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UV Lamp Output Test Strips

Grizzly

It’s all about your print!
We have 3 UV flatbeds and a UV coater and I was wondering if there is a way to test the output of the UV Lamps.

I've heard of the UV Power Puck, but it seems a little expensive at $4500.
It also seems it would be a little hard to use on a table with the flatbed since it is quite thick, and I would have to have my head height higher than I like.

I've also heard about some UV strips that you can stick to a substrate and based on the yellow color it turns, determines the UV lamp output.
Does anyone have a source for something that I can use for UV Lamp testing?
Thanks
Jeremy
 

uvgerard

New Member
UV intensity test strips

We are in the UV lamp manufacturing business and used to offer UV intensity strips for sale. To have any accurate information you have to keep detailed records to compare exposure of one lamp at a time. In other words when the lamp is new you need to use a strip to measure relative UV output. Over time you would run additional strips at the exact same distance and speed to get a relative drop off of your one lamp. If you had a 2-lamp system you would have to do this twice (one for each lamp).

I found this tedious and not worth the amount of time invested. I think you can locate a far less expensive detector of UV output. If you need to qualify a dosage to meet a certain client requirement this is far more difficult and expensive.

UV curing is dependent on many factors including ink chemistry, ink color, laydown, UV intensity and substrate. You can have an ink that is actually cured but does not adhere to the substrate. Just ask anyone working with corrugated plastic.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
We basically know the life of one of our lamps is about 500 hours. We also know that around 250 to 300 hours they tend to start losing their effectiveness. Is this true or not, I don't know, but we've been trading ours in around 400 to 450 hours and notice a difference every time. Our table has a timer which records time, but not 1/2 lamp vs. full lamp, so it's not 100% accurate. We also have been ordering a higher intensity lamp which aids in our printing to Cor-X as mentioned by the previous poster.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Do you gradually have to increase the temp up until that point? Do you find the prints don't adhere as well or are still tacky once the bulbs start to get old?

Ours are still fairly new at under 150 hours each but eventually we'll have to figure out the process for switching them out. To be honest I'm not really sure what we're looking for in terms of increasing the lamps....we just run them at the lowest setting on everything for now.


Jeremy, in the shop, would be able to answer that better, but we pretty much run them near full blast regardless. The only thing we've noticed is the blues will stop drying faster than any other color, giving you the felling, there's a problem with the cyan ink, since all the other colors are performing fine. We generally just change out both bulbs, save them with how many hours are on them, left & right and put them in a safe spot, just in case something happens down the road and we need a bulb faster than our supplier can get it to us. There's always some life left in them, just not enough for a few days worth of pure blue printing.
 

uvgerard

New Member
UV inkjet lamp life

Jeremy, in the shop, would be able to answer that better, but we pretty much run them near full blast regardless. The only thing we've noticed is the blues will stop drying faster than any other color, giving you the felling, there's a problem with the cyan ink, since all the other colors are performing fine. We generally just change out both bulbs, save them with how many hours are on them, left & right and put them in a safe spot, just in case something happens down the road and we need a bulb faster than our supplier can get it to us. There's always some life left in them, just not enough for a few days worth of pure blue printing.

In the case of digital inkjet lamps, life depends on many factors including number of starts, thermal operating conditions, power rating and proper handling.
Most inkjet printers estimate UV lamp life around 500 hours (idol time plus print time). To reach this goal they suggest operating the lamps at lower power for the first 300 hours and gradually increasing power as the lamp ages. Simply defined, it is the hours the lamp produces enough UV energy to properly cure the ink within the available exposure time.

Ink color and opacity have much to do with ability to cure. Deep blue or heavy laydown black inks almost always require full power operation. If adhesion problems are UV intensity related, then increasing lamp power will increase the ink’s bond with the substrate. This is especially true when printing more than one coat. In this case the first printed layer must be fully cured before subsequent coats are applied. Adjust combination of lamp power and print speed. In a perfect world, ink and media bond is improved at high lamp power and slow print speed. Consider uni-directional printing over bi-directional. Since this is not a perfect world, this combination produces the highest amount of heat perhaps adversely affecting (warping) the substrate. Some printers offer an option of UV exposure without printing. This allows for lower temperature multiple exposures.

To extend lamp life clean reflectors, quartz plates and air filters regularly. Most ultraviolet lamps are air cooled hence they must live with whatever air is provided. Lamps must be kept clean. All types of dust, powder, grease, smoke and misting ink must be cleaned from lamp. Often shop contaminants will blow over the lamp sticking to the quartz literally baking onto the surface. This reduces UV energy and may cause bulb overheating. The same holds true with reflectors, and quartz plates (if used). Use a lint free cloth with Windex or Simple Green to clean. Don’t waste your money on special UV lamp cleaners as they have dubious value! If solvents are permitted, use isopropyl alcohol. For extreme cases use a mild abrasive such as Soft Scrub to clean the UV lamp. Be sure to rinse any residue off the glass before reinstalling lamp. Consider replacing quartz filter plate (available from the OEM or TCS Technologies) to maximize UV performance.

To reduce gloss banding and maintain equal UV dosage when printing bidirectionally, it is recommended that both UV lamps be replaced at the same time.

Lastly do not overlook shutter operation. Most inkjet dryers incorporate shutters that close when lamp is not printing. Make absolutely sure the lamp assembly shutters are opening completely. On more than one occasion we have seen screws come loose preventing the shutter from opening.

The key to extending lamp life is having a high output lamp mounted in a clean fully operating UV system.
 

Grizzly

It’s all about your print!
Lamp Life

Thanks everyone for the inputs.
UVgerard: Thank you for you input from a manufacture standpoint. What UV detector would you suggest besides the puck? Also, I do regularly clean the filters, glass, and housing.

500 hrs is the recommended life for our Oce Arizona 660XT. I hope I get more than that out of them since that is pretty low. We vary between using medium and high and rarely use low power.

We have Jetis wich actually have intensity sliders for each lamp from 0-100 in increments of 5.
2000 hrs is the recommend life of our UV bulvs for the Jeti 3150 at 50/50. That being said, I put almost 6000 hrs on those UV bulbs and never saw any type of adhesion changes. We ran almost everything at 40/60 intensity (Trailing/Leading) the entire time. They never stopped curing ink and it wasn't until they just wouldn't turn on that I replaced them. They were definitely worn out since they were bulging.

Same recommendation on the bulbs in our Jeti 1224 HDC is 2000 hrs at 50% intensity. I put 3000 hrs on our UV bulbs on our Jeti 1224 HDC before I changed them. It seemed I was getting less adhesion and since I run them about 70/70 intensity I figured I probably really was getting less adhesion. I did a print test and adhesion test with the old bulbs and changed to the new runs and ran the same test. Not even an ounce of noticeable difference. Which makes me wonder if they were bad at all. I'm at the 3000 hrs point again and was hoping I could get a solid "your lamps are not as good as they were new" output from some kind of device reading the actual output before I change them again just because manufacture recommends changing them. (Which is usually premature since they want to sell their product.)

Thanks
Jeremy
 

Grizzly

It’s all about your print!
Post Cure Banding

Sorry I don't mean to hi-jack your thread but I'm curious about this. We just recently installed our Oce 318gl and do occasionally notice some slight post cure banding when printing in production mode. Does increasing to medium/high seem to help with this? And setting the trailing/leading lamps differently helps even more so?

It has never been bad enough to warrant reprinting and we haven't had any complaints but I'd like to wrap my head around why this happens and how to correct it. Again, I'm new to this UV printing and haven't had the chance to play with settings since we went directly from training to non-stop production, and are just catching up now.

Thanks.

I'm not sure what you mean by post cure banding but I'm guessing its the lawn mower effect where they have different sheens? I don't see that running production mode but I do see it on express mode on styrene even with the lamps at high. I would run at medium and see if it changes. You can also play with trailing/leading. I do see the issue on our AGFA 1224 HDC at the first and start of print where the middle looks more consistent. That is because that ink gets an even amount of time between lay down and lead cure, compared to the edges. The carriage also runs twice as fast as the Oce so that could be the issue.
 

uvgerard

New Member
UV lamp life

I want to address why Gandinnovation Jeti 1224 and 3150 lamps last so long. It boils down to wall loading. Simply put wall loading is the amount of power per unit area. Mathematically Q=Pw/S where Q is wall loading, Pw is input power of lamp expressed in watts and S is the surface area of the discharge tube. The higher the wall loading the shorter the lamp life.

Gandinnovation Jeti lamps are constructed from larger diameter quartz—22 mm. The vast majority of inkjet lamps are much smaller diameter—15 mm. For a given wattage the wall loading is orders of magnitude higher on the 15 mm lamps. The strain on the lamp envelope is much lower on the Jeti lamps hence they will last longer on average.

One might ask why are not all inkjet lamps made from 22 mm quartz? Well we do not live in a perfect world. The amount of infrared generated by the lamp is directly related to its surface area. A smaller diameter bulb increases UV output; more importantly, emits significantly less infrared energy. Less heat makes for a happier printer.
 

themovierad

“Never mistake activity for achievement.”
Microcures

I got mine from a company in southern california - Doctor UV - they actually let me borrow one for a few days...:Big Laugh


We have 3 UV flatbeds and a UV coater and I was wondering if there is a way to test the output of the UV Lamps.

I've heard of the UV Power Puck, but it seems a little expensive at $4500.
It also seems it would be a little hard to use on a table with the flatbed since it is quite thick, and I would have to have my head height higher than I like.

I've also heard about some UV strips that you can stick to a substrate and based on the yellow color it turns, determines the UV lamp output.
Does anyone have a source for something that I can use for UV Lamp testing?
Thanks
Jeremy
 
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