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Recommended Router Bits for 45 Degree Beveled Edge

Think713

Think713

New Member
Hey everyone,
So far I have not found a particular bit that does this (i have found some for acm bevels for "bending). Our Collet is sized for a 6mm shank. I'm looking for a a bit that I can route 45 degree edges like you would cut with a miter saw.
Now any of you that are familiar with woodworking can probably tell me whether or not thats a good idea, and it might just be better to go ahead and cut the pieces I want on a miter saw. But I do not have one. I guess the biggest issue would be hold down for said material and making sure it doesnt move on the final pass.

That being said if its possible and there is a good bit out there, can you guys point me in the right direction?
 
JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
You probably also want to finish with a straight bit, leaving a 1/16" or thicker flat edge. A true 45 on an edge is just waiting to get damaged.
 
Think713

Think713

New Member
JBurton said:
You probably also want to finish with a straight bit, leaving a 1/16" or thicker flat edge. A true 45 on an edge is just waiting to get damaged.
Click to expand...
So the goal is to route all the sides of a box to put them together. I will be likely wood glueing all those sides and using brackets on the inside. So I need the edges to be sharp to meet clean all the way around. I still dont know if itll just be better to cut the wood on a miter saw, but only one way to find out.
 
JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
Think713 said:
route all the sides of a box to put them together.
Click to expand...
You'll want to make sure you're working on a very flat section of your table... or get a table saw. I don't think a miter saw would make this easier than a router, but a table saw with a good true stop should.
As far as hold down, I figured a colex would have a vacuum hold down? Stepping the bit through, you'll want to slow down as you max out the depth, every pass is taking more material due to more cut area being exposed. Also the width of your V bit will need to be twice the thickness of your material, otherwise you'll have to offset a series of cuts to get the 45 from top to bottom.
 
Think713

Think713

New Member
JBurton said:
You'll want to make sure you're working on a very flat section of your table... or get a table saw. I don't think a miter saw would make this easier than a router, but a table saw with a good true stop should.
As far as hold down, I figured a colex would have a vacuum hold down? Stepping the bit through, you'll want to slow down as you max out the depth, every pass is taking more material due to more cut area being exposed. Also the width of your V bit will need to be twice the thickness of your material, otherwise you'll have to offset a series of cuts to get the 45 from top to bottom.
Click to expand...
The colex does have a vacuum hold down. But in my experience, pieces that are light, thin or detailed tend to shift at the end of a cut. So I'm a little curious about the best way to address that if it becomes an issue.
If I'm going down in steps, how many would you say would be the best? I'm most likely going to be routing 1x4s so those are what? .75 x 3.5 normally? So Im thinking .25" steps? so 3 maybe?
 
JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
Think713 said:
I'm most likely going to be routing 1x4s
Click to expand...
Oh thats going to be rough. and depending on the precision you're aiming for, it's damn near impossible. You'd need to plane the boards until they are all the same thickness, but 1x4's are going to be warped... I'd try talking someone into using MDO or MDF depending on the actual application, MDF will have the more consistent thickness, but it will absorb water and get ruined pretty quickly if this is going outside.
At .75" thickness, you'd need a 1.5" diameter bit to cut through straight down (which you don't want such a large bit on a small shank), otherwise you'll need to offset each pass to get all the way through while maintaining the 45 degree bevel, which means you'll have to rough out some of the outer edge before making pass 2. What software are you using to make files for the router?
 
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