I have a 7’ x 9’ one colour logo (Semi circle) going on a transport trailer both sides, tons of rivets. I only have a few days to get it ready to install. Should I print chocolate brown on white or cut out in chocolate brown cast vinyl? The trailer is white with silver rivets pretty sure. The logo is maybe 2/3 brown and the rest is white. It is an easy logo to cut when going on white as that is the logos background. Only me installing and rivets are difficult. What is easier? I have a 30” printer so I am looking at 4 strips regardless. Thanks.
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
To Print or Cut?
- Thread starter kroger
- Start date
iPrintStuff
Prints stuff
Honestly it comes down to what material you’re using.
In an ideal world where both materials have the same specs, the cut vinyl will last longer vs printed vinyl so On a single colour job, I’d go for the cut vinyl. (If you have it in stock)
In an ideal world where both materials have the same specs, the cut vinyl will last longer vs printed vinyl so On a single colour job, I’d go for the cut vinyl. (If you have it in stock)
rjssigns
Active Member
Cut vinyl. Work to the rivets and leave them tented. Once all vinyl is down go back and shrink rivets with a torch, squeegee then rivet brush(the really stiff one from 3M) Used to do a lot of trailers way back when and that was our method.
We had a per rivet up charge on the quote too.
We had a per rivet up charge on the quote too.
Ugh. I Had to decide quick before I got responses and ended up printing thinking that is what most would do. Avery mai 1005. I wish I went the vinyl route now. Any suggestions on installing 4 panels? What was suggested above....tenting? I put a bit smaller logo on a covered trailer with rivets and it was awful!!
citysignshop
New Member
After losing money doing a few trucks with domed rivets ( when we expected the flatter ones) we started to suggest mounting something like .060" white enameled aluminum ( same as the trailer sides essentially) after we had applied the graphics flat on a table in the shop. They took the panels and just pop-rivetted onto the sides. Bonus,.... they could remove and put on a new truck. One downside, this doesn't work over curves, back doors, etc.....only practice, and a healthy vocabulary helps to deal with rivets!
Avery & Rob Ivers say:
"Tenting around rivets can be eliminated with an air release tool, heat source and rivet brush OR by pressing the top of the rivet head down, forcing air away from the rivet and into the flat area surrounding the rivet head. Secure the film around the rivet head by using a heat source and working the film in a circular counter clockwise motion back towards the base of the rivet head
https://graphics.averydennison.com..../en/Instructional-Bulletins/Avery-IB-1.15.pdf
Good luck!
"Tenting around rivets can be eliminated with an air release tool, heat source and rivet brush OR by pressing the top of the rivet head down, forcing air away from the rivet and into the flat area surrounding the rivet head. Secure the film around the rivet head by using a heat source and working the film in a circular counter clockwise motion back towards the base of the rivet head
https://graphics.averydennison.com..../en/Instructional-Bulletins/Avery-IB-1.15.pdf
Good luck!
The Rivet brush in this application is a throwback to the stone ages,
Roller Pro is the way to go.
At first I thought the YouTube videos were staged, and then I saw a crew using them.
It just so happened that I was working on Hyundai Trailers that day.
These trailers use double bucked rivets. they are the worst scenario for graphics
and will easily slice through the vinyl at application when brushing.
With the roller pro you heat throw some heat on about a 30" row of rivets, roll it one time and done. If touch up is needed repeat and Done.
These things are expensive at around $80 each. and the massive savings in time
pays for it on the first job
You should have NO Problems installing 1005 Avery on a trailer, especially with standard button head rivets. You squeegee it down and pretend there is no rivets.
Then touch up loose edges around the rivets prior to removing the transfer tape.
And you put that 'ish down dry.
I have been making and installing Graphics for 29 years now and have performed installations on tens of thousands of trucks.
The Arthritis in my fingers is awful and I need both knees replaced. (my reward)
BTW 10 years later when those graphics need to come off Avery is the worst.
USE 3m 180 c series
And for what its worth to Everybody reading this.
3m MC 180 spot vinyl starts breaking at the 6 - 7 year post installation.
3m IJ 180c with 8519 Luster Lam is still solid with NO Breaks at 12 years.
Also the HP Latex Inks with the 3m media qualifies for the 7 year MCS Warranty.
And there is less than 7% fade after 10 years.
It also removes beautifully after 10 - 12 years.
3m SC 50 series Intermediate Spot Vinyl, out last the High Pro vinyl in the same application.
If you are going to do a fleet then you need to start working with 54" media.
60" is just too wide and awkward to deal with in the shop and at installation.
the 54" trims down to 52.5" is is just right.
My installers love it.
Cheers
PS. I do not recommend 3650. its a pain in the donkey to remove.
Requires chemical and hot steam to cut it off
mkmie
Lost Soul
Are you saying the 8519 Luster outlasts 8518 Gloss?
Baz
New Member
I would either get a cast wrap brown vinyl or print it on wrap vinyl then laminate and cut (i use Avery 1105 with 1360 lam).
Air release is important for this. You don't want to mess around with the rivets and have other parts stick and create bubbles.
After that a torch and Role-Pro is the way to go.
Leave channels where the rivets are and heat/roll over.
It's the quickest way.
Air release is important for this. You don't want to mess around with the rivets and have other parts stick and create bubbles.
After that a torch and Role-Pro is the way to go.
Leave channels where the rivets are and heat/roll over.
It's the quickest way.
The good thing is I don’t have transfer tape on. It is just 4 straight panels 28” x 78” x2. Thanks for all the responses!
It went better than I thought it would. Took a bit of advice from all of you. Putting it on dry, tenting the rivets and Also trying to ignore the rivets worked best. Also a pin hole under the rivets was necessary too. Where I went Wrong on the last trailer I did was applying it wet.
A few messy rivets but its viewed from a distance! Thanks everyone!
A few messy rivets but its viewed from a distance! Thanks everyone!
No
you're not supposed to wet apply air release vinyl. The tiny holes trap in the water and prevent the vinyl from adhering.... Unless it was a very warm day and the water evaporated quickly, you may get a bunch of lifting in a few days.
not to scare you. But that trailer will likely fail
you're not supposed to wet apply air release vinyl. The tiny holes trap in the water and prevent the vinyl from adhering.... Unless it was a very warm day and the water evaporated quickly, you may get a bunch of lifting in a few days.If working outside, and especially during July-Mid Sept months the heat off the side of the trailers can train wreck your day in an instant.
Trans Tape is your insurance. If you are indoors then no trans tape will be needed.
On a hot day you can stretch the prints just from removing the liner.
For commercial applications use the Luster Lam.
Here is why.
A car is barreling down the road and the driver is texting, crashes into the side
of a Municipal transit bus Bart, Cart, Marta etc etc.
Driver is clearly at fault. Drivers Lawyer discovers Glossy Laminate on the bus wrap.
"Driver was momentarily blinded by the glare of sun bouncing off the side of the bus."
Yeah driver still has to pay the ticket/fine but his Lawyer just cleaned up in a settlement.
This 'ish really happened in Atlanta and other Cities.
Currently in Atlanta we see a lot of Matte laminate on the bus wraps.
Cheers
Seems dumb to me. What about all the reflective on police cars and ambulances?
Or paint on vehicles? Cars are inherently shiny. Or at night with people and their heads lights... Or the million traffic signs that reflect light.
I'm not doubting you that it happened. Just that it's such a stupid excuse and should have been thrown out... And in any sane court system it would be.
That’s exactly what happened. Now I understand why. I was indoors but it was quite warm out.