Question Spray-able Clear-Coat for Printed Metal and Wood

[ahgrafx]

Hello Everyone,
At work we have an OCE in which we use "OCE UV curable ink" and we are searching for a clear-coat we can spray over it to protect it from scratching off. The ones we have used in the past melt the ink. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gino]

Apply a dry coat, first. In other words, don't saturate your graphic, but rather use a very light mist. Let it fall on the print, then once it dries, which should be a minute or three..... apply a second dry coat, going the opposite direction. Once that one thoroughly dries, then apply as much as you want, just don't make puddles. You really should have some experience in spraying things which are very thin in consistency.

 

[ahgrafx]

Apply a dry coat, first. In other words, don't saturate your graphic, but rather use a very light mist. Let it fall on the print, then once it dries, which should be a minute or three..... apply a second dry coat, going the opposite direction. Once that one thoroughly dries, then apply as much as you want, just don't make puddles. You really should have some experience in spraying things which are very thin in consistency.

so it doesnt matter if its water based or not?

 

[Gino]

The technique I just explained is for solvent based clear, like Frog Juice or Clear Shield. I'm sure there are others, but those are the two we use the most. We used to use DANA, but that's about impossible to get anymore.

Nothing wrong with water-based, but that won't eat your ink at all. My only experience with water-based, which is a lot, is if you put it on too heavy, it can get like a..... milky appearance.

 

[ahgrafx]

has anyone tried this stuff called "frog juice"
edit
oops I see you posted with info on frog juice my appologies

 

[studio 440]

has anyone tried this stuff called "frog juice"
edit
oops I see you posted with info on frog juice my appologies

print a bunch of small samples and try a variety of different clears . I dont know about UV inks but a good uv proof automotive clear is about they best protection but very costly .mostly it is the catalyst or solvent in the clear that will attack the surface but as Gino says a few dust coats or tac coats before the wet coats is always recomended

 

[equippaint]

print a bunch of small samples and try a variety of different clears . I dont know about UV inks but a good uv proof automotive clear is about they best protection but very costly .mostly it is the catalyst or solvent in the clear that will attack the surface but as Gino says a few dust coats or tac coats before the wet coats is always recomended

We get 2:1 automotive clear in 1.5 gal kits for $100. Be careful with clears, many of the 4:1 kits don't have any UV inhibitors in them. If you're worried about them melting the print, don't reduce it and don't over saturate as has been said. I have yet to see it melt paint, even over wet rustoleum.

 

[TimToad]

Our old Gerber ION Solara produces a print that is so tough that I can barely scratch it with my fingernail, but we do use Frog Juice and ClearShield Production Clear on stuff we'd like a little extra UV protection on.

The question for me is how long should any of the stuff we're running off a flatbed last? Is that the right print technology for work presumed to be "permanent"?

We are in an extreme UV region and I see tons of work that our predecessors printed on the ION that is 6-8 years old and still hanging in there unless it is on a south facing building and has delicate colors in it.

 

[equippaint]

The question for me is how long should any of the stuff we're running off a flatbed last? Is that the right print technology for work presumed to be "permanent"?

I would like to know this as well for unlaminated.