• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Summa T Series S140 - blade holder question

gabagoo

New Member
I love this cutter and think it is the best I have ever owned. The only issue I have with it is changing blades and trying to see whats going on from underneath the holder. In all the other plotters I have ever owned you can remove the blade holder easily and visually see how far the blade is sticking out and then just reinstall the blade holder. This one is different and the holder has to be screwed into place and then after it is screwed into place you continue to turn the shaft to expose the blade. Maybe it has something to do with the tangental capabilities but it is very difficult (especially being older) to see underneath and determine blade exposure. Generally I get those blades to last a long time, not from the cost of a new blade but getting it to be correct after you swap one out.. I don't recall much training on this plotter when I bought it and the blade issue has always sort of annoyed me. Anybody have any tips on removing and re-installing the holder?
 

Pauly

Printrade.com.au
Pretty simple
Remove the holder, remove the blade with the tool so you dont cut yourself.
Slide new one in, drop it in the holder in summa and thread it in till you can see it.
Use a torch to shine a light behind it and stop as you see the tip.

As soon as you see the tip, you then just do test cuts till set properly by raising or lowering the blade.

I also went from a Graphtec to Summa. Graphtec with the tool was great.
 

cornholio

New Member
I only learned " the right Way" to do it, after i sold Summa T for many years (started in 1993 or so ...) and it makes a real difference.
Insert a new blade and let it protrude more, than the vinyl thickness. Tune in the cutting force, unlil you can weed the test cut square and it barely scratches the base. ( Mostly around 40-60g) Then increase the pressure by 20g and turn the blade back until you just barely see scratches in the backing.
This way you can cut at the highest speed, while weeding is a breeze.
Takes some time to get used to, but makes a huge difference in weeding.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

jerry369

New Member
From User Manual:
"To fully benefit from the advantages of the tangential knife, the degree to which the knife extends is very important. The knife depth should not be controlled by the knife pressure, but by the nose piece whose two rollers touch the material"

The procedure for finding the right knife extend is well explained in the user manual "Tangential knife installation"
 

gabagoo

New Member
Thanks guys. I was working with it and then took the holder out and it came out without the blade...now I was in trouble as there is no way to get that blade out from the bottom. I reinserted the holder several times carefully and eventually the magnet grabbed the blade and I could get it out and. Never changing the blade again lol
 

Pauly

Printrade.com.au
I only learned " the right Way" to do it, after i sold Summa T for many years (started in 1993 or so ...) and it makes a real difference.
Insert a new blade and let it protrude more, than the vinyl thickness. Tune in the cutting force, unlil you can weed the test cut square and it barely scratches the base. ( Mostly around 40-60g) Then increase the pressure by 20g and turn the blade back until you just barely see scratches in the backing.
This way you can cut at the highest speed, while weeding is a breeze.
Takes some time to get used to, but makes a huge difference in weeding.
This is not correct. You should never tune the blade by the force. You tune by the depth of the blade.
i use 150g for viny and 300g for thicker vinyl/wall covering. I've probably ran over 500 rolls of vinyl though our S3's.
 

cornholio

New Member
I am exactly describing the setting by blade protrusion, not force... Just without needless high force... 150g-300g is enough to cut through vinyl plus laminate with flex cut. To get optimal cut quality for small fonts, you better not hammer down with 150g and let the small bearings scratch your vinyl with unneeded high pressure.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

Pauly

Printrade.com.au
I am exactly describing the setting by blade protrusion, not force... Just without needless high force... 150g-300g is enough to cut through vinyl plus laminate with flex cut. To get optimal cut quality for small fonts, you better not hammer down with 150g and let the small bearings scratch your vinyl with unneeded high pressure.

Yes. My settings are for what we do. Print & Cut not super detailed letters. but we have no issues running the higher force.
 

2ny

New Member
Thanks guys. I was working with it and then took the holder out and it came out without the blade...now I was in trouble as there is no way to get that blade out from the bottom. I reinserted the holder several times carefully and eventually the magnet grabbed the blade and I could get it out and. Never changing the blade again lol
The blade is supposed to sit firmly in the holder, and not be loose like that. You have to use the round white plastic tool to press the knife into the holder when you change the blade.

When it comes to adjusting the knife, it is hard to see the tip protruding from the holder yes, but with good light it works ok. You have to tune in the blade by doing several cut tests anyway.
I use 90gr. pressure for our vinyl, and I do the tests with this pressure and adjust the depth of the knife until it is just not enough to weed without pulling on the corners of the test rectangel.
Then I increase the depth with 5-10 degrees until the test cut weeds ok, and I can see the cut pattern on the backing.
I suppose you could use a caliper to measure the height of the screw when you know it is proberly adjustet, and use that between changes? At least that would give you a fair startingpoint each time.

Best regards
Tony
 
Top