• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Need Help Starting new creative adventure (project)

AkKaren

New Member
Hi, I’m an establish artist (sculptural/painting/mix media) looking to try my hand at personalizing my vehicle with my own work. After doing some homework, I’ve decided I would like to hand paint my design on vinyl as opposed to directly on the vehicle itself. I intend to use One Shot paint, but would like some guidance on selecting the appropriate vinyl. My research suggests Oracal ? Would it be easier to apply the cut out shape of the design to the vehicle and THEN paint it? Or paint the design, cut it out (weed?) and apply when cured? ( the design will be large...) Does it matter what color the vinyl is to start with? (vehicle is dark maroon, design will be lighter, brighter colors)
I do appreciate any all suggestions, as well as your time in providing them.
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
it all boils down to what you want the finished look to be.
do you have a way of putting your art in a digital format and having a shop print it for you.
which will hold up better and look cleaner than anything else
 

AkKaren

New Member
it all boils down to what you want the finished look to be.
do you have a way of putting your art in a digital format and having a shop print it for you.
which will hold up better and look cleaner than anything else
I do want a “hand painted” look. I have gotten an estimate for a professionally made decal, via computer/scanner to the tune of $1450. I’m all for supporting local businesses... but I AM ALSO a local business. As an artist, I want an original work on my truck. I expect the piece to last 3 -4 years.
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
oh thats fine just brainstorming ideas. i used to do printing for a book author that did her pictures in water colors and i had to print them so they looked hand done
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Hand painting onto ANY white enamel receptive vinyl will look pretty bad when it's finished. Painting with 1 Shot and/or other lettering paints is pretty much like painting with snot, these days. It doesn't cover worth a sh!t. You'll have better luck, painting directly to the vehicle.

How are you gonna cut your lettering, pictorials and whatnot out to transfer onto your vehicle ?? That will be mighty tedious work, unless there's nothing intricate about your finished work.

I know being an artsy person, you wanna create this and finish it out yourself, but unless the finished product is outstanding, you could very easily be doing yourself, more harm than good.

Try throwing up what you want the end piece to be and let us see if we can help you with some better ideas/methods than the one you've come up with so far.
 

AkKaren

New Member
Hand painting onto ANY white enamel receptive vinyl will look pretty bad when it's finished. Painting with 1 Shot and/or other lettering paints is pretty much like painting with snot, these days. It doesn't cover worth a sh!t. You'll have better luck, painting directly to the vehicle.

How are you gonna cut your lettering, pictorials and whatnot out to transfer onto your vehicle ?? That will be mighty tedious work, unless there's nothing intricate about your finished work.

I know being an artsy person, you wanna create this and finish it out yourself, but unless the finished product is outstanding, you could very easily be doing yourself, more harm than good.

Try throwing up what you want the end piece to be and let us see if we can help you with some better ideas/methods than the one you've come up with so far.


Thanks for the quick responses guys! I’m dismayed to hear your opinion of One Shot. I have never worked with the stuff before. I had originally planned to paint directly on the vehicle. I thought the vinyl was a better option (if possible) because it could be removed if necessary. I wasn’t sure how badly I would have to scruff up the clear coat of the truck. The original idea I had was to put a masking film/tape on the side of the truck, draw the design, then carefully cut it out. This would create a stencil. A rubbing compound would be used on the exposed area, followed by othe appropriate surface prep. Then paint.
Below is the tentative design
 

Attachments

  • 52DB22D1-F507-4113-B14A-4980CA4B3E9C.jpeg
    52DB22D1-F507-4113-B14A-4980CA4B3E9C.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 272

papabud

Lone Wolf
thats actually a pretty cool look. and fyi one of my favorite dark rums is called kracken
if you can paint it using a computer program you can make it look like its hand done. i personally would put a water scape behind it and wrap the front fender. driver door window down and the back fender to make it look like a complete piece.
or you could outline it and have it machine cut and applied like a larger decal.
your other option would to be to physically hand paint it on the side of the truck, giving it that good old fashioned 70's van art look.
air brushing it might be a better option. but i guess it depends on how you prefer to paint
 

AkKaren

New Member
thats actually a pretty cool look. and fyi one of my favorite dark rums is called kracken
if you can paint it using a computer program you can make it look like its hand done. i personally would put a water scape behind it and wrap the front fender. driver door window down and the back fender to make it look like a complete piece.
or you could outline it and have it machine cut and applied like a larger decal.
your other option would to be to physically hand paint it on the side of the truck, giving it that good old fashioned 70's van art look.
air brushing it might be a better option. but i guess it depends on how you prefer to paint


I prefer to hand paint... but I have an airbrush...and not afraid to use it. Didn’t want a background... just the squid. Just trying to work out the technical details.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
That looks to be more of an airbrushed deal..

Like you said, you'll scare up the clear with 1200 grit sandpaper. Lay down a frisket paper. Draw your designs on that, hand cut it and weed it away step by step as you need the colors. Working back to front, then shoot with a base coat of white and start laying your colors down. Use an airbrush and paint brush and avoid painting vinyl first and then putting it on.

Don't be afraid to do wet on wet. Just let it set up for a bit, then start the next color. Paints bond better wet on wet then wet to dry.

You can use latex paints, but I'm old school and still like the solvent paints.

Good luck.​
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
ok i just talked about your project with one of my installers. he is an old school hand lettering painter. he still hand letters some vehicles from time to time.
what he suggested is you do not have to sand the clear coat first, but doing so would make it last a little longer.
he would suggest using a sign lettering paint with lead in it. and then clear coat over top of that.
he gets his paints form an automotive shop here in town.
 

AkKaren

New Member
That looks to be more of an airbrushed deal..

Like you said, you'll scare up the clear with 1200 grit sandpaper. Lay down a frisket paper. Draw your designs on that, hand cut it and weed it away step by step as you need the colors. Working back to front, then shoot with a base coat of white and start laying your colors down. Use an airbrush and paint brush and avoid painting vinyl first and then putting it on.

Don't be afraid to do wet on wet. Just let it set up for a bit, then start the next color. Paints bond better wet on wet then wet to dry.

You can use latex paints, but I'm old school and still like the solvent paints.

Good luck.​
Thanks! Is the clear coat absolutely necessary? How is it applied?
 

BUCKY

New Member
ok i just talked about your project with one of my installers. he is an old school hand lettering painter. he still hand letters some vehicles from time to time.
what he suggested is you do not have to sand the clear coat first, but doing so would make it last a little longer.
he would suggest using a sign lettering paint with lead in it. and then clear coat over top of that.
he gets his paints form an automotive shop here in town.
You can not buy Sign Lettering paint with lead in it anymore. Those days are long gone Bud. We are stuck with what is left in the cans and that is poor
coverage, and lack of durability. That is just the way it is..... however.... it is much better for your health!! Many of the Old School Sign guys I have know died from cancer
or some form of neurological disease. Sad but true.
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
i am sure its hard to find or near impossible. its not something i have ever done so i can only go with what he says.
and he is one of those old school guys with major health issues.
but still swears by the leaded paint.
 

AkKaren

New Member
Understood. Any suggestions on appropriate paint brands for this project, besides One Shot? It seems like many believe this is THE “go to” stuff.
 

AKwrapguy

New Member
Hi, I’m an establish artist (sculptural/painting/mix media) looking to try my hand at personalizing my vehicle with my own work. After doing some homework, I’ve decided I would like to hand paint my design on vinyl as opposed to directly on the vehicle itself. I intend to use One Shot paint, but would like some guidance on selecting the appropriate vinyl. My research suggests Oracal ? Would it be easier to apply the cut out shape of the design to the vehicle and THEN paint it? Or paint the design, cut it out (weed?) and apply when cured? ( the design will be large...) Does it matter what color the vinyl is to start with? (vehicle is dark maroon, design will be lighter, brighter colors)
I do appreciate any all suggestions, as well as your time in providing them.

Karen,
So have you only talked to one shop? There are several here in the Eagle River/Anchorage area. It would probably be a lot easier and faster to digitally print it and apply.
 

AkKaren

New Member
Karen,
So have you only talked to one shop? There are several here in the Eagle River/Anchorage area. It would probably be a lot easier and faster to digitally print it and apply.
Karen,
So have you only talked to one shop? There are several here in the Eagle River/Anchorage area. It would probably be a lot easier and faster to digitally print it and apply.


Ok... you guys are talking me out of it! I wanted to argue; I WANT to DO it MYSELF! But.. reality set in... ( ok, I calculated the expense of paints, vinyl, cleaner, reducer and my time, etc...) . I will look further into getting a decal made. Thank you gentlemen, for your input. One way or another... The Kraken will be released!
 

AKwrapguy

New Member
Ok... you guys are talking me out of it! I wanted to argue; I WANT to DO it MYSELF! But.. reality set in... ( ok, I calculated the expense of paints, vinyl, cleaner, reducer and my time, etc...) . I will look further into getting a decal made. Thank you gentlemen, for your input. One way or another... The Kraken will be released!


If it's something that you want to do yourself and you want to save money do this....

Work with the production artist. Explain what you want to do and find out what type of files that they will need. This will cut down on production time saving you money.
Have them print, laminate and cut the artwork out. But install it yourself. This will also save you money

Most of all, be realistic in what you want and remember that putting graphics onto a 3D object requires patience. You will mess up but as long as you don't burn a hole in the material you should be good. Being in Alaska the material I've had the most luck with, I would look at 3M IJ180 CV3 with a 8519 (luster) or a 8518 (gloss) laminate. You could also look at Orcal I'm not sure on which to use as I don't use it on a regular basis.

You will need to 'de-badge' and clean your car, being that the vehicle is also in Alaska you will probably also have to look at taking a clay bar to it as well, as it will remove all the little pieces that won't come off during a regular cleaning. Once that is done and the vehicle is dry, wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol either 70% or 90%.

Watch a bunch of youtube video on how to wrap vehicles, than watch some more. Than go tackle it. It will take you some time, be very frustrating, and the hood will be the most frustrating part but you'll get it done, and it'll look awesome.

Tools you will need are
Heat gun & extension cord-Walmart or any hardware store
Applicator- Regional Supply (In Anchorage on King Street talk to Rich or Bo) I wood look at either a wet squeegee or a felt cover that you can slip over a regular one
Masking tape- Walmart or hardware store
isopropyl alcohol - Walmart or box store
Clay bar - You can get package deals at box store but go to an automotive paint store if you just want the clay bar
Soapy water, Dawn works great -Walmart
Microfiber towel - Walmart or hardware store
Small knife with breakable blades - maybe Walmart? should be at most hardware stores

make sure the vehicle is warm and has been inside for at least 24 hours and in a place that you have room to work with plenty of light.

The don'ts
Don't Rush this. It might take you a day or two or even three and that's ok
Don't use a soap with wax in it
Don't let the heat gun touch he material it will burn a hole in it.
Don't take the vehicle outside half done
Don't forget to cut out the doors and hood
Try not to cut directly onto the vehicle. If you do have to take a piece of scrap material and apply it to a piece of masking tape on a wall or table and practice cutting through the material but not the tape a few times to get the hang of it.
 
Top