Question Sandblasting Komacel vs Komatex

[Jairo E. Camargo]

My client decides to go with .50" Komacel instead of a beautiful cedar sign. this is a 16"x16" panel.
I did the sandblast on cedar and it turns great But komacel at 120 PSI for 30 min. did not get deep enough. My question is komatex is softer than Komacel and also what kind of paint to use.
I'm a new member and really appreciate any input.

Cheers,

 

[Jean Shimp]

My client decides to go with .50" Komacel instead of a beautiful cedar sign. this is a 16"x16" panel.
I did the sandblast on cedar and it turns great But komacel at 120 PSI for 30 min. did not get deep enough. My question is komatex is softer than Komacel and also what kind of paint to use.
I'm a new member and really appreciate any input.

Cheers,

I don't have an answer for your Komatex question but just wanted to say that we make a lot of PVC signs that simulate sandblasted wood. We rout the background on the CNC using a woodgrain pattern. We tried sandblasting PVC one time and the results were terrible. As for paint, we have been using acrylic latex house paints for many years.

 

[letterman7]

Yep, you can't sandblast pvc and expect decent results. Routing is the only way to go. That said, as Jean mentioned, quality latex paints will work. I typically paint all my stuff with automotive grade urethanes, including pvc.

 

[spectrum maine]

matthews & pvc are an unbeatable combination.
prepaint edges w/ brush 2x then sand edges & spray the edges look like crap unless you do this.

 

[Eric H]

Who gave them the option of pvc? You've already wasted more time and money on it than using the correct material the first time.

 

[OADesign]

My client decides to go with .50" Komacel instead of a beautiful cedar sign. this is a 16"x16" panel.
I did the sandblast on cedar and it turns great But komacel at 120 PSI for 30 min. did not get deep enough. My question is komatex is softer than Komacel and also what kind of paint to use.
I'm a new member and really appreciate any input.
Cheers,

Correct me if I'm wrong. But I thought you could change the blast media depending on how aggressive you need it to be. For example, 1 for cedar and other woods. 1 for glass and high energy surfaces and another for metal / rust and paint removal etc. Maybe switch it up to get the result you are looking for?

But as others have mentioned, CNC is a great way to get the look.
+1 for matthews & pvc.

 

[Gino]

If you're doing high volume, you gonna want to reclaim whatever you are using and use it over. From the aluminum grit to sand, to husks..... whatever. If you are constantly changing your material, you'll waste a lotta time cleaning up, sifting and just trying to keep it all separated. Years ago, we would blast for days and just use the same stuff over and over to save money. The sharpness doesn't get ruined until you're blasting pipes or other steel items. We had certain days for balsting certain surfaces. That was in the 80s and 90s. It's totally different today.