Rivets

[Charlie J]

What is the best tool to use on rivets. I have a 3m 1" rivet brush and a good heat gun but they just seem to do an okay job. Or it could be that I just don't have enough experience with them yet. I read in another thread that dry application is better than wet, but i've never tryed it dry.

Any suggestions/tips?:

 

[imaSIGNr]

dry appl is really the ONLY way, then you still need the rivet brush and heat gun....at least that's how we do it here in Gotham City

 

[Charlie J]

I think i would just have a problem getting everything level and such. Not to mention bubbles.

 

[Billct2]

Level? Don't you tape/hinge the graphics before applying?

 

[Charlie J]

yes but sometimes it doesnt take much for it to get off by just a little bit and it messes up the whole thing. i did a box van last week and we had the corners right on and the center had dropped a little. If it would have been dry I dont think we would have been able to go back and fix it. We might have had to redo it.

 

[Al Checca]

What is the best tool to use on rivets. I have a 3m 1" rivet brush and a good heat gun but they just seem to do an okay job. Or it could be that I just don't have enough experience with them yet. I read in another thread that dry application is better than wet, but i've never tryed it dry.

Any suggestions/tips?:

Been doing fleets for better than 15 years, Traveled all over the USA working on fleets 750 trailers strong.
Never apply wet. The last thing you want is moister behind a decal around a rivet. I use the same brush and a small Burns o matic hand torch. 3 holes at the bottom of each rivet and then run it in working from the outside towards the inside till the rivet is tight. Make sure it is down tight and move on tot he next row.

 

[Al Checca]

Level? Don't you tape/hinge the graphics before applying?

A great fail safe method...

 

[Al Checca]

yes but sometimes it doesnt take much for it to get off by just a little bit and it messes up the whole thing. i did a box van last week and we had the corners right on and the center had dropped a little. If it would have been dry I dont think we would have been able to go back and fix it. We might have had to redo it.

Using good material to start with can really make a world of difference also.

 

[Billct2]

"yes but sometimes it doesnt take much for it to get off by just a little bit"
You need to improve your masking tape technique, when we tape a a hinge it doesn't move a bit.
"we had the corners right on and the center had dropped a little."
I thought maybe you're center hinging, but you'd have the opposite problem.
Are you running the tape along the entire edge? I always do the bottom edge so the graphic can't flop done before I'm ready.

 

[Al Checca]

You have to watch even if they don't drop much. If you were doing a 53 foot trailer and the first panel dropped it will chase you all the way down the trailer and could be inches off in the end and a big, big problem.

 

[Checkers]

I hate rivets!

Rivets suck, but they're a necessary evil that we all will encounter sooner or later.
As it's been mentioned, applying vinyl over rivets is best done dry. Once the graphic is down, using a heat gun or torch, along with a rivet brush or squeegee to dress the rivets will insure a long lasting graphic. I once tried those "torpedo" rivet tools, but it didn't work for me.
There are no short cuts, and practice pakes perfect. Using the right materials for the job will make your life easier though.
Below is an install I did a long time ago. The biggest PITA of the job were the stripes and the rivets.
Edited to add: Also, do a google search on Rivetron and/or slam grahics, Mark came up with a great instructional on how to apply graphics over rivets

Checkers

 

[johnnysigns]

i also do fleet work and working w/ rivets just takes some experience and trial/error. i use a 1" rivet brush, a 'runner' wheel to make holes for the air to excape and a hand held propane torch to get rivets down. works like a charm.

 

[Al Checca]

Rivets suck, but they're a necessary evil that we all will encounter sooner or later.
As it's been mentioned, applying vinyl over rivets is best done dry. Once the graphic is down, using a heat gun or torch, along with a rivet brush or squeegee to dress the rivets will insure a long lasting graphic. I once tried those "torpedo" rivet tools, but it didn't work for me.
There are no short cuts, and practice pakes perfect. Using the right materials for the job will make your life easier though.
Below is an install I did a long time ago. The biggest PITA of the job were the stripes and the rivets.
Edited to add: Also, do a google search on Rivetron and/or slam grahics, Mark came up with a great instructional on how to apply graphics over rivets

Checkers

That's right Checkers, I remember when Mark did Rivetron! Now that was something great for all beginners to read it was so well done.
I'll have to see if I have a copy, I thought I saved it to use as a "teaching tool"..

Hey Checkers.... Grape vine tells us it looks real good for that fleet job we were talking about! If we get it it seals the deal for our winter... Bills are paid for the winter! Lease payments payroll the whole deal...

 

[Checkers]

Cool Al! But, I'm not going to congratulate you yet.
Let me know when you have the signed contract and then we'll celebrate

Checkers

 

[Al Checca]

Cool Al! But, I'm not going to congratulate you yet.
Let me know when you have the signed contract and then we'll celebrate

Checkers

Yep, you bet... Right with ya, just have my figers and toes crossed...

 

[imaSIGNr]

Another thing that will help is that after your vinyl is all hinged securely if you can cut apart any of the text ( graphics ) ,then you are dealing with smaller items. Then apply seperately. At least if you screw up anything you only have to redo a smaller part of job....