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Tips on installing post in concrete
- Thread starter 704signs
- Start date
tsgstl
New Member
I have used a small jackhammer (2'-3') not sure the correct name, electric and I borrow it. It goes through blacktop like butter. Rock and concrete take more time. Then I clear out the hole and use quickcrete. I hate doing it though, it always takes more time than I budget with unexpected problems and busted knuckles. I hope someone smarter than me has a better way for the both of us ha
Mosh
New Member
I dig the holes 40" deep (frost line here) then sit the posts attached to the sign in the holes. Then I plum and level everything and brace them up with kickers c-clamped to the posts/sign. Then pour in bags of concrete and add A LITTLE water. Then take a pole (end of shovel works) and tamp and mix the water and concrete. Don't add too much water, the ground water will be enought to set the concrete. All the time check the plumb and level of the sign. Let sit a day and you are done. Tip: don't put the concrete all the way to the top on the holes, that way you can cover it up with dirt.
Most times 1 1/2 bags of quik-crete per hole is good.
Hope this helped. This is for signs up to 48"x96" BTW....bigger than that takes more work.
As far as digging holes I use a 8" auger on my tractor, but any hand auger would work too.
Most times 1 1/2 bags of quik-crete per hole is good.
Hope this helped. This is for signs up to 48"x96" BTW....bigger than that takes more work.
As far as digging holes I use a 8" auger on my tractor, but any hand auger would work too.
Ragin Cajun
New Member
I notice you are really confident in yourself and you really like to share.
I am just getting into the sign business. I private messaged several guys asking a few questions with no help...not even a response.
I guess they are keeping quiet not wanting to share a word.
I have been a photographer owning a studio for over 26 years.
I open my studio doors to everyone...I hired the best photographers in the US to come teach a 3 day class. I let even the local guys come...up to 50 photographers.
I have never had fear of helping anyone.
Thanks for all you do!
Ted
We do the same thing pretty much.. but by hand with a post-hole digger. And we don't add water, just tap down the quikcrete to get the air out. Also, be careful when you open up those bags, that stuff is powdery and not nice to inhale!
ChicagoGraphics
New Member
Are you using 4x4 post or the green U-channel post?
Moze
Active Member
If you only have a couple of holes a digging bar and sharp shooter work pretty well. Since you're dealing with clay in Charlotte, if you're digging any more than a couple of holes, you may want to look into renting a tow-behind auger from Home Depot or similar. They make digging in clay and hard-pack a whole lot more bearable.
Also, a good rule of thumb is the hole should be three times the width of the support and the depth should be 1/3 the height of the sign. So a 4" post for example should be set in a 12" diameter pier. A sign that is 9' OAH should have approximately 3' of support below grade. And as Mosh said, you have to take into account the frost line. In your area it's only 10" I believe, so you'll be fine since most posts get set a minimum of 16" - 18".
I also bring one 5-gallon bucket of water per hole. It's more than enough, but it serves double duty as a way to remove the dirt from the hole from the site (assuming there's nowhere to dispose of it on site). I use Quikrete...once the post is in the hole, I dump in some Quikrete and some water from the 5-gallon bucket and mix it using a 4' length of rebar. By the time I've cleaned the tools and work area up, the Quikrete has set up enough to do a final check for plumb and level and make any needed adjustments.
Moze
Active Member
Edit: Now that I re-read your post, it sounds like you're talking about creating a hole in existing concrete to set a post into. If that's the case, the best method is to rent a core drill, drill your core, and then remove the required amount of dirt below the concrete. You can also use a rotary hammer to drill perimeter holes to achieve the desired hole diameter and then chisel that portion out, but that's a bit more work.
signage
New Member
What is this sharp shooter you are taking about? Maybe a track spade?
Pat Whatley
New Member
I gave up killing myself to make holes. If I need a hole in concrete or asphalt now I just call a local concrete cutting company. They've got the equipment and make perfect holes, all I have to do is mark where I want them.
Place your post in and pour PRE-MIXED concrete into the hole (not dry mix) until it's level. Smooth it out with a trowel and you're good to go. My holes are usually only inches larger than the post so there's very little smoothing to do and you'll have a nice clean look.
I've also seen them done with metal plates that you stick the posts through before installing them. Install the posts, let the concrete set up, then the plates can be slid down flush with the surface covering where the hole was. I'd assume they were siliconed into place. I've seen them where the place was just a metal disk and some that were a couple of inches thick adding a slight decorative touch.
Place your post in and pour PRE-MIXED concrete into the hole (not dry mix) until it's level. Smooth it out with a trowel and you're good to go. My holes are usually only inches larger than the post so there's very little smoothing to do and you'll have a nice clean look.
I've also seen them done with metal plates that you stick the posts through before installing them. Install the posts, let the concrete set up, then the plates can be slid down flush with the surface covering where the hole was. I'd assume they were siliconed into place. I've seen them where the place was just a metal disk and some that were a couple of inches thick adding a slight decorative touch.
signage
New Member
a narrow shovel for trenching or most narrow digging jobs
DizzyMarkus
New Member
http://sonotube.com/
What we have always used in the building trades :0) There are different sizes etc -- dunno how to get them in existing tho
Markus
What we have always used in the building trades :0) There are different sizes etc -- dunno how to get them in existing tho
Markus
signage
New Member
If this is what you are talking about the correct name is track spade or more recently known as drain spades.
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Moze
Active Member
...or sharp shooter, tile spade, hot shot, Bill Dookie, the list goes on...
There are a ton of "correct" names for it.
