape-mounted, I use the thinnest one and try to push through the tape to try not to minimize the damage but often have to move up to one of the other putty knives/scrapers to just pry them off.
I got this done and ended up using a stiff putty knife as you mentioned. These were metal letters with studs and tape and they just popped right off. I brought an array of other tools with me, as mentioned in this thread, but the putty knife did the trick.
 

Moze

Precision Sign Services
I got this done and ended up using a stiff putty knife as you mentioned. These were metal letters with studs and tape and they just popped right off. I brought an array of other tools with me, as mentioned in this thread, but the putty knife did the trick.

It's the best way. I've used piano wire, guitar string, kevlar string, etc. The three putty knives are what I've settled on. For any situation, one of them will work.

Hopefully you got a rubbing of the existing holes after you removed the letters to use as a pattern. If being reinstalled, once the letters are removed, I'll get a rubbing of the holes from the studs. When you're getting the rubbing, reinsert a couple of the outer letters through the pattern and trace them so you know where the overall footprint of the letters will fall.
 

GaSouthpaw

Profane and profane accessories.
Update to this potential job. Customer asked if the sign letters can be removed from the interior wall and installed outside on a brick surface. Without knowing yet if these are tape or stud mounted, if they don't have studs how hard would it be to put some on? Pretty sure the letters are 1/4" aluminum, is that too thin for studs? Tap & die or welded on, or what? If it's not worth the work I'll just try to sell them on having new letters made with studs. A bit nervous about installing into brick, never done it before.
Have to disagree with JBurton about it being a no-go with no studs, but it depends on what your customer is willing to pay for.
If you have a stud gun, you could always pop studs onto the letters. Alternatively, drilling and tapping will work, but make sure to use a 10-24 or smaller stud to make sure the threads "grab". That said, it's kind of a PITA to drill and tap individual letters (we do it as the first step when cutting them out- before they're actually cut). Once you figure all the time it would take to do that, it might indeed be cheaper (and easier on your sanity) to sell the customer on a new set of letters.
 

gnubler

Active Member
Hopefully you got a rubbing of the existing holes after you removed the letters to use as a pattern. If being reinstalled, once the letters are removed, I'll get a rubbing of the holes from the studs. When you're getting the rubbing, reinsert a couple of the outer letters through the pattern and trace them so you know where the overall footprint of the letters will fall.
I didn't! Was that mentioned in the thread? I think the OP said he laid them out on kraft paper and traced them. I'll go back today and get a rubbing.
 

Moze

Precision Sign Services
Yeah, if you need a pattern then create one off the existing holes. An awl actually works better. A rubbing doesn't always pick up all of the holes. Tape your pattern paper over the holes and punch through the paper into each hole with the awl. I'll usually put the outermost letters back and mark them to help with centering/placing it when I reinstall. Also, mark a horizontal level line on the pattern or mark the bottoms of two flat letters.
 

gnubler

Active Member
You saved my butt, Moze. Went back to the site this morning and they were already patching the holes from one of the signs! I got there in time to get a pattern of the other one (they were identical signs). Rubbing with a pencil was useless, so I used an awl. Used white plotter paper and had to keep pulling it back & forth from the wall to make sure I got all the holes...wasn't able to punch them all just by touch.
 

Moze

Precision Sign Services
You saved my butt, Moze. Went back to the site this morning and they were already patching the holes from one of the signs! I got there in time to get a pattern of the other one (they were identical signs). Rubbing with a pencil was useless, so I used an awl. Used white plotter paper and had to keep pulling it back & forth from the wall to make sure I got all the holes...wasn't able to punch them all just by touch.

Glad it worked out.

The awl is the best thing to use for that. I shouldn't have said "rubbings" in my other post. Kind of a default, blanket term.

For future reference, when you DO do rubbings, use a red construction/lumber crayon. They're fast due to their size and you won't get lead all over your fingers or stuff you touch.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Have to disagree with JBurton about it being a no-go with no studs, but it depends on what your customer is willing to pay for.
If you have a stud gun, you could always pop studs onto the letters. Alternatively, drilling and tapping will work, but make sure to use a 10-24 or smaller stud to make sure the threads "grab". That said, it's kind of a PITA to drill and tap individual letters (we do it as the first step when cutting them out- before they're actually cut). Once you figure all the time it would take to do that, it might indeed be cheaper (and easier on your sanity) to sell the customer on a new set of letters.
Isn't that exactly what I said? It can be done, but would be cheaper and faster to order or fab new.
 
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