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UV flatbed printing on wood substrate

ChiknNutz

New Member
Anyone using a UV flatbed to print directly onto wood? I currently make wood signs from reclaimed wood (typically cedar decking or fencing). I then make a paint mask and spray paint the text or graphics. This is fine for simple things, but obviously not the best approach for anything more than a couple of colors.

I have seen some places that do exactly what I am asking with photos and such, but am also looking for some more details if anyone on here is doing the same or at least knows the process. What are some of the pitfalls of this approach? How flat of a surface does it need to be to produce a good image? Meaning, since this is reclaimed wood, it isn't always dead flat even though I do run it thru my drum sander. There are imperfections such as nail holes, dings, scrapes etc, but this is what adds to the charm of the finished product so these elements must be retained. As such, how does the printing process react to these imperfections? How close to the substrate does the head need to be? Years ago I ran a Roland SP-540V and so am quite familiar with the printing process, just not UV flatbed printing. With a flatbed, is it feasible to print multiple pieces at a time? I am thinking this may be difficult to get each sign blank to be perfectly registered to each other. Thanks for any feedback offered.
 

artbot

New Member
with my flatbed, head height is touchy. usually 1.5mm is as high as i like to go to retain near perfect image. you can still print in the 2-4mm range (image gets a bit soft) passed that immediate insane garbage... like your
printer is printing whispy fog trails. if you want to do several at once, it just requires a jig. your parts will need to exactly the same. then you just work within a "digital" jig on your computer.
 

TimToad

Active Member
As stated by artbot, head height is a critical consideration on most if not all flatbeds. Ours has a sensor in it about 8" up and in at a 45 degree angle from the basepoint. When we load our material, the sensor comes down and makes slight contact with that point.

Our head height tolerance is about 1/100", so we don't have much margin for error.

If the highest spot was placed under the sensor point or if we trick it by putting a jig thick enough to accommodate what we think is the highest point in the pieces, we can don't sweat bullets worrying about headstrikes. Even with the discount on replacement heads our extended service contract affords us, we're talking $2,500 per head on a 8 head system in the event of damaging one.

I'm thinking with the rustic nature of what you're working with, a slightly fuzzy line here and there probably isn't that awful.
 

ChiknNutz

New Member
I think 1.5-4 mm (.06-.16")would be acceptable but .01" seems pretty sketchy for this stuff. Attached is an example of what I am talking about.
 

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ChiknNutz

New Member
Hey artbot, what printer do you have? I need something will do at least 36" x 36", with 48" x 48" better and of course 4x8 ultimately, but probably not necessary at this point.
 

artbot

New Member
i have a super old H700. it's a Meitu rebranded later as an EFI. looking to get a new flatbed, a R180 style epson hybrid (still built by Meitu but licensed all over China) like this one | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD9T7U31UI8

also keep in mind that solvent ink prints to CAB lacquer. you don't need UV if it's predominantly wood product. if 36x36 is the main size, get one of the cheap epson
solvent conversions and be done with it. as for vacuum, it will never "hold" down the wood to be flat. you'll need to get a very flat substrate and reverse screw it from the back
to take any deviation out of the part. xtr has been around for a long time and has probably made thousands of these mutoh based flatbeds. http://xtr-printer.com/html/Advertisingprinter_1441_1882.html | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqII2LNazOo






 

ChrisN

New Member
I have printed plaques made of old barn boards painted white, and they were so warped there was over 1/4" height difference between the highest and lowest spots. I have a CET flatbed, which can automatically measure the height of the substrate. What I did was move the board around on the table so the height measuring foot hit the highest point on the board. I then positioned the board for printing, and printed uni-directionally. I didn't even have the vacuum on, since it wouldn't have helped anything. The text got a bit fuzzy in the lowest spots due to the distance of the heads off the substrate, but it was good considering what it was being printed on.
 

Nicky Zhou

PrintLinks
Hi Artbot.

you should check the web: www.xenons.cn. The R180 was coming from that company. Not built by MT, MT just trade that products..

i have a super old H700. it's a Meitu rebranded later as an EFI. looking to get a new flatbed, a R180 style epson hybrid (still built by Meitu but licensed all over China) like this one | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD9T7U31UI8

also keep in mind that solvent ink prints to CAB lacquer. you don't need UV if it's predominantly wood product. if 36x36 is the main size, get one of the cheap epson
solvent conversions and be done with it. as for vacuum, it will never "hold" down the wood to be flat. you'll need to get a very flat substrate and reverse screw it from the back
to take any deviation out of the part. xtr has been around for a long time and has probably made thousands of these mutoh based flatbeds. http://xtr-printer.com/html/Advertisingprinter_1441_1882.html | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqII2LNazOo






 

rubo

New Member
...also keep in mind that solvent ink prints to CAB lacquer. you don't need UV if it's predominantly wood product. if 36x36 is the main size, get one of the cheap epson solvent conversions and be done with it...

so true...you don't even need a flatbed - in many cases. I print "wood products" all day everyday on Epson 9800 - waterbased inks R2R printer. I print on veneer, then mount it on a substrate - whatever it may be - plywood, or whatnot. No worries about warped boards, headstrikes, board weight, screws, vacuum etc...; choice of textures to work with:

attachment.php
 

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artbot

New Member
@Nicky
thanks for the heads up, the chassis and hull looked very much like the rest of the MT line. Perhaps all of the MT line is Xenon?
 

artbot

New Member
rubo's right. veneer and also .020 petg easily fits through a standard solvent printer. solvent inks print beautifully onto clear acrylic lacquer finish. and solvent inks print much nicer with high head height print gap than
uv inks.

all these projects were done with an old Mimaki JV3.
 

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artbot

New Member
favorite clear of all time Sherwin Williams, pre-cat laquer, dull rubbed effect. as for waterbased? lots of pro options but if you want your product to be top notch it will take a lot more talent and a much nicer
gun with waterbased.
 

ChiknNutz

New Member
Regarding a nice WB finish, I have been using PPG Break-Through and I love the stuff. Doesn't dry quite as fast as lacquer, but much better than any other WB finish I've tried. I prefer the satin finish and it is both indoor/outdoor durable.
 

Nicky Zhou

PrintLinks
Artbot. Part of them from Xenons, which belongs to YILIJET. But some of MT from other suppliers.

@Nicky
thanks for the heads up, the chassis and hull looked very much like the rest of the MT line. Perhaps all of the MT line is Xenon?
 

Steve Weist

Mimaki UV Flatbed Specialist
Mimaki UV SPECIALIST

Anyone using a UV flatbed to print directly onto wood? I currently make wood signs from reclaimed wood (typically cedar decking or fencing). I then make a paint mask and spray paint the text or graphics. This is fine for simple things, but obviously not the best approach for anything more than a couple of colors.

I have seen some places that do exactly what I am asking with photos and such, but am also looking for some more details if anyone on here is doing the same or at least knows the process. What are some of the pitfalls of this approach? How flat of a surface does it need to be to produce a good image? Meaning, since this is reclaimed wood, it isn't always dead flat even though I do run it thru my drum sander. There are imperfections such as nail holes, dings, scrapes etc, but this is what adds to the charm of the finished product so these elements must be retained. As such, how does the printing process react to these imperfections? How close to the substrate does the head need to be? Years ago I ran a Roland SP-540V and so am quite familiar with the printing process, just not UV flatbed printing. With a flatbed, is it feasible to print multiple pieces at a time? I am thinking this may be difficult to get each sign blank to be perfectly registered to each other. Thanks for any feedback offered.

I have installed a fleet of mimaki flatbeds that print on wood 24 hrs a day. I would be happy to print samples for you if you want. The Mimaki jfx series flatbeds has staggered heads for printing white and CMYK on the same pass.
Let me know if I can help. We have demo centers all over the USA for this type of testing.

Steve Weist
615-812-3001
 
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